Tablesaw comparison/buying guide

Aside from the bevelled edge you did mention, you've centred most of your argument around the arbour nut. There's much more practical reasons for left tilt other than that which I'd consider a minor concern. After all, how often does the blade get changed by the average woodworker?

1) The most important reason for left tilt (which alluded to) with a bevelled edge on a left tilt and that is that it wouldn't bind under the bottom edge of the fence where there's space to get caught, minimal as it is. 2) The second thing is that when cutting a bevelled edge, it's leaning over the blade cutting it not and not prone to getting trapped under an angled blade leaning over it causing increased potential for kickback. 3) A third reason is when cutting a bevelled edge, possible tear-out is consigned to the inner edge and not the sharp edge, making for sharper tear-out free bevel cuts. 4) Another minor consideration is that a tilted motor takes up space and a left tilt would take up cabinet space under extension wing area where space is often wasted anyway. A few inches floor space makes a big difference to many space limited woodworkers.

All of these things are considerations to avoid when using a right tilt table saw with the fence on the right side of the blade.

IMHO.

Reply to
Upscale
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And then, there's other considerations for some people. My main consideration is that I use a wheelchair and to date, General is the *only* manufacturer that I know of that builds a lowered line of big hardware. (without increased prices I might add). I closely examined a Sawstop at one point and it contains too much hardware to lower the table to anything approaching comfortable working height from a sitting position. Couple my need with people who may need to or like to sit at their machinery or who might be of lowered stature and that consideration is amplified.

Reply to
Upscale

Haven't seen the video. I have no complaints about the saw. It's certainly powerful enough to cut anything I'm likely to throw at it. The table is a bit on the cheesy side so I'm planning (unless someone has good reasons otherwise) to replace the table with an IKEA beech countertop (with a bit of rework). I have better uses the space my router table takes so I was planning on putting the lift in the saw table. The table is too thin to take the lift and T-Tracks.

The IKEA top is about 1/4 the price of any oak butcher block I can find. There is an IKEA store in Atlanta, so it's no problem fetching it. Shipping for these things is significant.

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Reply to
krw

My Unisaw does have both extensions (a requirement), and the 50" Biesemeyer fence. Space wasn't an issue for the saw. ;-) I paid $1600 for it, in March this year, including shipping (Amazon).

The wheels and locks are all metal and the motor cover fiberglass. I suppose fiberglass could be called "cheap" but it's pretty solid.

The equivalent Jet was quite a bit more than what I paid for the Unisaw. PM was out of the question. If I were going that much I'd have bought either the new Unisaw or SawStop. SWMBO would have had a fit (likely not) if I'd spent that much though.

Reply to
krw

It took me a few moments to realize that the cheesy table that you are talking about is the right extension table, right?

With a nice capable saw like that,,,,, why not build your own? If you think it is cheesy because of the melemine top on MDF? The one on my cabinet saw has held up pretty well for the last 10 years. While the Ikea beech top may be nice, you do want the top to be as slick as possible to help prevent drag. And a surface that resists stuff like glue soaking in.

Reply to
Leon

Talking about Ebay. 3 yrs ago I bought a hardly used Jet JWCS-10A-PF Cabinet Saw for 375.00. The guy used it twice to cut plywood. There wasn't even a scratch in the paint. And he threw in a bunch of other stuff. If you live in a fairly big city or willing to travel a bit, you can't beat the price!!!

Reply to
evodawg

Yes.

Melemine on thin MDF. It's not that the thing is going to fall apart, rather the MDF is too thin to dado in T-Track. I could probably beef up the bottom enough for the router lift. I figured that the 1-1/4 thickness would have plenty of material left after the T-Track slot was hogged out.

I figured poly and wax would resist glue pretty well. It seems to work well on the Ash (it's what I have on hand) cauls I made recently.

Reply to
krw

I'm sure there are deals to be had (the recent gloats as evidence) but I didn't see any real deals when I was looking. There were a lot of questionable deals too (e.g. $1000 for a delta hybrid that was advertised as a Unisaw).

Reply to
krw

I have the Grizzly 1023S and I am very happy with it, and yet I believe your rankings are about right.

