Surprising Review - Chinese Delta 14" Bandsaw 28-206/276

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check herehttp://www.rideouttool.com/products.asp?id37&s=y

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For a real giggle, check out the bottom of that page, and the pricing on the "Wavetek Clamp-on Amp Meter"
The Delta 28-274C 14" bandsaw is listed near the bottom of the right-hand colum. at C $549. About US$400. Plus shipping. plus customs/clearance hassles. Between the two, it easily adds another $US100-150 to the cost.
US$500-550 "to the door, in a week or two", even if it saves a couple hours of 'fiddling', DOESN'T seem like much of a bargain, compared to the US $310 'take it home *today*' price that the original poster reported.
US$100/hr is _good_ pay for doing that 'fiddling'. :)

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Dan Parrell thus spake:

Model numbers are quite prominently displayed in the subject line...

Nope, wouldn't want to send any more money to you Canucks, eh? Besides, I bought a Ford that was assembled there - and among other things, they even put the seat belt buckles in backwards. ;-)
KC-1433FX - 629.00 + shipping. Looks more like a Grizzly or an OLD Delta to me. How does that equate to $310?? Besides, there are benefits in buying locally from my neighbors. One of these would be Instant Gratification - you know how impulsive we Yanks are.

Not the same company at all - I believe King buys Delta's old worn-out foundry setups and sells machinery similar to Delta's OLD products. Notice the plastic 2 1/2" dust port, for example. I COULD have bought a Grizzly G0555 for $374 + shipping, but I didn't. Besides, the fu#king around took all of 1 hour - Big Deal. Other than a lower wheel that was probably bent in transit, I did nothing that I wouldn't have had to do to ANY Chiwanese saw.

I scanned the web with that model number - old design, and an unspecified HP motor (10amp) that could be worse than what I've got! And does it have a TWO year warranty? Standardized parts? Universal motor mount design?
Talk about a pig in a poke, I've never even SEEN a King, and shipping another turd back to the great White North for another $120 wasn't in the stars.
As far as your ass goes, I'll pass. Dude, it was a joke! I'm revving you up. But by the same token, don't throw rocks at others decisions.
Greg G.
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check the xmas specials and "LOOK" at the 14'' delta <Greg G.> wrote in message

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Hi Greg - Thanks for the excellent review. Can you give some more detail on how you trued up the wheels? Thanks/Brian
Greg wrote: [snip]

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Brian Sullivan said:

You're welcome. I STILL can't believe how well it works for the $260 I've got in it. I was looking at the Grizzly G0555 because of the bad press this unit has received, but I am glad I got it. The only thing I would change at this point are the crappy tires, a bigger motor and extender kit.
I called Delta and the wheels are on backorder (read: on a slow boat from China) until MARCH. There was no way I was waiting that long to use this thing. So...
As for the wheels, pull the tires. Check run-out with a dial indicator - both radial and lateral. If your radial (around the wheel/diameter) run-out is excessive, it's a problem. There is no easy way to correct this. But the lateral run-out I corrected with (and don't scream when you read this) judicial application of a pry bar and pipe clamp. Go easy with it, you have to slightly OVER correct as aluminum flexes - until it breaks. Use a straightedge to determine which side to pull out or in, and work a little at a time. Apply pressure at or near the spokes on the outer hub. Find the high/low point of the error by rotating the wheel back and forth until located. Work it out a little at a time. Don't try to do it all in one stroke. Remember, aluminum cracks without warning, and you don't want to destroy the bearings either. My bottom wheel was out - I used the cast iron frame as the support. If the top wheel is out, it's more difficult. You will probably have to mount the wheel on a shaft in a vise and work with it. This is a neanderthal method, but it worked for me. I would estimate that run-out on the order of .005" or less would be smooth enough for enjoyable use.
For balancing the wheels, static balancing is sufficient. Place a rod with a centered point on the lower side which is the exact diameter of the center hole into the wheel and set on a table. The direction it consistently tips is the heavy side. Use a Dremel or die grinder to carefully remove metal from a non-critical area of the outer hub to lighten it. Just like you would balance a lawnmower blade. Continue until it will just about balance on the point. The wheels are relatively low speed, so this should suffice. If you have access to dynamic balancing equipment, so much the better.
Remember, the tires suck, and they will probably introduce some degree of blade vibration. Highland Hardware and other vendors sell new rubber and urethane tires. I believe they are interchangeable with the better Delta saws. ~ $25 each.
One more thing. If you fu%# it up, don't come crying to me! <g>
Good Luck,
Greg G.
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