think you can make a better one than you can buy (not to say that mine is an example of this), and it will certainly be cheaper. I've been using mine for about 9 months and it has been indispensible.
I've been using a Record adjustable roller stand. The rollers are better than nothing at all, but I need to build an outfeed table for my PM66. I like the hinge, 2x4's, and MDF idea. I'd like to hear what others have done, and what they would have done different. I need a design that keeps the DC port easily accessible.
I pretty much used Al's and Delta's factory outfeed table for ideas on my own too. I used 4'x4' piece of 3/4" melamine, a piece of piano hinge and a couple pieces of 1/8"x1" angle iron for support, and a couple of 1" square tube for legs. Greg
It just kills me when ppl ask - which (insert whatever here) should I buy?? When you can make your own to fit you need for cheaper in 99% of the cases.
I mean what do you plan on building w/ the tools anyways? If you cant build an outfeed table - or a router table - or a drill press table - or what ever - why would think that you can build a piece of furniture or whatnot?
Use your skills at those items first - and like Tom Platman says (and I think of this almost anytime I build anything now after seeing his website) learn to think - once you know how to do that - you can build anything.
Buy a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF and a couple 2x4's and make your own. You can even get creative and add a couple hinges so it folds down. Search Google for folding outfeed and you should get some examples of others who have done exactly that.
I used some leftover MDF and a couple of 2x4's and mine has been in service for 8 years. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on one and those rollers aren't all they are cracked up to be. I would rather have a solid surface.
Rollers, if they aren't perpendicular to the saw blade, can be down right dangerous as they will pull the stock away or towards the blade (dependant upon their alignment to the blade).
If you insist on having something that rolls look at ball casters. These can/will be expensive depending on how many you feel you need.
Having said that, neither is necessary and both are a waste of money. All you really need is a surface at the back side of your table so the stock doesn't want to come up and meet your chin once it's gone past the blade. Also, the rollers/casters render the outfeed useless as a work surface should you choose to need them as "extra" work surface for the shop.
rollers are fussy.they must be perfectly square to the blade or they will pull the material in whatever directionthey are skewed in. table are much better. I just installed a new beismier fence system to my unisaw and built a side extention table for it. I used corian cause i had some. if i can get some more when i do the outfeed table i will use it for that too. skeez
I made my own of MDF and plastic laminate. I prefer a solid outfeed vs. rollers because I can use it as an addition assembly surface when needed. If you don't like MDF, use birch ply under the laminate.
For my dollar, MDF is great stuff for outfeeds, infeeds, assembly tables, router table tops, shop cabinets, etc... Just because it's cheap dosen't mean it's not usable.
I don't mean to gloat, but I have a retired hospital gurney to which I added a plywood top covered with laminate. I can crank it up and down, thus matching the table saw top. It normally sits behind the saw, but if I need a really long outfeed table, I turn it long ways. It also serves well as an assembly table!
My "working bench" in the shop is 4'x3' on wheels, built to be 5/8" below the table saw height. When I need outfeed, I wheel it behing the saw and top it with a piece of plywood. I guess I could incorporate a roller into it but have never seen the need.
I have nothing against either Laminate or MDF...except neither look like wood... and my shop is a woodshop...
My outfeed table (15 years old now) is Birch plywood... with a finish of poly....trimed with scrap Cherry ...looks great...functions great...and has lasted all these years ...
IME, the rollers tend to pull the stock laterally, which can be a bear to deal with. The ball roller types are better in that regard, but they mark up soft stock and have gaps which introduces a new problem. A flat, smooth surface is much better.
The only thing I'd add to Howard's suggestion is to do something to reduce friction on the outfeed surface. You can shellac and wax MDF for a cheap but effective solution. Melamine is another option, but it will also need to be waxed eventually; how soon/often depends on the woods you work with and how good your dust collection is. Best solution IMO is MDF+laminate. In this case, make sure to provide a good flat substructure, or perhaps laminate both sides. Otherwise it will want to warp with changes in humidity.
The HTC rollers work fine in my experience. But remember that they are designed as a space saver and as such have limitations. One improvement I would make is to add support at either outboard side. With the single center support they tend to be tippy especially with large sheet goods. You could add an auxiliary roller stand if needed or simply prop up the corner with a stick. The rollers are parallel and I have not noticed that they skew your work one way or the other.
However if you have the room make yourself a permanent outfeed table as others have suggested. It's easy and cheap and much better. I prefer a laminate surface.
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