I've had better luck at flea markets and garage sales. Most recently, a pristine stanley sweetheart (manuf by Disston) 24" back saw for $10.
I've had better luck at flea markets and garage sales. Most recently, a pristine stanley sweetheart (manuf by Disston) 24" back saw for $10.
an important aspect of this
pull out your nearest 18 point saw and look at the set I can just make it out but to alter or reset or sharpen I'd definitely need magnification
that makes the jobs a lot harder for sure I'll have to rig something up to do this right
Electric Comet wrote in news:mg1ngt$mkb$1 @dont-email.me:
Hardened is the correct word - in fact, I think the process used is called "induction hardening". As far as I know, all mass-production saws are made that way today (i.e. Stanley, Disston, Lenox, etc - anything you'd get at Home Depot or Lowes). The way you tell is to try filing one - a hardened tooth is as hard as a file, so the file won't cut it (or, you could on the makers website, which probably says).
John
snipped-for-privacy@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) wrote in news:9W9Vw.220459$IH4.137234 @fx08.iad:
Likewise - my favorite crosscut saw is a Disston with a cosmetically challenged handle, that came from a flea market. Even with my inexperienced sharpening, it cuts very well. According to the Disston medallion site, it's around a WW1 vintage.
I also have a 24" backsaw like yours, which unfortunately lost it's miterbox a long time ago. One of these days I'll feel up to trying to sharpen it. It's an impressive looking thing compared to a modern backsaw.
John
ok so grinding will work but not filing I have a dremel somewhere
funny thing is I have some cheap turning gouges that are made with softer steel and i find myself using them more than my other HSS gouges
why because i can put a file on them or even emory cloth and keep them sharp so i can keep turning with minor interruption
I have a stanley #100 (from before stanley bought the company that made them) which works quite well with the 24" backsaw.
Perfect for picture framing.
Disstons are great saws, but they seem to be rust magnets. Not to mention they are a gleam in every collectors eye. If you find one labelled "Disston & Son" (no, not "Sons") grab it - they're rare!
Oh, about that propensity to rust. My favorite old saw is an Atkins "Silver Steel" saw. Must be some forerunner of stainless steel, because it's rare to find one with more that one or two little spots of rust. Come to think of it, it's rare to find one, period!
iron that's more pure rusts more easily, also softer approaching %99 it's not usable for tools probably lower than that
Does it have silver?
unscrupulous is the word a collector used for folks like you i agree with them they warned me about this
if you purposefully make a tool look older than it is in order to get more money for it that's wrong and deceptive
Folks like me? Folks that offer definitions? What's unscrupulous about that ?
Not true. Purposefully making something look older than it is to get more m oney is not deceptive unless you also claim/imply that it is older than it is.
Remember what you said that I said "Nope" to:
"if someone's distressing a tool to make it look vintage that's counterfeit ing"
Distressing an object is nothing more than a finishing technique. Granted, if someone distresses an new object and then *advertises* it as vintage/ant ique/circa-1888, then yes, that is unscrupulous. However, the mere distress ing of an object to make it look old is neither counterfeiting nor unscrupu lous. It's nothing more than a finishing technique. That was my point, and the reason for my "Nope".
If I build a new house and finish it a style that makes it look like it was built in the 1800's - including using crackle paint to make it look really old - and then offer it for sale, that is not unscrupulous. However, I try to convince someone that the house was actually built in the 1800's, then I am being unscrupulous. The same goes for tools, furniture, paintings, etc .
You need to separate the finishing technique from the words used when adver tising the object for sale before you can say that the seller is being unsc rupulous. You need to consider the intent of the seller. Many people will pay more money for something with a distressed finish simply because they l ike the way it looks. Go to any crafts show and look at the hundreds of old looking objects that are both not old and not being advertised as old. Not hing unscrupulous going on there.
Here's a perfect example. I've made a number of these for my kids and for t heir friends. I distressed the hash tag to make it look older than it is. T here is absolutely nothing unscrupulous about making that brand new hash ta g look older than it is because I never claimed it was a "vintage hash tag" . It was distressed to make it look older than it is in an attempt to blend an old communication style (the chalkboard) with the new (twitter).
I meant the case where tools are claimed to be vintage or older based upon deceptive practices. The word "vintage" is already misused on ebay, bonanza, ecrater, etc.
not for tools, for furniture it's legit
but deception is the key and if that's the intent it's wrong
...which is the point I've been trying to make all along. Since you now seem to agree with me, I assume you no longer consider me to be unscrupulous.
By the way, distressing can even be "legit" for tools, as long there is no intent to deceive. These tools probably *are* vintage, but if one were to make new tools look old and then display them as art, there would be nothing unscrupulous about it.
Silver steel is an old (or British) name for tool steel, i.e. hardenable high-carbon steel, O1 or A2 are typical.
I consider anyone trying to deceive buyers to be unscrupulous some on ebay do so but may not even realize they are but that still doesn't excuse them from saying they're unsure about the product
there are sellers that will take dark photos on purpose there are sellers that will not show a defect these are bad sellers
there are sellers that do their best to reveal all and provide photos so the buyer can decide they answer questions
i guess that explains the lack of rust
I think I have one will have to look
couple seconds per tooth so let's say it takes 20-30 minutes to sharpen that's not so bad it's hard to find a person that will do good sharpening
this is a good point I need to look at garage sales once in a while also flea markets
not everyone cares or even knows about ebay, bonanza, ecrater, etc.
Thank you for answering a question that was not asked.
Why would you think that? It's high-carbon steel, not stainless.
And FWIW certain grades of Stainless will rust too, especially those that a magnet will stick to.
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