Table saw blade recommation

Well I read the article in FWW on table saw blades ,and got the "Everlast" blade .
This blade was rated second best to the Forrest WW2 blade which had a very slight performance edge, but at a cost of almost 50% of the Forrest blade . Obtaining better performance than the Freud blade I was using, was the object, and the price was reasonable [I would never consider paying upwards of $100 for a saw blade]
The blade will not rip as fast as a true rip blade but as a combination blade in my opinion it is hard to beat, for my purposes [I like to do most x cuts on the tablesaw]. The end cuts show no tooth marks at all ,in fact the cut almost has a sheen to it.
I cannot say if the blade is as good orbetter than the Forrest blade as I have never used one ,I am at the mercy of those who have done comparable tests ,such as FWW. At this point all I can say, having been a woodworker for a number of years it is the best blade I have used so far .
The cost around $60 -- mike hide
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[snip]
Thanks Mike. This type of post is a great part of this NG, and your post was quite clear and now bookmarked.
With my new DW746, I am in blade acquisition mode. I just received the WWI I ordered from Amazon -- WWI because I figured I could use it with my RAS, though I am having so much fun with the DW that I don't know when/if I'll ever go back. So, now I am thinking about returning the WWI and getting a WWII (or the Everlast?) -- though I still have not quite figured out the difference in results of the two Forrest blades.
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I found my FWWII blade 30t standard kerf rips faster then even my 20t blade in the tropicals I cut. I was pretty surprised with that.
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I know they do other blades. I have heard really good reports and a few bad reports about their sharpening. but you can have them to a test cut and straighten the blade and such too.
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The thing that makes the Forrest blade leave such a smooth finish is the clearance angles on the side of the tooth. This is never touched during sharpening so a local could sharpen it just fine. The difference though, is how smooth a grind job he does. If it is rather course, it will cut just fine but will not retain an edge nearly as long as if it were smoother. Considering some of the local sharpening shops' work I have seen, you would be better off sending it to Forrest. In any case, by sending it to them, if something goes wrong, there is no haggling over the lousy saw shop you took it to. Forrest will sharpen anyone's blade. Talk to them about prices.

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Man did you ever get burned in this thread!
And you didn't even get it with your response!
I just can't stop laughing!!! You guys are so cruel, but too damn funny!
Mike, *slap* *slap*, wake up!
Ciao, Michael

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Doesn't anyone use those Oldham Signature Series blades anymore? I haven't used mine in a thousand years but it produces a very smooth cut. What's happened that they've seemingly fallen out of favor here?
Renata
wrote:

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.
upwards
I usta say that.. Now I own 2 forrest WWII's ;~)

x
the
With the WWII I actually get a burnished sheen on cross cuts and rips.

I paid $35 more for the WWII..40 tooth reg kerf. Actually $41 more with shipping to my door.
I think where the WWII really shines is that it goes sooooo loooong between sharpenings.
Keep us up to dayt on how you like the blade and how it holds up.
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