tambour doors. How to?

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New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart from gluing strips onto canvas?
Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
Thanks in advance!
--
Best regards
Han
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Download and display one of those fireplace videos with the cracking wood or scenic places on it and forget covering up the beatiful piece of art.
Get a decent 60" size one for yourself and hide it from her. Your eyes aren't getting any younger. If she buys that go for the 3D also.
New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart from gluing strips onto canvas?
Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
Thanks in advance!
--
Best regards
Han
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What's your objection to the strips on canvas route?
R
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wrote:

Don't have a real reason for liking the interlocking strips better than the glued on canvas route. Just that if I'm going to make doors this big (sorry, Josepi), I want them to work well and look good too (I hope that's correct English, I sometimes get well and good mixed up).
--
Best regards
Han
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Don't forget to allow for all the ventilation these flat panel sets need.
Look at the existing vent holes in the case and match up to them.
I have seen some cool self activated flat panel raising cabinets in the stores but they run about $6K (for up to 80" units) and the cabinet / wood style is not my choice. The lid rises and the set slowly rises up above the cabinet, then lowers and closes the lid when shut off again. Power bars, speaker provisions and the lot all in one package.
Don't have a real reason for liking the interlocking strips better than the glued on canvas route. Just that if I'm going to make doors this big (sorry, Josepi), I want them to work well and look good too (I hope that's correct English, I sometimes get well and good mixed up).
--
Best regards
Han
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Sorry "up to 60" displays."
Don't have a real reason for liking the interlocking strips better than the glued on canvas route. Just that if I'm going to make doors this big (sorry, Josepi), I want them to work well and look good too (I hope that's correct English, I sometimes get well and good mixed up).
--
Best regards
Han
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Excellent point. I'm sure Han is planning on having the TV on when the door is closed so it's not _too_ easy to watch TV. Sheesh.
R
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Now that's funny right there...
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wrote:

I'm planning to get a multiple outlet strip with individual switches, so the TV can be totally off, rather than standby. Same for the Bluray player. DVR will likely stay on (guess why ...)
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Han
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Lemme seeee.... so you can time-shift Oprah? Maury? . . . nyuk, nyuk
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What is Maury? Nyuak isn't Dutch.
:)
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Han
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Han wrote:

"Maury" is Maury Popovich. He has a sleazy daytime TV show and makes Jerry Springer look like Walter Cronkite.
--

dadiOH
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I only watch home or woodworking shows.
<grin>.
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Han
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No wonder you want to cover up the TV...to keep the dust off.
I only watch home or woodworking shows.
<grin>.
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I've never built tambours that big, but there's nothing wrong at all with the canvas and wood construction. The only possible downside would be warping, and that's more a function of wood selection and depth. You could route a recess in the back of a few of the strips and insert reinforcement - fiberglass epoxied in place, but that's probably overkill.
It is possible to have the wood strips interlock with each other on a canvas tambour. Think cove and bead. Clearances are of course an issue, so you'd have to mock it up, and wood strip size would be dependent on the involved radii the tambour would have to follow into it's concealed position.
Where were you planning on storing the tambour when the door is open? The connections in back and the mounting hardware complicates things.
Post a picture of the look you're going for so we can get a clearer idea of what you want.
Oh, and remember not to have the TV on when the door is closed. ;)
R
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Good suggestions, and I will take them into account for the final design. It's really early in the process.

The doors would leave enough space behind the TV for the wires and cables, and ventilation.

Good suggestion. Actually the picture turned out fuzzy and has too many personal stuff in it for posting. Description follows:
Location is at 2 intersecting blind walls (no windows). We now have 2 sideboards along these walls. The TV is on the left-hand sideboard (71x18x29 w/d/h). There is 19" more space along the wall from the intersecting corner to the entrance to stairs to upstairs. The right- hand sideboard will be sacrificed or recycled.
The plan is to move the left-hand sideboard a bit leftwards, so that there will be up room for an up to 19" deep floor to ceiling bookcase on the right side wall (92" from the corner to the dining room "opening").
Then on top of the left-hand sideboard there will be a "bookcase" with a door to the TV, and the rest of the equipment in a part of either bookcase in the corner.
This sideboard is oak-veneered termite puke ("Scandinavian" style) that has lasted 30 years and is still in good shape. It has 3 sliding doors with lots of grandkids' toys that will need to stay there ...
So the idea is to make something oaky ...

Good point <grin>.
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Best regards
Han
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O:
Does your cabinetry or cabinetry ideas allow for pocket doors? I'm considering a built-in at the moment and am at the stage of inventorying concepts, of which there are plenty. If you are are not constrained to wood by the she, there are a number of ways to go across cost levels.
Here is the Google image feed on "cabinet pocket doors":
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=%22cabinet+pocket+doors%22&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw 41&bihP2
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
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Good idea. I thought about it, but the pocket doors would have to fold, since the TV is more than twice as wide as the cabinet will be deep. Needs further research, since it might be easier to make this than sliding tambours.
THANKS!!!
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Han
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Those are also called flipper doors. I don't believe they have anything to do with the porpoise.
Were you thinking of running the tambour vertically or horizontally?
R
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Thanks again. Doors would have to move left to right, not up and down. This will be right on top of a 3-door sideboard with horizontally moving doors.
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Han
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