table saw motor problem


I've got a Jet cabinet saw (JTAS 10 I think). Single phase, not sure of the hp. I've had it for a couple of years now. Doesn't get a lot of use.
I am running a Forrest WoodWorker II thin kerf on it (recently purchased.)
For about the last 6 months (gets used about 2 or 3 times a month), I've had a problem with the motor's thermal breaker tripping. Even ripping pretty soft wood the thing trips VERY often. I have to let it sit for 10 minutes or so before I can reset it (a little button on the motor).
I *know* it wasn't always this bad. When I first got the thing I ripped a *bunch* of 6/4 maple and it cut nice. Was also using a Forrest WWII at the time.
Back to the tripped breaker. When I feel the motor after a trip it doesn't even feel warm to me. Even still... have to let the thing sit for a few minutes before I can reset.
Anyone have any ideas?
Is my motor shot?
Is my thermal breaker shot?
Can I just pull the motor out (as if that will be easy) and bring it to some local motor shop for repair?
Hmmmmm. I'd really like to get this working again. The thing tripped on me tonight halfway through ripping an 8' redwood 2X4 :-( This can't be right.
Best, Buzz
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Buzz Burrowes wrote:

to 220 volts. Check to make sure the belt is not binding on the belt cover. I would have the motor checked for current draw. OTOH I once had a breaker that went bad and tripped too easily (not on the table saw, though.)
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
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I doubt it.

That'd be my first guess, considering that the motor "doesn't even feel warm".

I should think so. But if it were me, I'd call JET first and ask them what they think is wrong. I'm sure they'd be happy to sell you a new thermal breaker.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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If that is the correct ID on the saw, you are having to use 220 volts to run it and it is a full blown cabinet saw that weighs about 500#'s with a 3 or 5 hp motor. Sound right?

I do have a JTAS 10L and am not aware of a thermal breaker on the motor. I think maybe you have a different saw and especially think that if it runs on 110 volts.

Are you using an extension cord? If so try not using an extension cord or one with a higher gauge wire.

Is the blade clean?
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Make sure the receptacle that you are plugging into has not become loose or sloppy fitting. A loose or poor connection could cause the breaker to trip. RM ~
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Eventually, they cut the circuit way too soon.

You can buy a new thermal switch, but isn't it inside the motor? If so, you must remove the motor to be anyway. Jim
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saw with a 3hp motor. That is more power than a 120 line can handle. It should never ever trip the thermal overload. Jim
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In answer to some of the questions...
I've got the model number wrong. It is definitely a 110 motor.
I have tried different extension cords and outlet. I now have a truly monstrous cord running from the saw to the outlet, and tried any different outlets.
Blade is VERY clean... new in fact. When the thing doesn't shut down, that Forrest makes one nice smooth cut :-)
As for the "pull the motor question"... clearly I can see that it won't be TOO hard to pull the motor (although it looks like it will be a real pain to put back in... holding up the motor and getting the bolts started in that small space.)
I guess I was asking if I'd have to send the motor back to Jet, or could have someone else local tear the thing down, or... if tear down and diagnostic might cost so much that I may as well find a new motor. (Anyone know what a 110v motor that would work in this saw might cost?)
I'll try calling Jet. Anyone have any experience with their custom support? I envision sitting on hold for an hour and then someone telling me, "Sorry, can't help you over the phone... you'll have to send the motor in."
I'd love to go 220. I know the motor has a tag that explains how to change a few wires to get it to run off of 220. I have a bunch of remodeling going on around the house, and I think I will have the electrician take a look at the garage before he finishes up.
Thanks for the responses so far.
Buzz
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BTDT on my JTAS (this one really is the 3HP CS). Your expectation is accurate. Your (presumably) 1.5 HP motor has got to be lighter and therefore at least a bit easier.

I replaced the motor on a craftsman contractor saw about 4 years ago. I got a 1.5 HP Grizzly priduct for $99. You would probably pay twice that for a us-made name brand product. That should give you a price range.

I had new product support calls for myth my cabinet saw and my lathe. In one case there appeared to me a missing part (mostly my fault, it was really well hidden). In the other case there was some monor shipping damage (likely the carrier's fault).
In both cases Jet only wanted serial numbers and a part number and they fixed me right up. That doesn't really address tech support, but the service was excellent.

IIRC, I did have a little wait time on the lathe, maybe 10 or 12 minutes, but the fellow that I spoke to was clearly familiar with the 1442. I described the parts he understood immediately.
Give them a call, before you pull the motor.
-Steve
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I've called them at least three times that I can recall. Each time, I waited on hold less than fifteen minutes - less than five, in one case - and got the information I needed without a problem.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Got a speaker phone at your house? Watch TV, do the dishes, seduce the wife, then pick up the phone when someone answers. On second thought, if you're busy with the wife, suggest that if you value your continued existence, you hang up the phone and continue doing what you were doing.
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Well, spoke with Jet today. They were very helpful. Sold me a replacement overload breaker for the motor (~$11).
I'll drop it on and see if it helps.
Buzz
Buzz Burrowes wrote:

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