The creek is drowning you guys.

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wrote:

We were tourists, and loved the restaurants, so I was NOT complaining, just observing.
--
Best regards
Han
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On 6/22/12 6:54 AM, Swingman wrote:

Mine was already muted.... I made the mistake of un-muting it.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 20:37:30 -0700, Larry Jaques

Nature abhors a horizontal space.
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On 6/20/12 10:18 PM, Swingman wrote:

I'm doing that right now.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Maybe down the road a bit. I am not without project ideas.
FWIW, this evening I:
-- turned it upside down and beveled the 4 feet with a block plane (thanks tiredofspam).
-- added the 16 additional screws suggested by Swingman, countersunk.
-- added a .09" shim under one end of the rear top board to improve it's fit--it's "close enough to perfect" at both ends (thanks Alabama). I created it from a paint mixing stick and a sheet of 80 grit. And Yes, the batteries in the Harbor Freight digital calipers DO always seem to go dead on the shelf. I still used it to estimate I needed .1" reading from its rule. I used the micrometer Doug Miller sold me to measure the .09".
--I used WD-40 to clean all the gunk off the new vise my wife bought for Christams about 5 years ago. I promptly got quite sick (at that time) hand-sanding the piece of plywood I was going to put it on. I did breathe a little of the dust. But as I've mentioned here before, I've had issues just being in the same room with fresh plywood/particle board.
I'm wondering whether I might do okay with a couple of small pieces of something along the lines of Baltic Birch style plywood to mount above and below the bench for the vise (hoping that it outgasses less or slower than cheaper plywood)? If you knew how sick I got/get you'd understand my trepidation. It's a "scary shortness of breath" sick. But knowing the source (s) makes it better than when you don't know...and I already endured that. Last time I checked, the Formaldehyde-free plywood that Home Depot sells was only "countertop-grade" stuff, and I haven't tried it yet. I see little alternative but to experiment a little. The Baltic Birch stuff would be handy for jigs too... Anyone have a favorite homemade-plywood recipe?
Is counter-grade stuff good enough for my vise application (reviews say it's got gaps in it...)? Other F-Free substitutes? To me, my sense of well-being is more important than stability.
Cheers, Bill
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Bill wrote:

I spent a couple of (more) hours looking into plywood again tonight. Enough. I have an old lengh of Ash. I think I'll try a couple of pieces of that where I would have used the plywood, unless someone tells me it's a crappy idea. :) Ash (White) scores 1320 on the Janka Hardness Scale. I couldn't locate a Janka rating for any plywood to use for the sake of comparison. I planned to get some Yellow Poplar to put in my vise jaws, but perhaps two halves of a short length of 2by4 would work just as well. My intuition says that may be better for working with Yellow Poplar (as long as it will hold it)--and that's something I'd like to do.
Bill
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Wood won't be as strong as plywood, at least from the side. The idea of the plywood is to keep the legs square. It's the same idea as 1/4" ply on the back of a bookcase, except that it has to take a load, as well.
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Well Bill you might try a quality respirator (for the formaldehyde) , and a fan together (for dust and form..) . See if you can get a small squirrel cage fan... Then make an enclosure for a high quality filter to catch the dust. Re-direct the output outside using hoses.. That respirator and fan should solve your problem unless you have a beard.
I'll post a picture of a sanding unit I made a long time ago shortly.
I promptly got quite sick (at that time)

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"Bill" wrote:

Stay with birch for jigs which comes in 60" x 60" sheets.
Russian uses interior glue and isn't worth a hoot for laser cutting.
Finnish uses exterior glue.
Don't know what the other Eastern European mfg's use (Polish, Romanian, etc).
Check with a supplier which won't be Home Depot.
Lew
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Swingman wrote:

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Swingman wrote:

Congratulations Swingman! I was just notified by email that your workbench design made the "Daily Top 3 (Projects)" at lumberjocks.com.
They (and I) hope that their new 'Daily Top 3' badge on my project page will make you smile.
It will also get a shoutout on Facebook and their Twitter stream.
-- LumberJocks http://lumberjocks.com /
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On 6/22/2012 8:35 PM, Bill wrote:

Congratulations, Bill ... the credit is entirely yours. We all stand on the shoulders of those who came before when we collaborate on solutions that work for our individual needs.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
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As a preventive 'fix', the base depth can be increased by making an upside-down T that ties front and rear legs together at floor, but extends past legs. Consider torque. Join at sides. See pictures at: http://woodworkbenches.net/choosing-the-best-workbench-designs / and http://16kwoodworkingplans.com/basic-woodwork-project-the-workbench/ -J
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I always use the mitre saw. I don't cut straight freehand.
-------------- "Bill" wrote in message
I had to take a day or two off. I went back to the store for a couple more 2by4s today. I am basically back to where I was at my last photo session--except I'm sporting a 24-tooth blade now. I've made a couple of "perfect" cuts with the speed square, but they are in the minority. I check my results with a combination square. I think one of my best cuts occurred when I had lots of "push" behind the saw and barely looked at the saw guide. I hope your projects are going well!
Bill
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Eric wrote:

Took me a while to figure out you mean a power miter saw! Yes, one of those definitely would have come in handy. I have my dad's old (wooden) miter saw in the garage. :) I believe they still make them.
I do pretty well with a hand saw--in fact, I switched to cutting my 2by4s with one--a 20" saw made by Irwin. I can make more accurate cuts in less time overall than with a CS it seems. I haven't failed to get it right the first time with a hand saw yet. It marked contrast to what I have done this week with a CS! : )

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skills or jigs to sharpen hand saws, that means you end up buying a new saw when the old one gets dull. But they are good for people who are an accident waiting to happen with any kind of power tool. I bought several of the Stanley Fat Max hand saws for folks who should never use power tools. I even have a couple of them myself. If I need to do very much work, I get out the power tools. But if I only need to cut one or two small boards, it is hand saw time. It is just faster and simpler.
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Lee Michaels wrote:

I agree. I find using a handsaw enjoyable work, in moderation!
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"Bill" wrote in message
Lee Michaels wrote:

I agree. I find using a handsaw enjoyable work, in moderation!
== With about 20 years experience, each. with a hand saw and mitre saw I found I have cut myself an infinite amount more times ('mericun ratio) with the hand saw. I can't ever remember cutting myself with the power unit but slipped many times with the hand saw and it jumped over my thumb onto my flesh somewhere. Maybe this is because the power mitre saw scares the hell out of me. Best $179 I ever spent, thrice (Brit ratio).
--
Eric


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On 6/9/2012 2:13 AM, Bill wrote:

Depending upon the make and the model, take care of it. Some of those vintage miter saws are getting to be highly prized.
When doing the smaller trim on a kitchen cabinet, like on the visible end panels with a scribe strip still showing, I much prefer to do the cutting by hand with my old miter box.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
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"Swingman" wrote in message
On 6/9/2012 2:13 AM, Bill wrote:

Depending upon the make and the model, take care of it. Some of those vintage miter saws are getting to be highly prized.
When doing the smaller trim on a kitchen cabinet, like on the visible end panels with a scribe strip still showing, I much prefer to do the cutting by hand with my old miter box.
==== The old mitre box does have an advantage. You can pull out an old hack saw with a fine blade for small trim and very few splits. 80 teeth 10-12" power saws can't compare.
--
Eric


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