Table saw surface

Hi, I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...

I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I would expect.

Thanks, Rob

Reply to
avthokie
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Reply to
Anthony Diodati

paste wax. rub it on, let it dry for a bit, rub it off.

Reply to
Bridger

Surface rust can be controlled with a light application of WD40. A light spray of silicone will reduce friction.

Reply to
C

Get the product made for this. TopCote. Originally intended to make the wood slide easier and as an added benefit will help to prevent rust. It does not need to be removed before using the TS and will not cause finish problems.

Reply to
Leon

Sorry C, Totally wrong with the Silicone advice. Silicone will come off on the wood and create all kinds of havoc when trying to apply a finish. Keep silicone away from you wood and your woodworking tools.

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Reply to
Leon

OK. I have not noticed any problems yet, but I will cease its use. Thanks.

Reply to
C

An f*ck up your finish.

Sorry 'bout the harsh word but some times it's needed.

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

WD40 is not a lube and doesn't prevent rust. Silicone causes fish-eyes in finishes. WD40 works great to clean the cosmoline and other grease off the table, after which a coating of Johnson's floor wax keeps major rust from forming. Boeshield works very well too, and is easier to apply. Top Cote is also excellent.

Silicone is any form is anethema in woodworking.

Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

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Reply to
Charlie Self

Anathema/an enema, which is it?

Pate wax to protect, paraffin (canning wax for the blokes) rub for an instant slide. Use the same block you use to lube your fasteners.

Reply to
George

Periodically I clean the cast iron surfaces of all my equipment with a rag dampened with kerosene. If the rag has too much kero in it, the job turns a bit messy-greasy. Then I wipe the surfaces with a clean dry towel, then use paste wax and buff. The table saw extension (a plastic laminate) just gets a wax and buff treatment. I use the electric auto buffer when I'm feeling lazy.

Reply to
Phisherman

I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood. I use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.

dave

Reply to
ClemsonDave

Right advice, wrong reason. It's the silicone in car wax that causes the problem.

-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Reply to
Doug Miller

Can't be "Bees Wax" as in the walnut oil beeswax mixture for treenware? Made in Holland, MI?

Reply to
George

George responds:

Either. What kind of pate do you want to use?

Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

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Reply to
Charlie Self

Clemson Dave responds:

Petroleum has squat to do with it. Many, maybe most, car waxes contain silicone, which creates fish-eyes in finishes. Beeswax is actually a tad soft, but if melted and combined with a harder wax--carnauba (sp? George) for instance--it does fine. Check with local beekeepers for beeswax, though. Woodcraft gets 11 bucks a half pound, plus shipping. Beekeepers in my area of VA get from $2 to $4 a pound. You might have to strain it through cheesecloth, but a few bees knees really don't hurt most uses.

Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

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Reply to
Charlie Self

I use Topcote and for removing rust I did find a product for removing rust. The product is a green liquid that you apply to the rust area and then use stell wool to polish the area affected. I have been able to restore some minor rust on tools that had been hit by rain when woking outdoors.

Daniel

Reply to
Daniel Martin

I have had very good results with a couple of different brands of car wax- both made a big deal on the label about their high percentages of caranauba. both were a bit stiffer to apply and dried a bit harder than furniture or floor wax. neither had silicone. any other petroleum distillates must have evaporated completely enough to not be a problem.

I'd use them again.

Bridger

Reply to
Bridger

As in chopped, like liver?

I use paraffin/mineral oil.

Spelling good, concept, strange, proofread non-existent.

Reply to
George

On 22 Jan 2004 14:55:02 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comnotforme (Charlie Self) brought forth from the murky depths:

Why are people waxing their goose livers, Chahhhls?

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

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