Table Saw questions

[Poseidon]

I would like to ask for comments on a highly disputed topic - table saws. After a long hiatus I am getting back into WW and need to update my table saw (currently a Ryobi BT3000). My future projects include: a sleigh bed, chest of drawers, bookcases, and nightstands. I know these are ambitious projects and I intend to start with smaller projects to re-immerse my feet. Now back to my dilemma. I am in the market for a good table saw and have been stewing about a contractor vs. a cabinet saw. I have read many good articles and reviews on the subject; however, they tend to contradict each other somewhat. Whatever saw I end up with must have a good fence! A biesemeyer fence spoiled me on a unisaw, years ago, at an Air Force Base wood hobby shop.

My top choice was the JET 708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw with 50" Fence, Router Lift, Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I read a review in a recent magazine. It showed a picture of a cut that wasn't supportive for the saw. I would really appreciate comments about that review - either supporting or debunking that review. I really like that package, as I want to upgrade from my old Craftsman router as well.

On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router table/table saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.

This is where it kind of falls apart for me. If I spend another $500 I get another 1.5 hp and a 52" fence system. I know it would be worth it, if only there wasn't a nagging question about the cut. On second thought, I would need to buy a mobile base and have a 220 plug put into the garage. I suppose that would elevate the price to about $2000. Roughly $800 more than a contractors saw, would it be wiser to spend that $800 on other tools like a jointer or band saw?

I am fully cognizant that only I can answer which saw is best for me and have others saws like the Grizzly 1023 dancing through my head; nevertheless, many of you have struggled with these questions and I would like to hear how you handled it, or how you would if you had to do it again.

Thanks, Mike

[Mark Jerde]

I like my relatively high RT (46 3/4") for "flat" router work. For vertical work I'm considering putting an RT in my TS.

-- Mark

[Lawrence A. Ramsey]

Have only seen good post on the Griz 1023. People that have them like them. A cabinet saw is much more stable and stronger than a contactors saw plus you never have to wonder about upgrading. I bought a used Unisaw, a Hitachi 12MV router and am very happy. Plus a Unifence with the T-Track so that I could add feather boards and board buddies and clamps and whatever. Check w/Delta dealer and see about a factory reconditioned Unisaw. I bought one so I KNOW they sell them. Think about a shaper for big stuff and a router for smaller stuff. I would suggest the following:

Cabinet saw-Jet, Delta, Grizzly, Powermatic, General

18" Mini-Max band saw or Laguna-great for resawing Hitachi M12v router. That is some serious machinery BUT have high resale vallue should/when that day arrives. Always buy the best; you'll never regret it but you will often find yourself regretting buying a cheaper machine just to save a few bucks. You can find used fences on Ebay and other sites.

a long hiatus I am getting back into WW and need to update my table saw (currently a Ryobi BT3000). My future projects include: a sleigh bed, chest of drawers, bookcases, and nightstands. I know these are ambitious projects and I intend to start with smaller projects to re-immerse my feet. Now back to my dilemma. I am in the market for a good table saw and have been stewing about a contractor vs. a cabinet saw. I have read many good articles and reviews on the subject; however, they tend to contradict each other somewhat. Whatever saw I end up with must have a good fence! A biesemeyer fence spoiled me on a unisaw, years ago, at an Air Force Base wood hobby shop.

Fence, Router Lift, Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I read a review in a recent magazine. It showed a picture of a cut that wasn't supportive for the saw. I would really appreciate comments about that review - either supporting or debunking that review. I really like that package, as I want to upgrade from my old Craftsman router as well.

saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router table/table saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.

another 1.5 hp and a 52" fence system. I know it would be worth it, if only there wasn't a nagging question about the cut. On second thought, I would need to buy a mobile base and have a 220 plug put into the garage. I suppose that would elevate the price to about $2000. Roughly $800 more than a contractors saw, would it be wiser to spend that $800 on other tools like a jointer or band saw?

others saws like the Grizzly 1023 dancing through my head; nevertheless, many of you have struggled with these questions and I would like to hear how you handled it, or how you would if you had to do it again.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router table/table saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.

My thoughts: Do you have the space for a router table? If not, the tableboard of the saw is a great place and cheaper.

If you have the room, I'd go for a separate table. If you have the router setup for a particular operation, it wil not be disturbed if you need to use the saw. Dust collection is easier to build into a stand alone cabinet and fence. Less chance of damaging a router ibt when you move the tablesaw fence in that direction. Dedicated router fence can have featherboards or stops attached easily. Ed

[Poseidon]

I have a two car garage. Thanks for the tips. I see that a dedicated table is the way to go...

[Poseidon]

The G1023SLX would be $1180.00 shipped. Anyone know how the Jet compares?

[Leon]

I have had the Jet JTAS 10" left tilt for about 3 1/2 years. It does every thing I throw at it, acurately and with a WWII blade the cuts are shiney smooth.

As for the article, the Jet may very well have not cut well. You SHOULD make sure that the saw it properly tuned with a good to premium quality blade if you want great cuts. I would guess the Jet in the article was lacking in one of those areas. If you use a great blade and the new Jet does not cut as good as anticipated, check that every thing is properly aligned. Mine still cuts great and I only had to align the fence when I put it all together.

[B a r r y B u r k e J r .]

My router was in my saw wing for quite a while. I went to a stand-alone table simply for cleanliness. The open bottom on the saw wing made for a huge mess. Router tables are very easy to make mobile, so they can easily be stored out of the way.

Barry

[Andrew Barss]

: My top choice was the JET 708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw with 50" Fence, Router Lift, Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I read a review in a recent magazine. It showed a picture of a cut that wasn't supportive for the saw.

I have this model saw, along with the same extras. It's terrific. I spent a little time aligning it (it arrived with fine alignment, but I got it even better aligned). It's powerful, smooth, and gives superb cuts.

-- Andy Barss