Tablesaw problems (A long one)

Hello Looking for advise. I posted here a while ago about a wobble in the blade on my tablesaw. I bought a new blade , but no different. Below are emails I traded with Ridgid. Do you think this could be the case? Start with the bottom email from me 1st.
Thanks for any feedback. Chris
Chris:
A lot of the blades on the market these days have laser cuts to aid in balance and cooling, so the wobble appearance you are seeing is normal, and the service centers determination that the arbor is not the cause is somewhat confirmed by your visual verification of an appeared wobble on slow down. A blade with laser cuts trues up at full RPM, but appears to have a wobble upon start up and slow down.
The burning you are experiencing is possibly due to a needed adjustment.
With the blade elevated all the way up, take and measure from the edge of the miter slot in the table over to a tooth at the front of the blade. Then measure to a tooth at the rear of the blade. You possibly will find a difference in the measurement.
Now measure from the same tooth at the front of the blade, mark it with a marker and rotate it to the rear position. If the measurement is not the same front and back to the same tooth, the blade carriage/cradle needs to be adjusted (see manual) to bring the face of the blade into square with the slot.
Let me know what you find.
T.Clinkscales Technical Services One World Technologies, Inc.
-----Original Message----- From: Chris Fitzpatrick [mailto: snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 10:27 AM To: snipped-for-privacy@ttigroupna.com Subject: RE: RGDChris Fitzpatrick:RE: Table Saw
Hello Tom,
Thanks for your prompt response. I am not at home now, so I will have to get back to you with the model # of the saw. The blade is not the original, as I said I bought a new blade when I realized I had a problem, I'll be happy to tell you what that is too. You should be able to trust your service center I agree, but it's not a perfect world and things happen. I had not even mentioned it, but the top of the saw is a mess now, I don't now where they had it or what they had on it but I will have a big job cleaning the cast iron top. I am certain the wobble is NOT the blade. This wobble is not noticeable when the saw is running full speed, at least not to me. As the saw coasts to a stop you can see what it wobble. I don't have an Inca tool for measuring the blade distance as it turns, but when I place a piece a wood against the blade and rotate it by hand, I would say there is about 1/8 th of a difference from one side to another. I tried to figure out why I was having problems with my saw, so I consulted other woodworkers to see if my experience was normal. I now believe it's not. You must have someone who could look at the saw for me. I will be happy to pay for their time if I'm wrong, but I truly believe I'm not. I really want to continue to use it, and if I was a contractor ripping rough lumber maybe I could, but cutting oak, maple etc is just way to difficult. I read of other people cutting these woods easily without burning. A blade should not wobble as it moves. A tolerance a a few hundredths of an inch is unavoidable, but not an 1/8.
Thanks,
Chris

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Chris wrote:

Far too long and disjointed to go through the entirety but...
Any chance the arbor isn't turned all the way to the plate or the blade hole isn't completely reamed? Ran into the latter w/ an Incra blade (from the Orange Box place) that was apparently slightly under 5/8"--wouldn't <quite> pull up on the shaft of my old Powermatic 66--in 30 years, only blade that ever happened with so am pretty sure can't blame it on the saw... :)
I seem to have seen something wrt to Ridgid that there were a few models w/ a groove on the arbor that allowed a blade to drop into...Ridgid will replace that--seems like I saw that in recent FWW comments page.
If there's 1/8" runout on a blade turning it by hand it shouldn't be at all difficult to detect where it's coming from w/ only a modicum of inspection and measurement. If, otoh there's no perceptible runout at speed (as I infer from a later point in the quick scan) then it doesn't seem there's a problem of such a large magnitude...
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Chris Did you over tighten the nut? Loosen it and see if the wobble goes away or gets better. max

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Sure. It could be. No one can know if the arbor has run-out without measuring it. Either trust them and accept that the problem is in the blade, or have it checked by someone capable of checking it.
-j

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Chris wrote:

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Chris, something is way off - either in Home depot response or in your assessment of the problem.
I had some early experience chasing alignment problems with my table saw and learned a lot. I'd be happy to share with you what I know. It would be more efficient in email or on the phone. I was so successful in documenting the problem that Jet replaced my whole saw and set it up for me at no charge.
Contact me by direct email. I'll be happy to call and talk it over with you.
My email address is wrobertdavis AT yahoo DOT com.
Bob Davis
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Thanks a lot, I will contact you shortly. Chris

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wrote:

Sorry to hear of your problems. If the saw is not under warranty, see if you can find a reputable shop in your area that will work on it. Have them check it out and give you an estimate. If it is still under warranty you may want to do the same thing. Ask what they will charge to diagnose the problem. If it's affordable enough, have them give you a written report. If they do find a problem you can present this info to Rigid for the warranty work.
Mike O.
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My only thought is, would you place a lot of trust in a service center that returns a machine back to you in worse shape than you left it?
UA100
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