Table saw wired for 220 but using a standard 3 prong plug

Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I have not turned it on yet.

Reply to
fourempties
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Did he say it *could* be wired for 220? most contractor saws can be wired either way by switching a couple of connections in the motor housing (usually detailed on or in the housing), but it involves changing the plug.

jc

Reply to
Joe

Nope- he said it IS wired for 220.

Reply to
fourempties

Open up the motor and check the wiring diagram against what's connected.

It is possible (though inadvisable, certainly not code, possibly illegal in most jurisdictions) to run 220V through a 110V plug (there are enough conductors). I had a friend who's crimson-necked brother (a redneck amongst rednecks) did this because he didn't want to spend money on a new plug and a new outlet. But in his mind it was OK since a) he knew about it and b) he sprayed red paint on the outlet and the plug. A few years later his wife or kid plugged some non-220 item into the red outlet and it didn't go well.

hex

-30-

Reply to
hex

I suspect he erred. Unless he has some very non-standard wiring in his shop, you're not going to get 220 out of a 110 outlet, regardless of plug type, motor wiring, etc. If he has non-standard wiring, then indeed he could have had 110V outlets (standard duplex outlets) wired up so that they delivered 220V - all it takes is to put the neutral on the other pole of a

220V breaker. In that case, he could indeed use a 110V plug/outlet combination for a 220V saw. That's the only way you could get 220V out of a standard 110V duplex though.

Plug the saw into a 110V outlet. If it comes right up to speed, it's wired for 110. If it does not, then it's wired for 220V. Or... take off the motor plate and inspect the wiring, comparing the internal connections to the wiring chart that is most likely right there.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

Make certain yourself by looking at the wiring diagram for the motor before you plug it in.

He might well have been running it on 220 circuit with a 110 plug, although it is exceeding stupid/dumb/foolish to wire a 220 circuit so that it will take a 110 plug, so don't make the same mistake ... verify, verify.

Myself, don't think I would purchase a saw with firing it up ... if you've already paid for it, just hope it's not a ruse to put the blame on you for an already fried motor.

Reply to
Swingman

"Swingman" wrote

That should, obviously, be "without" firing it up ...

(Can't be too damned careful in matters 'electrical' around here) :)

Reply to
Swingman

Ah- but I didn't say I had not fired it up. It fired up in his garage, but I don't know what his electrical set-up is, and I don't know much about electricity anyway. I am just wondering what will happen if I plug it into a regular outlet and turn it on, or if I need to try and wire it for 110. Smoke? Fire? Running at half-speed? Fry a circuit? Trip the breaker? Nothing?

Reply to
fourempties

I bought a RAS from an estate where the owner had wired the motor for

220 but left the original 120 plug in place, then used a pigtail adapter to plug it in to a 220 outlet.

Once I got the machine home, I changed out the plug so there'd be no confusion.

Reply to
Chuck Taylor

Changing the plug isn't technologically required--any plug that has two prongs can pass 220. But it is certainly advisable as is using

220v receptacles instead of 110 on 220v lines, even though the 110v receptacles will actually _work_ just fine as long as you don't plug any 110v equipment into them.
Reply to
J. Clarke

"fourempties" wrote

Sorry, sure sounded that way ...

If the saw is wired for 220 and you plug it into a 110 circuit that is _properly_ wired, more than likely it just won't run at all and there should be no damage.

The other way around and you'll likely let all the smoke out.

Reply to
Swingman

ROTFL I just had to picture of all these saws with a built in smoke canister just ready to blow in the event you hook it up wrong. Can the smoke be replaced or do you have to get a new canister? ;~)

Reply to
Leon

No sense of adventure, eh?

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

It implies that there must be a 120V _outlet_ that is wired for 220. It probably wouldn't hurt a 220V saw to be briefly connected to 110, but if a 110V tool was plugged into 220, watch out!

Reply to
Larry W

Ok.. he COULD have a 220v circuit at home with a 110v plug.. Not that uncommon, I have a couple of 220v switched cords that have 115v plugs on them.. Most likely, though, he meant that it COULD run on 220v...

I have a Ridgid TS and it takes maybe 3 minutes to check, so I'd do the following before I plugged it in to anything:

Pull the screws off the motor started plate and look at the diagram on the housing, compared to how the motor is wired.. It's a LOT easier than you'd think, because the wire routing is very different for 220/110..

BTW: a lot of things say "prewired" 220v but you have to change them anyway..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

I have it wired for 110 now, but I have another problem which I started another thread for. The post is called:

Ridgid table saw motor wiring

Any help would be seriously appreciated.

Reply to
fourempties

I had a an old table saw that was wired for 110. It could be wired either way, but at that time I only had 110 in my shop. I had installed a quad outlet box on it. I took it to a jobsite and set it up. Was popping breakers when ripping 8/4 oak and asked the electrician to rewire it for 220, so he did and hardwired it to the temporary loop. He told me that the outlets on that quad box would all be 220, now, so don't use them. I didn't.

One morning, I came in and the drywall guys were already there putting up drywall. They all had these brand new Makita drywall guns and were raving about how fast a powerful they were. Thats when I noticed where they had them plugged in!

They were pissed when I told them that they were running on 220, but surprisingly it did not seem to damage them. They ran fine for the rest of the job and for the several after that. I am sure that their life expectancy had been reduced, but I have no idea by how much.

After they switched over to standard power, the bragging stopped.

Reply to
Robert Allison

"Leon" wrote

It'd be toast at that point ... burnt toast! :)

Reply to
Swingman

Unfortunately, it is _magic_ smoke that makes all power devices run.

Creating replacement magic smoke is generally beyond the capabilities of the typical mortal.

One usually needs to take the device in question to a practicing thaumaturge (one specializing in alchemy and transformations), whom, after sufficient groveling on your part, will consent to transform an inordinate amount of your money into the requisite magic smoke for the particular type of device and emplace same in the device.

Reply to
Robert Bonomi

;~) Having been in the automotive business for many years and having a close association with the Oldsmobile factory rep he could never explain a question I have had ever since I was 23 years old. I replaced the submerged, universal electric motor fuel pump on my car. Wondering how that little cylinder shaped pump worked I cut it opened and to my surprise found that the gasoline passes through the middle of the motor and keeps every thing inside perfectly clean including the brushes. Now I know that the brushes will not spark when they are submerged however there are times that you run out of gasoline and air is surely introduced into the mix. Why no big bang?

Reply to
Leon

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