Table Saw Blade Selection.

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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"

found is that if that is what I really wanted I would have to have it made/altered. I am having a brain freeze at the moment but I think you want a "box joint" blade. I vaguely recall in my research that one company rep told me that "no one" actually makes one anymore because they have added anti-kickback/clearing attributes to every blade.
As Leon noted, Forrest will do that for you -- and I did check with them and the prices was not so much more than their off-the-shelf blades. A digression about Forrest: I sent them a few blades to sharpen and they called to say that one was not really dull. I figured it was already there so I had them sharpen it anyway, even though the difference would be marginal.
You might try CMT blades. You say that 24 teeth are not enough, but if you reconsider you might try this: http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtrip.htm
I am not sure what the final result is on this other CMT blade, but you can call the store and ask. (When I was researching, I found them helpful.) http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtcab.htm Here is the description: "The 10" x 60 Tooth CMT Cabinetshop Blade is sure to become a "standard" in the shop. The CMT Cabinetshop Blade, with alternating Triple Chip - Flat Top Grind and deeper gullet design, allows you to rip or crosscut with splinter free results in both hard and soft wood. Performs well also in laminates and plywood. The all-around performance of the CMT Cabinetshop Blade guarantees it will be an excellent value in a shop of any size." Not sure if this is what the wrec god Prometheus was referring to. HTH. -- Igor
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