sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps are the
only ones worth it
the quick release ratcheting clamps with the pistol grip are no good and have
but i have a tiny set of the pistol-grip ratcheting clamps and i find uses for
them for small stuff
i was hand planing and went off the edge and caused a splinter
the splinter did not come free so i put a dab a glue and a small clamp
and it was just right
Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...
There are several resellers; as the above article notes they've
deliberately chosen to not go direct...
I've some of unknown manufacturer that are t-bar rails like the best old
cabinet clamps with a very hard/stiff Al (I presume aircraft) alloy.
But afaict there's nobody currently manufacturing such any longer.
These were obtained from the shop of the old codger in Lynchburg of whom
I've spoken previously when he was beginning to slow down and starting
to limit the size and quantity of work he was doing. They're all 48"...
that that 25+ years ago.
If you click on the B&W inset photo and enlarge you can make out
Universal Clamp Company on the side of the screw end of the clamp.
Those are mine exactly. They are OK but have small clamping heads and
the bars bend easily. I have the 48 and 72 inch varieties.
You must have a _much_ higher res monitor than I to be able to make
anything whatever out of what the casting actually says... :)
I've not used the Dubuque's simply know they've been rated pretty highly
and that Lee Valley says they're quite stiff and ime that's generally
pretty reliable assessment...
I'm certain they're not as stiff as an old t-bar cabinet clamp and that
if you're trying to squeeze the be-jxxx out of a heavy panel glue they
can be caused to flex but I'd think them likely to be more than adequate
for most work.
Anyway, they're surely bound to be far better than the HF or local Ace
Chinese variety or even the Jorgy's...
27". And while not perfectly in focus, zoomed in you can see the
individual letters and the L on the end of Universal.
They are not bad clamps for light duty work and probably better in
shorter sizes but you have to clamp them down to the work on longer
pieces so that they do not bow. This is especially true with thin panel
And they are certainly light weight. One thing I especially do not care
for is the ratchet end. I moves in increments of approximately 1/2 the
screw travel. I found myself having to walk from one end to the other a
time or two to get the moveable end in a location that did not reach the
limit of the screw end in either direction. If you are in a hurry to
set the clamps in a complicated glue up this is a bit nerve racking.
;~) Just food for thought. I pretty much quit them altogether when I
started collecting the K-body style clamps.
had never heard of these
i read a review on one of their odd clamps with the novel grip mechanism
the reviewer complained that the face of the clamp left a mark on his
i guess he never heard of scrap
maybe they have the guy at the store cut everything to final fit
Or more likely, the reviewer expected them to be similar
to the Bessy K-Body clamps, where it is unnecessary to
protect the work from the clamp face.
Aside from Dubuque being a very pretty place (particularly
arriving from US 61 N), those clamps are quite nice and
affordable. The small clamp face does require clamping
pads to avoid marring the work.
If you consider Iowa to be flat, you've never been to Dubuque.
TRUE! Same style Jet clamp, Not so true. If Jet would fix this their
clamps would be great with more features than Bessey and the Cabinet
I used the exact same aluminum clamps for years and oddly I don't ever
recall the clamps faces marring the work and I did not use scraps. In
fact the only clamps that I have used that do mar the wood are the Jet
clones and the old style pipe clamps.
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 11:39:17 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Having not used any of the 3 aforementioned clamps, this question comes
from a deep, deep state of ignorance...
How hard would it be to fashion a "false front" for the Jet clamps to
eliminate the marring?
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)
Couldn't something be done with the Jet clamps to turn them into the
superior clamps that you want them to be?
Probably not too hard but certainly harder than simply buying the same
priced Jorgensen Cabinet Master clamps. The only advantage that the Jet
has IHMO in this comparison is that it has a release trigger that holds
the moveable end in place. And that is not that is not that big of a
deal. If the Jet's came with the non mar surface they would get the nod.
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by necess
ity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal faces of o
ur Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white pine on them (fr
om the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a champ, and got the a
dditional clamping power of making a jaw as wide as you wanted. Since we us
ed a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing houses (think shingle molding and
vent trims) we simply cut off six inch pieces as needed and screwed them on
the faces when we were doing cabinet work. They did great as they spread
the compressed load across a surface more evenly, and even added to the uti
lity of the clamp by its increased jaw size.
With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick tape wo
uld do the trick.
I just got accustomed to using a full-length caul resting on the clamp
bodies so never worried about the individual pads...it's still so
ingrown a practice I don't even think of pads...guess everybody grows up
project. BUT I do use a couple of pieces of plywood for helping to
insure that rails fit properly at the ends of stiles on cabinet doors.
And that uses 8 clamps initially and then just 2 once everything is
i had never seen cauls until recently
might have been lee valley but not sure
they were not cheap but i like the idea it is clever and gives some
more versatility to the clamps i have
did you buy them or make them
what wood species are they made from
i would guess oak or ash or hard maple
maybe kiln dried too
any other tips tricks etc about them you can share would be good
Buying a caul seems pretty silly for a woodworker.
You do realize that woodworkers were quite successful without
pipe clamps, fancy K-bodies or any manufactured clamp?
Consider what you can do with a couple of wedges and a caul,
The caul should be slightly sprung.
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