I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down (seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):
Two versions from Rockler:
And Woodpecker's version:
-- Andy Barss
When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?
If you decide on the metal hold downs, go with the Rocklers that have the thicker rubber pads. Bare metal with mar and dent many woods and the thinner rubber with wear off.
Been there, done it. I used the toggle lever clamps and they do need adjustments. I went cheap and screwed them to small square blocks and screwed those blocks down to the sled where needed. IIRC I only used a pair.
The clamps you are thinking about using Look to probably be a better solution however because none of the clamps actually have a far reach they will need to be repositioned closer/farther from the sled's cutting edge. Wider boards need the clamps farther from the cutting edge and narrower need to be closer.
I would suggest at least 2 rows of t-tracks to allow you more flexibility. I used the square blocks and moved them around on the sled because of that situation
Those things are a pain in the neck. I got a pair about 8-10 years ago. I don't use them any more. I find the toggle clamps much easier.
I recommend toggle clamps. :-)
Personally these have worked fine for me .
I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.
But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good feature, if they won't slip off.
By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of a waney-edged board.
I must be primitive. I just use a couple scraps of wood and some drywall screws and run them right in to the sled.
HAND SAW! If I did that I would end up with a wavier line. ;~) The Festool track saw works great for this.
Roll your own from 6" lengths of scrap 1 x 2. Drill a 1/2" hole in the middle of each. Install over carriage bolts, with wing nuts to tighten. One end of the toggle/cleat/whatever you call it sits over your workpiece. The other end sits on top of a block of scrap, same thickness (or close to same thickness) as your workpiece.
Place a spring over the bolt to lift the toggle if you're doing mass production.
I've replaced the hex nuts on mine with wing nuts for the same reason. Not as slick looking as the knobs, but does the trick.
You're right about the toggle clamps. I made one years ago and it was a PITA moving the clamps around to accommodate varying width boards. Now I just tack a strip of hardboard/masonite to the board with carpet tacks. Carpet tacks have yet to break and leave a piece of steel in the board like brads can. And the hole is wedge shaped and usually heals nicely with a drop of water. Art
these?
Yeah, I used knobs simply because I had a bunch of them.
Doug Miller wrote: :>Anyone have reviews/recommendations?
: I recommend toggle clamps. :-)
Do you have them mounted so they can adjust for different width boards? That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.
-- Andy Barss
I have mine on a scrap piece of melamine. I use two screws per clamp and move it around wherever I want. This takes, possibly, twice as long as sliding along the T-track, which the added advantage of being able to use any straight scrap I have sitting around the shop.
Sometimes we try to make rocket science out of this stuff. I think it was Larry who said he uses some scrap and drywall screws... accomplishes the same thing, for virtually free. As soon as some woodworking catalog comes out with a new jig, it's like we forget how we ever got along without it.
I know a lot of woodworkers who used pocket holes for years before Kreg was around. One in particular, bought a couple Kreg jigs and found they slowed him down, so he sold them to some newbie who couldn't live without them. He does, however, use the step drill bits.
----------------------------------- T-track works for me.
A 12" x 72" x 3/4" plywood piece with 3, 12", T-tracks evenly spaced on 24" centers and a 3/8" x 3/4" x 72" aluminium bar for a guide runner and you are good to go.
Lew .
Personally - since I enjoy woodworking - I make my own out of wood.
(a) 1/4" slot in above an inch or so long
(b) 1" semicircle cut out above slot center
(a) glue a piece under one or both ends of #1
(b) cut a piece to fit in the semicircle cut out and drill 1/4" hole in center.
Lew does that work on 8' long boards also. I usde an 8' sled and use the rip fence as the guide.
It's also possible to mount toggle clamps on t-bolts so they can slide in t-tracks.
I was thinking about this and realized that I have straighten the edge of shorter crooked boards by simply holding it against another straight-edged board which is against the fence, and pushing both forward, together. I wouldn't do that with a longer board.
But that made me wonder if you don't really need clamps on this type of sled. I bet a router mat (a good one, not the stuff they use as shelf liners) would provide plenty of stability.
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