The OP's main criteria is durability, and all these saws are going to last a long time.

I suggest the OP should put safety on the criteria list. Get a saw with a riving knife, which all models released in the last year or so have. Older models like my Grizz 1023 don't have one.

And if you can afford the Sawstop, get that.

Reply to
Jim Weisgram

"John Wood" wrote

Though it starts from first principles and doesn't give a clue about trade names, John might find the following of some use:

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Reply to
Jeff Gorman

I purchased a Steel City saw about a year ago - very happy with it. I got the steel top, not the granite - that one just didn't seem very well thought out to me. As for the steel top saw that I ended up with, I couldn't be happier. I had to call the company about one of the hand wheels not turning freely and they were extremely helpful, shipped a replacement part next day air at no cost, and made me feel very well supported. I would buy from them again without hesitation.

Reply to
Mike

FWIW, I think you get the most bang for your buck with Grizzly cabinet saws - they are solid and reliable.. Certainly nothing wrong with the others you list but I think Jet is over priced...their tools seem to me to be much the same as Grizzly with a bit of cosmetic change.

Whichever you decide on, get at least 3HP and 220v.

Reply to
dadiOH

There is one other thing. A cabinet saw is going to give you the durability you are looking for; more so than a hybrid or contractors saw.

The latest versions of the Delta Unisaw, Powermatic PM2000, Sawstop cabinet saws are going in the range of $2500-$3300.

Right now, the Griz G0691 is selling for $1300 mail order with free shipping. I've seen some very favorable user reviews online. Good riving knife system, good fence, smooth running, etc.

Apparently the Shop Fox mobile base isn't solid enough for the weight of this saw. If you want a mobile base, don't get the Shop Fox.

But still, that leaves you with about $1200 or more for wood or more tools.

Reply to
Jim Weisgram

Amazon has the older X5 Unisaw for $2100.

At the prices today, I would have bought the Griz G0691 and indeed was just about to when Amazon had a sale on the Unisaw. I got the Unisaw with Biesemeyer 50" fence for $1600 vs. just shy of $1500 for the equivalent G0690.

Yes, that's sure a good argument for the Griz. ...one that would have swayed me.

Reply to
keithw86

I think that's about the same price as the Steel City.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

I had been considering the Grizzly G1023SLW, now I see this G0691. From what I see, the first one has a routing table built into the extension table while the latter saw has a riving knife. What is it that I don't see? Should I assume the G0691 is better because it's a newer model? I have 220 service so that's not an issue. I'd sort of like the routing table, and a riving knife and a mobile base! :) Does another cabinet saw come to mind meeting this criteria?

Bill

Reply to
Bill

IMHO, the LAST thing you want to do is ask a table saw surface to do dual duty by mounting a router in it.

It's tough enough trying to keep table saw surfaces free and clear to do their designed task.

No point in making the job any tougher than it already is.

The G0691 with 50" capacity and what appears to be a standard 3HP Leeson motor, looks pretty good, especially at the current price.

The next step up IMHO, would be a 5 HP motor.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Especially when you leave a raised router bit in the router and then slide the saw fence into the damned thing. Broke the carbide off the router bit and dented my nice new add-on fence. I cursed for days. Fortunately, it was a cheap 1/4" router bit and the router shaft didn't get bent.

Aside from that, flatness is your key concern. If it's a cast iron wing like I have, then you could probably hang ten routers off it and it will stay flat. If it's a wood or laminate construction, then most any router is going to warp it eventually.

Reply to
Upscale

RE: Subject

Just another data point.

Looks like Delta is still offering the 10" Contractor's Saw.

36-981 is listed for under $1K retail.

30" rails, 1-3/4 HP, 115/230, Unifence with cast wings and MDF table on right.

Throw in a mobile base and you are good to go.

Mine was a better saw than I deserved.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Don't know about the riving knife, but I know Jet has a cabinet saw/table that fits their X-Acta lift. I don't see it as a big deal to put one in any table though. I have the X-Acta lift and am planning to put it in my Delta's table. Yes, I know it'll get in the way but so does the router table.

Reply to
krw

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