Table saw splitter


I just got a Delta TS350. I like it so far. I wish I could have fit a larger contractor saw, but my space is limited and this should keep me busy for a while. Even before I build the drawers for my workbench I think I'll build a crosscut sled and a tenon jig this weekend.
Anyway, my question is about the splitter. At the back, where it mounts to the rod...it's a considerable distance away from the table. Is there a reason for this? I checked out the manuals for other Delta table saws and they look similar. Is there any reason why it couldn't have been moved to within 1/4" or so of the table?
Mike
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Mike,
Be careful with this saw. I had a Delta 36-600 and I loved it. Great saw to get started but it had some limitations, which can be overcome with some jigs and some patience. I believe this saw is the same as what is now your model. Correct me if I'm wrong, the the spitter hand from a support that is connected to a rod coming out of the back of the saw and there is no support through the throat plate. Is that correct?
If so, be very careful with that blade guard. The splitters on most saws have that additional support through the throat plate, but the lack of that additional support makes this very flimsy. When cross cutting some wood, my splitter deflected and was actually caught by the blade. I quickly turned the saw off, and no wood flew any where, but it scared me. I started using the saw without the guard.
I made a homemade zero clearance throat plate out of some extra 1/8th inch panaling. You can glue some sort of a homemde splitter to that. Unfortunately, none of the after market splitters will work.
Good luck with the saw. I've since moved on, but I made a basement full of cabinets with that saw and in the process got hooked on this woodworking. If you DAWGS on my handle Woodchuck34 + 36-600, you'll see a lot of old info on my experiences with the saw. I just double checked Delta's website and it does appear to be the smae saw.
Chuck
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You might be able to guess why I was asking. The rod that the splitter connects to extends several inches beyond the back of the table and in a one-car garage I was looking to push the TS further against the wall when not in use. Taking the splitter off still leaves the rod sticking out. So I was thinking about shortening the rod and rethreading it. This alone would push the splitter closer to the blade so I'd also have to modify the splitter too.
I'll post a picture to the woodworking binaries group; it'll be obvious.
Mike
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upand_at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com writes:

You can buy a Micro-Jig splitter for under $25.
http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm
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Can't buy a Micro Jig for that model of TS as the throat plate is too thin (1/4" thick). I know because I used to own that model and the you can't get the micro jig to work. I do use it now and love it.
Chuck
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It is raised above the table? That can't be right, it won't work for thin wood. I must be misunderstanding you. All I can think is that it is a distance to accomodate angling the blade; but that would be a lousy design.
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If you move it closer it may come in contact with the blade as you raise the blade higher.
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upand_at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

If you consider what the splitter does, you'll see it doesn't need to be close to the blade. It's stopping wood that would have warped the cut closed from doing that, so it can't bind on the rising part of the blade and get tossed out.
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Well the closer the better. I have had wood start to close up on me before reaching the splitter and that was after cutting several pieces from the same board with no problems.
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