|I have a Craftsman 10" tablesaw. If I cut a piece of wood, and then |examine the two pieces, I can see that the cut is no where near smooth. | The edges are rough and if I put the cut faces back together, I can |see repeating gaps that almost look like teardrops. Upon further |examination, asI watch the blade cut through, I can see the kurf (hope |I'm using the term correctly) almost periodically widen and thin as it |moves through the wood. I can hear the blade whine a little bit louder |when the kerf widens, and then it quits down as it thins. Going extra |slow through the wood does not really help things. | |I'm using the stock blade that came with the saw and wonder if the |problem it that its a POS and I need to spend some $$$ on a decent |blade. The other thing I was condering was maybe vibration - the saw |stand is made from fairly thin steel, so I'm sure it's not the most |stable thing in the world. | |Can anyone confirm the problems and/or advise me on a solution? Thanks
It's "kerf".
It sounds like either/or your blade is warped or some teeth have lost their set.
The first thing I recommend is to unplug the saw then crank the blade to full height. Did I mention *unplug the saw*--- then crank the blade to full height. If you have a dial indicator, fix it to the table so it's in contact with the side of the blade just behind the teeth. Now rotate the blade by hand and see how much runout you have. I have a 15-year old Craftsman with a Freud combo blade that runs out
0.004" doing this test. Fine Woodworking Magazine did a test of top of the line contractor saws and measured similar runout using a precision test disk, so I think this is a decent number.
If, as I suspect you don't have a dial indicator, clamp a stick, pencil or similar object to the miter guage so that it just touches the blade at closest approach. Then rotate the blade to open the gap and estimate the runout. An ordinary playing card is 0.010" thick. Frankly I don't know what an acceptible number is but if it's under
0.010" I would think that would be just fine as a practical matter.
If you fail this test then I recommend dismounting the blade and checking to see that the arbor flange is clean and free of nicks. If you find a nick, dress it off and repeat the test. Check the blade support washer (on the nut side) for the same problem.
If you've ever run into a nail or something similar then you likely have bent and dulled some teeth. Close visual inspection should uncover this problem.
If you think you have a warped blade, the most cost effective thing do would be borrow one from someone else just to rerun the test and to make a couple of trial cuts. If this improves things then you can break out the credit card.
Good luck,
Wes Stewart