Subfloor thickness for 3/4" wood floor question

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The Porta Nailer can't be used from a wheelchair. Also, I maybe shouldn't have said "old days." My parents house built in the mid 70's had the 1/2 inch 5/8 inch I discussed. My house built in the early 90's and added on to and renovated in 2002 is all 3/4 TG. I'm 35 so there is my perspective when I say old days.
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Old days! no way. The subfloor of 1" material ran at 45 degrees to the joists. Sometimes a second floor of 1" material ran at right angles to the bottom layer. The finished wood floor on top of that ran mostly at a right angle to the joists are at least parallel with one of the walls, except for parquets. Oh, they didn't have plywood or chipboard in the Old Days. :)
greasy snipe wrote:

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Actually, in the old days, they didn't bother putting subfloor under T&G flooring at all a lot of the time. The last house I lived in had T&G YP upstairs & handhewn beams supporting it that were exposed. The big problem we faced was dust sifting down. It was a mess, but solid. All lengths ended on a joist, but since they were logs, you had 6 - 8".
It's been a while since I've done any flooring, but if it were me, I'd make my decision based on the flooring. I'd want the flooring to all end on a joist. If you're doing oak, you tend to get random lengths & ending them on a joist is going to be impossible. You used to be able to get Yellow Pine in full lengths & that would be possible to end on joists & it's strong enough. Ditto with cherry.
Jim
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Jim wrote:

The house I grew up in had T&G with no subfloor. This was in Florida, and it was one of those houses that's up on brick posts with a crawlspace under, not a concrete foundation like you find in New England and other places where the water table can be counted on to be lower than the ground.
My Dad got the bright idea to put down some vinyl flooring in the front entryway. The book he got said to stick it down but it seemed to be OK at first and he decided not to. Then the first northeaster of the season hit and the vinyl blew about four feet up into the air on the wind coming through the cracks in the boards. He stuck it down after that.
He never did quite grasp the concept of "infiltration loss" though.

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It's been a while since I've done any flooring, but if it were me, I'd make my decision based on the flooring. I'd want the flooring to all end on a joist. If you're doing oak, you tend to get random lengths & ending them on a joist is going to be impossible. You used to be able to get Yellow Pine in full lengths & that would be possible to end on joists & it's strong enough. Ditto with cherry<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Wouldn't it be great if the lengths of 3/4" flooring all ended right on top of a joist? You are right, that would be almost impossible I would think, I can only imagine those pieces that end between the joists and placing the leg of a heavy piece of furniture right on the soft spot.
I want to thank all you guys for the real good tips and I will take them all into consideration when I make the decision.
Gil
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gil wrote:

The toungues, grooves, and subfloor work together to spread out the weight.
Barry
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Re-floor with 1 1/8" thick, and 4' x 8' wide Sturdy Floor. This is a tongue and groove wood product that prevents squeakin. You can find it at your local building supply. I used it 15 years ago and still no squeaks. 8500 sq' two story full basement house with 6 kids running and jumping all the time.
Jack

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