Table Saw Blade Selection.

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I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24 to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints, etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good) 10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
Wayne
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I too had a collection of blades, until I bought the Forrest WW11. I found that I no longer changed blades. I used that blade for everything. It is the best blade I have ever used. max

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Except that it leaves a "V" bottom and the OP wants a flat bottom. Check the last sentence in the first paragraph.
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They will grind your blade any way you want.

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news:eg4td.55319> Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)

CALL FORREST... They will build and grind the teeth on a blade just about any way you would want it.
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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"

you likely will have to have it made. it's no big deal, and the cost will not be as bad as you think. look first for a local sharpening shop near you. if your town doesn't have one or they don't get it about building blades like that, look on the web.
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NoOne N Particular wrote:
<snipped>

I would think a good sharpening service should be able to grind and set the teeth any way you'd like?
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
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Thanks to all who responded to my query. It sounds like I will just have to have a sharpening service custom grind one for me. I have a couple of responses to some of you.
1. A couple suggested using the outside blade of a dado set. I have an SD208 and the outside blades are not flat. They are all bevelled downwards from the outside edge towards the center.
2. A couple suggested the triple chip grind. AKA TCG which I have. It is actually that grind that prompted me to ask the question. I had cut some mortices with my new Delta morticer (the little cheap one that I got for $90 at a Lowes). I cut the tenons on my table saw and when I was fitting the tenons into the mortices, they didn't quite seat all the way. It was just a hair off (red, not blond), but enough. When I examined the tenons, I noticed that there were very slight ridges along the sides of the tenon where the TCG blade did not clean the cut. It was easy enough to clean up with a chisel, but still . . . Now cross-cuts where I am cutting off the piece, TCG is great.
Just as a side note, I have read a couple of articles on the Internet that says the TCG was initially designed for cutting plastics like plexiglas and lexan, etc.
3. Have someone like Forrest custom grind a new blade? That would be GREAT, but not on my current budget.
4. CMT Cabinetshop blade. Hmmmmm. That sounds interesting.
Wayne

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Surprised no one has suggested using the end blades form a dado set like the Freud 508. It has two 8" x 1/8" outer blades that leave a nice flat-bottom groove and I use those. You may not need or want an 8" dado set so drop back to the Freud (or whoever) 6" set and you'll have solved the problem and end up with a nice dado set at the same time.
Bob S.

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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"

It's been a good long while since I worked in the sharpening business, but you might talk to your local sharpening service about the "triple chip" style blades. They're basically an alternating tooth set where the high tooth has the corners knocked off at 45 degrees on each side, and the low tooth (.01" lower) is flat. While that's not going to give you a *perfectly* flat-bottomed kerf, it'd be a lot closer than the standard crosscut tooth set. IIRC, these saws were for mitre cuts, but like I said, you'd want to talk to your local sharpening service before jumping on it- they make the suckers for a living, so they're usually a fount of information.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 20:52:29 -0600, Prometheus

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wrote:

They may call them that, but Cadillac used to use them to saw aluminum intake manifolds, so I imagine they're fairly functional. Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"

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If you have a decent sharpening service in your area, you can have them grind an ATB/raker combination blade so all the teeth including the rakers are the same height. I'm just guessing here that this will give better results than having all the teeth on an ATB or general purpose blade ground flat accross the top.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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Lew Wasserman writes:

And the raker will probably be a triple chip grind (TCG) to clean up the middle of the slot.
There are a few of those out there. Checking the blade manufacturers' sites might help the OP find what he wants without a regrind. I know that Infinity has such a grind, in their combination blade, with what they call a chamfered raker tooth that doesn't have quite as distinct a tombstone shape as do most TCG tips. www.infinitytools.com Freud has a flat top grind raker blade in some of their LU84 series blades. Bosch has a new series of blades that is not yet shown on their web site. Amana seems to me to be another with that type of configuration. Most seem to be in the combination blade arena, NOT the general use blade area, all with fairly agressive tooth angles--14 degs. up to about 18 degs.
Charlie Self "Vote: the instrument and symbol of a freeman's power to make a fool of himself and a wreck of his country." Ambrose Bierce
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Charlie Self wrote:

Now that you bring this up, can someone please shed some light on their different series'
I have a Freud LU84R011 10" x 50-Tooth Combination Blade on my table saw and love it.
I also have a 12" Freud Diablo for my Bosch CMS and a 7 1/4" on one of my circular saws. They are both very solid performers.
I also have a Forrest WWII thin kerf which I have yet to use.
I have searched for rip blades and crosscut blades and have shopped what seems like dozens of different red, chrome, black, metal colored, etc. Freud blades. They seem to be all over the place in pricing. In shopping for Freud blades, what is the pecking order in the different series? I don't suppose that I want to put a Diablo on my table saw. Any light on the subject would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric T
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Since you already have a Forrest WWII, why not put it on the saw and be done with it?
-j
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As I said, I haven't used it yet. I wasn't too gung ho on getting the thin kerf, but thats all they had in stock and I had a coupon only good that weekend. It was a good deal. I might see if they'll swap it when a regular kerf comes in. Otherwise, I'm gonna buy their stabilizer.
Basically, its just too damn cold and my garage is just too overcrowded to get any more projects in this winter. Therefore, I don't think that I'm gonna find out how I like it for a while.
I do like the Freud combo. However, it isn't the greatest for ripping through Oak. I think that I would like to get a good rip blade to hog through it. I probably don't really need a crosscut blade as the Freud works great. I assume that the Forrest will too. I'm also assuming that it won't be the greatest at ripping.
Eric
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Eric T asks:

Best bet: check www.freudtools.com and look over the woodworking and contractor grade blades.
The Diablo will work decently on a table saw, but IME, it's not made for that. You're better off with one of the other series. I've got a couple of their Premium series blades, which I find fantastic. I've got the 12" Hyper waiting for the blade on my Bosch 4412 SCMS to wear down a bit, but so far that looks like outlasting me.
Charlie Self "Vote: the instrument and symbol of a freeman's power to make a fool of himself and a wreck of his country." Ambrose Bierce
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Thanks Charlie. I'll check it out at freudtools. I've been trying to figure it out from Amazon. Price doesn't seem to be the answer. FWIW, I also love their router bits.
Eric
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