Having installed probably close to 100 of these inserts, the correct
size and depth hole to begin with pretty much assures that the insert
will end up in the right direction. The holes are typically much larger
than the rod that will thread into the center of the insert so the rod
extending past the end of the insert, for guiding purposes, will be of
little help. Just use the correct drive tool to begin with and the
matter is handled.
I'll respectfully disagree with this. The slotted kind of
insert in particular have very little lead before the start
of the screw, and it's quite easy to start them crooked.
Depending on how off from straight you are, it's possible
for them to cut threads and seat off line (which will then
make the machine screw you're trying to screw into it bind).
The hex kind usually have a little more lead before the
start of the thread, and tend to start straight without
needing quite as much care, altho there's still a level
of skill to it.
If you use the right driver tool and drill, with the slotted insert, it
is much easier. The trick is to not use a screw driver and instead use
the drill mounted driver. The driver mounted to the drill gives you a
lot of leverage for starting it straight. Here is what you want.
EZLOK makes many different drill driver bits for specific sizes.
FWIW, no pictures here but this vendor lists the proper/appropriate
power drive for the particular insert you are using.
There are 6 different drivers listed for the slotted brass inserts that
While the drivers are a bit pricey but worth it, the insert pricing is
pretty reasonable, given quantity purchased.
I originally mentioned a threaded rod (or bolt) to Greg as a better way of
inserting them rather than using a screwdriver, not as a guide. If one
needs mechanical help in inserting them straight, chuck the rod in a drill
press. Cautionary note: turn the chuck by hand, not power :)
Yes and that is fine but you certainly do not need the threaded rod to
be a guide leading the insertion of the insert. ;~)
And with the proper driver bit a hand drill will work just fine. It is
easy to hold the drill perpendicular to the hole while you let the drill
do the driving work.
On Saturday, April 4, 2015 at 7:22:18 PM UTC-7, Greg Guarino wrote:
It's unusual to use machine threads in wood, because (1) wood moves, and
(2) a little corrosion, sap, wood movement, and age will lock the screw in just like glue.
Looser thread fits are used, I believe, when wood is threaded, than for metal.
Conventionally, tee nuts, barrel nuts, and other metal threaded inserts are
employed, with oversize clearance holes in the wood, and it's always assumed
that takeapart later will be easy.
Field-expedient tee nut substitute: a hexagonal mortise and a hex nut.
Experiment away, though: that's the best way to find new things out.
I use inserts and bolts all the time to attach upper cabinets to lower
I in particular I use these which are relatively inexpensive, and can be
easily driven with the power driver listed beside each insert size.
No, the hex is only about 3/16" deep. At leas with the flange style that
I use. The machine bolts actually start threading more easily when
aligning pieces together as the hex beginning section is slightly larger
than the bolt.
The power driver goes in your drill and fits inside the hex section.
The poser driver is pretty HD. Works much better than expected.
Click on the link to see the driver and the inside of the insert.
Simply predrill the appropriate size hole and then use the power driver
to screw the in insert.
Be sure do order the appropriate driver and while pricey it is easier
drive inserts in with a drill rather than power it in with your wrist.
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