The saw is back together, fence is about 1/100th inch further from an
inch or two behind the blade vs before the blade. (used dial caliper)
Ran some pine through the woodworker II tonight and a couple strips of
Poplar. The edge is nicer than the perpared edge from the saw mill
(eg. s2s). However I managed to get myself a series of blade marks
towards the begining of the cut mostly on the materials to the left of
I was using a featherboard to press the material up to the fence set
about 1" back from the blade. Am I using the FB correctly? Or should
it be further back on the piece?
Do most of you TS users push both waste and stock completely by the
fence or only the stock you are keeping?
Sounds like you've got the featherboard about right, but 1/100th inch toe-out
on the fence seems too much to me. Try a little less. You can do it with your
dial gauge/indicator/caliper. I push it all past the fence. 'g'luck! Tom
I don't clamp my featherboard to the saw. Mine is hand - held, with a
curved face that allows me to feed with as little pressure as I need.
Since the featherboard is in the left hand when I rip, I often let it tuck
in a bit after the board has passed, providing me protection should the
breeze try to tuck the off-cut into the blade. Only the fenced side goes
through, unless I've a good eight inches or more of stock on the waste side.
Not worth the risk.
You can set your fence parallel or kick it out a bit on the other side of
the blade, in spite of what some will say, but the very best thing you can
do for your safety is to get vibration of the saw to a bare minimum. Lots
of people with contractor-type saws use link belts, and they will take the
thump of a regular (set) belt out of the equation.
As to roughness at the beginning of the cut, sounds like you had blade
squirm - stabilizer or thick-kerf blade to fix - or you were having a bit of
difficulty aligning the piece past your featherboard, for which the
hand-held will answer.
On 1 Oct 2003 23:50:34 -0700, email@example.com (Alan W)
Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
myself i don't use a featherboard unless its some real off the wall
kind of cut on the TS.
as for pushing the cut through, i leave the offcut to its own device
once the board has all gone through the blade.
The recomended additional clearance at the back of the blade if you must use
that method is .005" or 1/5000. You are witnessing why the fence should be
as close to parallel to the blade as possible.
Yes this is what is suppose to happen when you do not adjust your fence
parallel to your blade. I tend to use that material on the left side of the
cut also so I perscribe to seting the fence as close to parallel to the
blade as possible. This will help eleminate tooth marks on BOTH sides of
The FB can be as close to the blade as JUST behind the teeth on the front
side of the blade.
I only use one push stick on the fence side of the blade. Care must be
taken to remove the nub on the trailing end of the waste piece if you intend
to use that edge against the fence on another pass.
Quite a range! <g> I presume that you meant '.005" or 5/1000', not
.005" or .0002"
That sounds better to me. Isn't the OP's positioning of the
featherboard behind the blade just creating pinching on the blade
and/or splitter, and pushing the cutoff into the blade to encourage
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
Most recommendations I've seen for toeing out the fence say 1/64 from
front to back of the TABLE, so 1/100 from front to back of the blade
would be excessive. Try moving the fence closer to parallel.
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