Surprised at the fine print on Zinnsers - apply to ZERO degrees. (and other cold related questions)

Now that the cold has reached California, and my desk is ready for finishing, I've decided to spray shellac on all portions but the top and drawer fronts. Does shellac really apply and dry well at around 45 degrees?
I know better than to apply the poly at such a cold temp and wonder how I'm gonna finish this project now that it's cold. My shop will probably be around 55 degrees around the middle of the day; maybe 60 early afternoon.
Should I just give up the idea of poly and use conversion varnish with xylene or does that need a 70 degree minimum temp too?
How do you guys that don't have fully heated shops apply finishes in cold weather ? Is it good enough to just shine a heat lamp on the freshly sprayed surfaces, even though the application temperature is colder than a product's requirements? In other words could I spray poly at 45-50 degrees and then shine a heat lamp or a couple of 500W work lights at it.
dave
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Follow the instructions...celsius or farenheit? And boy, whilst that alcohol evaporates, it'll get even colder! Tom >Subject: Surprised at the fine print on Zinnsers - apply to ZERO degrees.

Someday, it'll all be over....
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Tom states:

Why is that a surprise: in the good old days, alcohol was THE antifreeze for cars.
Charlie Self
"I am not worried about the deficit. It is big enough to take care of itself. " Ronald Reagan
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On 22 Nov 2003 10:07:48 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comnotforme (Charlie Self) scribbled

And for people (think St. Bernard), but it turns out it's bad for you because, although it makes you feel warmer, it sends the blood to the surface and cools your inner core. It's also used for lock de-icers, for those who live in areas where that is needed.
Luigi Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
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Witness any snowmobiler. I had been scraping them up for over eight years before I had my first snowmobile accident involving sober riders.
in the good old days, alcohol was THE antifreeze for

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I think you would be much better off if you pick up a cheap space heater of one form or another. cold wheather finnishing brings all kinds of problems to the table. heat the shop up prior to finnishing so that the work is warm also. if you are worried about fire from the heater then you can turn it off while you finnish and use a finnish that dries fast. after the fumes have dissipated you can fire up the heater again. most finnishes need 70 degrees or better. skeez
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I was thinking about that last night and I could be mistaken, but wouldn't anything that burns fuel leave a ton of moisture in the air? Many years ago my garage was a rec room and I used a small electric heater (115V) to take the chill off. That heater drew the maximum amps allowable on a typical 110 circuit. It didn't do hardly anything even after running for over an hour, so I don't think an electrical heater will heat my shop enough to help.
Any suggestions?
dave
snipped-for-privacy@home.com wrote:

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Propane/Butane are the biggest offenders there. Electric puts out the driest heat I know of. Cost the most too.

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I just picked up a little Honeywell 1,500W unit with fan, remote, auto shut off; all for $39.99. the shop temp is up to 64 degrees now so I'm getting ready to spray the poly in a few minutes. As winter progresses, if the Honeywell doesn't do the job, I'll get a parabolic reflective resistance unit and aim it towards drying projects. I'll shut off the water heater gas and the electrical heaters while spraying, plus prop the garage door open a bit.
dave
Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:

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Have you considered a dehumidifier? It adds more heat than the electricity it consumes. The latent heat of evaporation of water which make evaporative coolers work, works in reverse in a dehumidifier and adds heat. And as a bonus you get drier air in your shop.
Art
wrote:

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That's interesting! (that dehumidification ADDS heat). I need to check the local weather info to see what our relative humidity has been. Usually it's not too high, although we had a spell of unusually high humidity this summer. thanks.
Today it's 49%. One source showed the average afternoon humidity for much of the year at 60%.
Another source says our current humidity is 35 %. Yet another lists it much higher.
dave
Wood Butcher wrote:

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Watch out for them fumes. We wouldn't want you to be impaired and write something you might get tarballed on ;)
I would pick up a nice little heater capable of warming up your garage. Rainy season is just upon you and it would also take the edge off those cool damp northern California days during January.
Rich

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Rich, as I was just telling Skeez, many years ago my garage was a rec room and an portable 115V heater wouldn't heat up the room enough. I guess I could look into 220V heaters...I'll check HD today.
dave
RKON wrote:

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Those recommendations for temperature on finish-container labels are there for a reason. In some cases, the finish will never properly cure if applied when it is too cold. You'll save yourself a lot of grief by getting your project and its environment up to the proper temperature.
The main problem with heat lamps is hot spots and cold spots. It seem to me that uneven heating could potentially cause more finishing problems than an overall cold.
Those electric oil-filled radiators (that look kind of like old-fashioned steam radiators) appear to be pretty efficient for heating up a space. SWMBO uses on in her detached art studio. They don't put any moisture into the air and have no exposed elements, so you don't have to woory about fumes - except breathing them, of course.
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I've brushed shellac at 5C without any problems.
Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
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Trust me. Bay Area Dave KNOWS if ANYONE does.
On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:48:46 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (Ken Muldrew) wrote:

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Did just that the other day and it set off just like normal..
Rob
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I sprayed some a few nights ago. Seemed to be fine. Do it in the afternoon and it will be dry in the afternoon.
-Jack

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I got 4 coats on in 2 days at 65 degrees. I was able to sand at 4 to 4 1/2 hours after each coat. Except for some pinholes in 2 out the 5 pieces, it came out fine.
Tonight I opened up the garage door and sprayed shellac on the drawer sides. What a pleasant experience instead of that sticky poly floating around inside the shop with the doors just cracked a smidge to keep the temp around 65.
dave
JackD wrote:

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