Table Saw Switch Question/Problem?

I recently bought this switch for my Delta 36-982 (979) table saw. http://www.grizzly.com/products/h8243 It's good for 220v and that's how I wired the saw motor.
Here's the issue... if it is one.
I notice that I have to hold the ON switch/button in until the motor is up to speed before I let go of the button, or it disengages. I can speculate several reason this might be normal, but just don't know for sure.
I have several other tools (Jet Lathe and bandsaw) with similar switches and never had this occur with them.
Is this normal or is there something wrong with the switch?
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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-MIKE- said:

Well, it doesn't appear to be a magnetic safety switch, so it shouldn't do that even if mismatched to the motor.
But it does "appear" to have a relay inside. If purely mechanical, this should never happen and implies a defective switch. If it contains a relay, the wiring to your saw may be a bit undersized and the voltage drop during startup is sufficient for the relay to de-energize due to low coil voltage. It could also be defective.
Some help, eh?
Have you tried calling Grizzly? I'm sure thy have had ample experience with this switch.
Greg G.
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Greg G. wrote:

Grizzly was my next call. Figured someone in here might have some quick info, first.
The wiring is definitely *not* undersized. I'm a bit anal about that stuff. :-)
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-MIKE- wrote:

Called Grizzly, waited a few seconds, spoke with some who spoke English, well, who wasn't reading from a script... already a strange customer service experience. :-)
He said the only way he knew that could happen is that it is wired backwards: line/load reversed.
I've wired hundreds of switches and like I said, I'm anal, so I'd be surprised if that's the case.... but I'm going to check. I will laugh.
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-MIKE-

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-MIKE- said:

I've heard that. They have a pretty good repuation.

Could well be if the switch is a relay switch and not purely mechanical one.
Good luck.
Greg G.
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Switch and wiring were fine, the mount wasn't.
The box I mounted it to had the switch laying back a little bit from the faceplate, which wasn't allowing the ON button to travel all the way back into the box to push the switch as far as it could go.
I sanded the plastic faceplate down about 1/8" and now it's fine.
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-MIKE-

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Doncha just love it when you find an easy solution??
:)
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Vic Baron wrote:

Yes. Especially when I haven't attempted to fix all the complex ones, already. :-)
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-MIKE-

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wrote:

Not always! What if it's an easy solution that takes hours and hours and hours to find?
Here's my story:
I'm talking about the time that I was using a hole drill under my desk. Couldn't see where exactly I was drilling, but it was aimed in the right direction and it was turning.
3/4" side of particle board desk. What? Maybe five minutes max of drilling?
After an hour the cordless battery died. Hit the drill with a replacement and continued on. Went to a smaller hole drill, figured the one I was using was too dull. Another hour wasted. Went to the store and bought a new hole drill. Two more hours wasted with a whole lot of cursing and swearing. Know I was hitting wood. It wasn't some metal device in the way.
FINALLY after four hours of screwing around with this thing, I pulled the drill out to realize what I'd been doing wrong all the time.
That damned cordless drill was in reverse. Kicked myself for two weeks after that. Actually had a nightmare about it.
Demons come in all forms folks.
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Done that one so many times, I now look at the switch as soon as I notice the absence of shavings.
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On Nov 11, 3:52am, snipped-for-privacy@teksavvy.com wrote:

Did that with my drill once. Finally noticed on my 3rd bit {sheepish grin}
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snipped-for-privacy@teksavvy.com wrote:

We've all been there, once. At least you didn't try to sharped the other side of the teeth. :-)
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-MIKE- said:

D'oh! Don't you just hate it when that happens. I just assumed... Glad it's working.
Greg G.
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