tablesaw outfeed

[Luigi Zanasi]

On Sun, 07 Dec 2003 08:37:52 -0500, BRuce scribbled

the outfeed table, Keith).

Luigi Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address

[Phisherman]

Sounds perfect, and very versatile.

[Ed. O.]

Mark, Yes, make all my own inserts and that is a built in splitter. A piece of angle aluminum will do the trick. Got the idea from Kelly Mehler when we visited his shop in Berea, KY. He showed us how to add a piece of hardwood same width as the slot. It works and I won't argue with a master. Ed

-- Ed. O. My woodworking projects at:

the NAIL from e-mail to reply

[Scott Brownell]

I agree..here you sit with a Uni and you're too damn lazy to build your own OF table for it. Hell, I built one for my lowly 64A and even documented it for anyone else that might need the info. Not too sure that I'd be asking you to make something for me if you can't even do this.

Scott

[Mike S.]

I just got the Jet contractor saw with cast wings. After the delta benchtop it's like going from a yugo to a Trailblazer. Anyway what's the best way to make the miter slots in the outfeed table so they align up with the saws slots?

[nospam]

make a straight true stick that fits snugly in the miter slot, long enough to fill the miter slot and extend as far as you want the slot in the outfeed table to go. you might need to cut relief in the bottom of it to get it close enough to the outfeed table at the extreme end. with that stick in place, set a couple of sheets of something- plywood or mdf or whatever- up against it and clamp them down. pull the stick out of the middle and use the resulting gap as a guide for a top bearing router bit. Bridger

[Brian Henderson]

Yup, I agree. I have a workbench on the far side of my TS that's the same height. Everything slides off the TS and onto the bench and I've yet to find anything that I can't handle that way.

[Unisaw A100]

I made a similar jig but the 3/4" piece was 1 1/8" high and set into the slot only at the table. This was then sided up with two pieces which were then bis-qwiked into the piece sitting in the slot. This left me with the 3/4" "open" which was then routed with a pattern (bearing on bottom/'tween the cutter and base) bit.

Two slight problems to watch for.

When slotting, be sure you stop away from the cast iron. Don't Ask Me How I Know This. The tit that's left isn't much to take off with a file or 60X backed up by a hard block.

Next, I'm not sure if the table moved or I got some seasonal fluctuations but about six months later the outfeed slot was off by enough that a sled runner would run in it. It was only a matter of re-installing the jig and shaving off the now offending "extra".

Which brings me to this. Just how long should you save a one off jig?

It is semi-impressive to have a 3/4" (OK, make that 3/4" heavy in my case) slot when you are done and not one of those 1" wide slots you normally see.

UA100, whose 3/4" heavy isn't detectable by the neked eye...

[nospam]

see, that's why my jig is better than yours. ; ^ ) when I was done I simply returned the parts to stock. no one off jig to store.

that said, I do have a number of "one off" jigs that have been in use, modified and yes, stored for years..... Bridger, whose 4x8 outfeed/assembly table has a heap of old jigs under it.....

[Jim Wilson]

Keeter and Bridger made their extension table slots match the tablesaw slots... Got a question for you guys. Why make it fit? Is it a testosterone thing? (G)

Mine are slightly oversize (Ar-ar-ar!) but the technique was sort of similar to Bridger's. I butted the outfeed table up to the tablesaw, marked the slot outline, moved the outfeed away from the tablesaw (forgot this step, eh, Keith?), clamped a pair of scrap fences a tad more than 3-

1/4" away from each pencil mark and routed the slot. The 3 1/4" is because I used a 1/2" straight bit and my router baseplate is 7". The sled runners do their guiding in the tablesaw slots; the slots in the outfeed table are just for clearance.

Cheers!

Jim

[Howard Ruttan]

I thought of that Jim, but I'll just add a further 2 cents worth. My side feed table is MDF with a laminate on top and I find it too damn slippery. I like a little friction as some plywoods are slippery enough on their own. I find it gives me a bit more control when cutting up a 4x8 sheet. I wax the hell out of the bottom of my crosscut and other sleds and I run them over the saw table before it dries. I think, although I have no substantive proof, a little wax gets transferred to the MDF but not enough to make it too slick.

[Unisaw A100]

That and a generous dosing of pride. I mean, any hack can make 1" wide slots.

you have it.

UA100

[Jim Campbell]

My unisaw came with an outfeed table, but I couldn't use it for 2 reasons: 1) the Unisaw is on a mobile base, and 2) in my small shop, I have the saw up against the garage door, opening it as needed to rip long stuff. Plus I have a dust port coming out the back of the saw.

I wanted to make it folding, hanging off of the saw so it moved around on the mobile w/o problem. One problem with making it hinging was it's HEAVY.

So what I did is cut about a foot off of the saw end of the outfeed table and bolt it to the saw, into and on top of the rear fence rail. This is how it's supposed to go. I then cut about 5" off the remaining piece. It was now short enough so when hanging down off of the fixed piece, it cleared the dust port. A piano hinge provided support. I bolted a sturdy cleat across the rear of the saw cabinet and had a 45% brace going from the cleat up to the fixed piece of outfeed table about every 10". This made the fixed part sturdy enough to handle the weight of hanging part.

The back legs are hinged, and held against the hanging part when it's in the down position by magnets, and there is a magnet which hold the hanging part against the saw cabinet to keep it from bumping around.

Works great.

Jim

[Pat Barber]

Mine is not heavy but rather long.... Here is a picture of mine fully extended... It is 98" from the front edge of table saw to end of outfeed.

This is a slightly modified version of a torsion box design shown in FWW a few issues back in the spring.

The saw is 34-350 12"/14" Tilt> My unisaw came with an outfeed table, but I couldn't use it for 2

[Pat Barber]

Heyyyy... what if your slots are 1" ????

Like this > Jim Wils>

[Jim Wilson]

ROFL! Get out the nomex skivvies! The defenders of the throne are coming!!

Jim

[Jim Wilson]

yours, Pat? Looks like a unisaur under there. Mine (34-450, Nov '68) only has 3/4" slots....

Jim, feeling decidedly undersized now (G)

[Unisaw A100]

>That yours, Pat? Looks like a unisaur under there. Mine (34-450, Nov '68)

Oh no, that there is a 12/14 that Pat, umm, "lucked" onto.

Go ahead, sharpen the goad and ask him what he paid for it.

I've got a pitcher of my Unisaw with O'Deen in the background and he makes it look like a CompacTool key chain table saw (similar to a Ryobi table saw for anyone not interested in bad vintage machines).

UA100

[Jim Wilson]

Aw, man! I don't want to know.

I bet! That one shot of Paddy with a -- what was it, a #7? -- made it look like a #1.

Jim

[nospam]

it was an 8, IIRC. Bridger