There are "feather" files for that purpose. Easily available, here are
Personally, I would never bother sharpening one. First of all, there are
200+ teeth; secondly, the steel is very hard and it will be a long time
before they need sharpening. I still use (occasionly) one I bought 40 years
ago. I have others too but it is my favorite...missing some teeth near the
heel so I just don't use that part.
Since you mention this, and you also mentioned setting teeth,
be aware that any saw you buy at Harbor Freight, Home Depot,
etc, likely has hardened teeth that you cannot sharpen; nor
can you set them (they'll break off), altho you can reduce
the set as has been suggested.
(I agree with you on the price of "antique" tools, but that's
because most sellers are not knowledgeable, and just copy the
price they see on someone else's website for something that
looks similar. That problem exists for pretty much anything
antique, not just tools).
How do I tell if they are hardened
or is the correct word here tempered
I'd likely break them off trying to alter the set
I did look at prices for completed auctions and the prices are
too high for me.
There are a lot of unsavvy sellers that do those things and worse
maybe unsavvy is generous
Another interesting thing I've seen on ebay is that prices for veritas
things sell very close to new prices and I think I saw one sell for
Auction frenzy syndrome
Hardened is the correct word - in fact, I think the process
used is called "induction hardening". As far as I know, all
mass-production saws are made that way today (i.e. Stanley,
Disston, Lenox, etc - anything you'd get at Home Depot or
Lowes). The way you tell is to try filing one - a hardened
tooth is as hard as a file, so the file won't cut it (or,
you could on the makers website, which probably says).
so grinding will work but not filing
I have a dremel somewhere
funny thing is I have some cheap turning gouges that are made
with softer steel and i find myself using them more than my
other HSS gouges
why because i can put a file on them or even emory cloth
and keep them sharp so i can keep turning with minor interruption
firstname.lastname@example.org (Scott Lurndal) wrote in
Likewise - my favorite crosscut saw is a Disston with a
cosmetically challenged handle, that came from a flea market.
Even with my inexperienced sharpening, it cuts very well.
According to the Disston medallion site, it's around a
I also have a 24" backsaw like yours, which unfortunately
lost it's miterbox a long time ago. One of these days I'll
feel up to trying to sharpen it. It's an impressive looking
thing compared to a modern backsaw.
On Wed, 08 Apr 2015 13:20:05 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Disstons are great saws, but they seem to be rust magnets. Not to
mention they are a gleam in every collectors eye. If you find one
labelled "Disston & Son" (no, not "Sons") grab it - they're rare!
Oh, about that propensity to rust. My favorite old saw is an Atkins
"Silver Steel" saw. Must be some forerunner of stainless steel, because
it's rare to find one with more that one or two little spots of rust.
Come to think of it, it's rare to find one, period!
I have no explanation. I was just pointing out what seemed to be a
deductive statement, made by you, was what I thought you later said was
a question. Using punctuation might have make your comments a bit more
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