I have been building some kitchen cabinets of late. I have a 10"
Delta Unisaw and I've never had burning with a combination blade. I
purchased a 80 tooth Oldham Industrial Carbide finishing blade for
this project. I also built a large crosscut sled. As usual, I set my
blade depth so that 3 - 4 teeth are protruding through the top of the
material being cut.
Problem. Cutting through 3/4 inch melamin-surfaced particle board
there is a little bit of burning evident on the material. When I
start using the crosscut sled, the burning is *very* noticable. After
cutting a batch of panels the air is very acrid and smokey.
The blade is square to the fence. The blade is sharp. The blade is
clean. I've experimented with faster/ slower feed rates, with not
much success. The sled is true and produces very lovely, perfectly
square panels -- just nicely toasted on the edges.
Mr Fixit eh
Time to check the miter slots to blade alinement. Sure sounds like
the blade is NOT really parallel to the miter slot that the sled is
On 23 Nov 2004 10:08:44 -0800, email@example.com (Steve Nekias)
Leon, John could still be right in his assessment. The sled may be true
because the 90 degree fence (backstop or whatever his sled uses) is true to
the miter slot, but the blade isn't. Picture a blade that is off by 15
degrees. If the sled is square to the miter slot, you will still get a
square panel. I wouldn't want to be the operator in such a setup 'cause
there will be much burning and weird loud noises and such. If the blade is
not aligned to the miter slot, but the fence is, you would have no problem
when using the rip fence. (We're talking much less than the fifteen degrees
mentioned in the extreme example above.) When setting up a table saw, you
must FIRST align the blade to the miter slot THEN align the fence to the
Yeah I know perhaps I should have also included that he said "and produces
very lovely" cuts. If the sled were tracking into the side of the blade,
there would probably also have tooth marks on the pieces.
Thanks very much, guys. I will be cutting more panels on the weekend.
I will raise the blade. If that doesn't work, I will double/ triple
check the alignment of blade. I'll post back with any success.
I cut another series of panels today.
Raised the blade so that 6-8 teeth (80T blade) are above the stock
surface. This did reduce the burning, but did not eliminate it
completely. There was significant chipping of the melamine surface of
the particle board.
I re-checked the alignment of the blade to the miter slot. With a
straightedge aligned with the blade (between teeth front and back),
the measurement between straightedge and miterslot is 1/16th closer to
the miterslot at the back edge of the saw table than at the front edge
of the table.
Is this enough out-of-alignment to cause burning?
The reason there is not burning when using the fence is that the fence
must be out-of-alignment with the miter slot by the same amount that
the blade is out?
Thanks for your help.
Mr Fixit eh
Yes. Get yourself a cheap dial indicator and do a google search for table
saw set ups in this group. Tons of information on it. Get your blade
within .005" and you'll see a HUGE difference. You can probably get it
within .001" if you really want to go that far - and many of us do, but
within .005 should be fine.
Or use your combination square, referencing to the miter groove, using the
ruler as a touch gage. If you are curious how far out is out, use cheap
Should be same tooth - touch and touch fore and aft.
Yup. Funny how sometimes we get so used to doing things the way we do and
then overlook other, sometimes more simple or less expensive ways. It's
because I'm lazy - and maybe getting lazier the older I get, that I
recommend the dial indicator. It saves me having to mess around with my
feeler gauges to determine the error as I go back and forth. But, like I've
said about a lot of other things here, woodworkers have been doing a lot of
things in a lot of different ways for decades and in some cases, for
centuries, so my way sure as hell ain't the only way.
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