Table Saws -

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Hi, All.
New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
Here is my guess:
* Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
* 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
* Right handed tilt.
* Not a contractor's saw.
* A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
So, what brands are good, what should I stay away from? Is there a fence system that is superior to other types? What is a "hybrid" saw?
Right now I make boxes and similar things, want to expand my skills/capability to cabinets and so forth. Any opinions or coments are VERY welcome! TIA.
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"Not a contractor" means cabinet saw (as does "not a bench saw"). Under $1k pretty much means Grizzly. If you wanted an opinion on a Grizzly, why didn't you just ask for it. My opinion would be to spend more money or go used and get a Unisaw/PM66/General.
I prefer left tilt.
For a hobbyist in a retirement home 3HP is all you'll ever need.
The fence that comes with any of the triumvirate I mentioned will do all you want and more.
--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
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LRod wrote:

anoutfeed table and a box of blades worth a few hundred. It's been a wonderful table saw.
I definitely agree with Lrod on the left tilt -- it means you don't have to move the fence when you change blades -- the distance is the same to the blade.
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Unless yours is different, don't your blades stack to the right like most left tilts? If so, the width of cut changes with different thickness blades.
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Thanks to all for your replys! I wandered thru the Grizzly site, 1023 series, and they seemed to be just the ticket. The 1023SZ had a different fence from the others, a "Pro-something" vs the Classic model on the others. Is this worth the extra money?
Just a few other comments: If I had a school or class here I could take, I would! So far I have depended on books from the local hardwood supply store, and turned a lot of wood into sawdust learning the proper use of planes and saws. I can now make a square 2 foot board, ugly dovetail joints, and laminate boards without using hydraulic clamps to hold them while the glue drys! One of the things I have found so far, is that a poor tool is a waste of time, to buy, or to use. With a good table saw, I can learn to do some more things that now require a ton of hand work.
Anyway, thanks again for the good information!
Rich.....
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I have heard that the pro fence is fussier. I decided to go with the classic. The classic is a bies clone and is pretty good. No problems with it except that the tape that comes with it is worth replacing.
j
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Leon
Absolutely correct, left tilt saws distance to the normally placed fence to the right side of the blade, the distance from fence to blade varies as to the thickness of the blade (or dado stack). I have a Incra fence on the saw, easy to zero it to whatever balde I have installed, tape measure strip is magnetic and I just peel it up and reposition so 0 is under the cursor when the fence is flush to the blade
Right tilt, with fence to the right, the distance from fence to blade does NOT vary with the blade thickness
John
On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 02:52:49 GMT, "Leon"

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Hey Rich,
I am starting off with a recently purchased used General 50-175 Contractor saw. For myself, this is just a hobby. I plan to build my own kitchen cabinets and build a mission style entertainment center. For now, it will do just fine. If I really get into it...I can easily sell my General for the same price I paid and then upgrade.
Look into General. They have great products. www.general.ca
Good luck.

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I will second that, I just bought the same saw... and I will be doing the same thing with it :c)
I also bought a sliding table and a scoring saw for it.
Christian

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Grizzly 1023 series
Ronb
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You won't like this answer, but...
Take a woodworking course and learn how to use the various tools. Then you will have a better idea what you need. You sure don't need a $1,000 saw to make boxes.
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Hi Rich,
Being recently retired (4+ years), I thought that I needed a decent TS since I fooled with a $300 (1987 dollars) for 17+ years.
I could not see springing for $2K on a TS, but I wanted a decent one with a decent sturdy fence. After spending some time here on the wreck (there are many TS threads) I went Grizzly this past January. A few months later, I added a Forrest WWII blade.
I don't see how any (hobbyist type) saw could be any better than this. It has added to my enjoyment/productivity/accuracy to a great degree.
You will not be disappointed (I got the 1023SL).
And at about $1K, it's just $2/pound!!
Lou

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Most of the replies seem to be advising a Grizzly and I can't argue with that choice. However, just to give you something else to think about, the top of the line Craftsman hybrid saw seems to match several of your requirements (except that it is a left-hand tilt). It is not a full-fledged cabinet saw but the trunions are attached to the cabinet, not the table as they would be on a contractors saw. And the fence is a Beismeyer.
Lee
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On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:54:49 -0400, "Lee Gordon"

Just to be clear, I was NOT advising a Grizzly (nor am I saying you said I did). I don't have any use for the Grizzly stuff, nor would I recommend them--well, except instead of Harbor Freight...
Frankly, I think he should get a $1499 Unisaur (50" Biesemeyer fence and table, mobile base, 3HP motor, decent blade, free shipping) from Woodworkers Supply and be done with it.
--
LRod

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Lee Gordon wrote:

Just when I thought Craftsman was a brand to avoid!!! But what is a Hybrid saw?? And is a Beismeyer fence the way to go, or will other ones work just as well??? I was leaning towards the Grizzly 1023SZ if I can save the pennies, in part because it seemed to have a better fence than the base 1023 model.
Again, thanks to all for the comments!!!!!
Rich.....
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The Griz 1023 with mobile base and a forrest WWII would be my choice for $1K. If fact, even if my budget was $2K I wwould probably still do the 1023 and trick it out with outfeed and extensions and then spend the difference om wood!

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Need more $$$ from your description. Look at PM66 or General 350.
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Plishman ...Normally I tend to agree with most of your postings...BUT in this case I rally do not understand your reasoning.... The original poster wants a $1000 saw... to make boxes.... ! He sure as hell does not even need a cabinet saw to do that, not alone a Powermatic or General Cabinet saw...
Any of the name brand contractors saws equipted with a good solid Bies Like Fence (and a good blade) will work for making boxes...
Bob G.
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Guys, I don't know if you've noticed, but a fair amount of woodworking is "making boxes". Some are big (as houses) and some are small (as tiny as match boxes), and some are fancy, and some are plain, and some are combined with other boxes and some are pretty odd shaped, ......
But the bottom line is, learning to make accurate, precisely fitted boxes (or cubes) is really the first step in successful woodworking.
(Wood turning and wood carving are really sub-disciplines of woodworking.)
For a grand, my advise is look to Grizzly. IMHO, right now, it's the best bang for a buck.
James...
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Hi James,
Well put...after 20 years, I am still perfecting my "box" making - big, little and in-between.
Lou
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