Stupid cherry aging question...

To me it looks like he glued a piece of paper on the mirror.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Reply to
Nova
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Reply to
Fly-by-Night CC

Nah. It's the reflection of a fabric light box.

Reply to
Fly-by-Night CC

Dear Mr. Shim,

I just might do that.

I think you might remember the QSWO clock I made that I fumed, I was quite happy with the results. I have a recollection of wiping ammonia on cherry and it turning it green, or maybe that was red oak, I am not sure.

I will set up a small test chamber to do a Radiomagic test.

I am making the clock for two reasons. To give as a gift to a friend who I will most likely never see again and to write about how to build it and to hopefully get my third magazine article published. If I do fume, I will have to break the article into a two parter. One to build the clock and two to finish it, which isn't too a bad thing really.

Is there anything you can remember written in any of the finishing books about fuming cherry? I know all I need to know about how to do it to WO, but I am just wondering what the differences, if any, there might be when doing cherry? What is so nice about the fuming process is how deep the colour goes, you can sand a little if necessary and not break through the colour layer.

Thanks for the suggestion Owen, I hadn't thought of fuming. I will keep everyone ('cept BAD, he don't like my updates) posted on what I am doing and how things work out.

David.

Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.

Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.

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Reply to
David F. Eisan

Good Morning, David:

"Accelerated weathering tests are performed with a QUV device equipped with spray nozzles and A-340 fluorescent light tubes. Exposure cycle:

5 hours' UV light at 60degC (black panel) and 1 hour spray at room temperature. UV light exposure tests are performed with A-340 tubes in dry conditions or with filtered Xenon light sources."

The above is excerpted from:

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Tom. Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
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Reply to
Tom Watson

I do remember your WO clock and how taken you appeared with fuming. Red Oak does have a tendency to green up when fumed - but a garnet shellac will work at cancelling out the color cast.

I don't believe I've ever read anything pertaining to cherry fuming. I treat it just like I do WO. No muss, no fuss. I use blueprint strength (28%+/-) and, IIRC, seem to let it run for 8-12 hours. I like a deep tone.

I tried a test fume of some Black Walnut, thinking it had a high tanin content and would provide some dramatic effects... no such ruck. The test did deepen the color somewhat and it _is_ pretty, but I'm not sure I'd go that route for a piece. More testing needed.

Reply to
Fly-by-Night CC

On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 09:04:51 -0800, Fly-by-Night CC brought forth from the murky depths:

Gee, did it go from dark brown to dark black? DOH! =:0

-------------------------------------------------- I survived the D.C. Blizzard of 2003 (from Oregon) ----------------------------

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

That's what I expected, but NO. It went from dark brown to just the slightest tad darker brown. Not much of a difference at all. I think I'll try it with a couple pieces of mixed sap and heartwood as well as a different tree.

Reply to
Fly-by-Night CC

Look closer, it's not a mirror.

Reply to
CW

It's a portal to another dimension.

Reply to
Fly-by-Night CC

Owen Lowe responds:

Of course it is. How do they think you got here?

Charlie Self "Ain't no man can avoid being born average, but there ain't no man got to be common." Satchel Paige

Reply to
Charlie Self

Charlie Self schreef

  • + + Since the idea is to pass off the cherry as a mahogany substitute this is a method that historically is eminently correct. PvR
Reply to
P van Rijckevorsel

PvR responds:

True, but...somehow, the elegant deep red of mahogany (and cherry) ahs been transformed by the U.S. furniture industry into a solid black that may get 3 drops of red pigment per 50 gallons of finish. It's not really ugly, but it's also not really cherry or mahogany. But, then, neither is the wood used, so I guess that's fair.

Charlie Self

"Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of things." Sir Winston Churchill

Reply to
Charlie Self

The cherry stains used by furniture factories look fake next to my cherry pieces that have aged naturally over time. These factory pieces may just as well be painted and/or made from plywood. Recently my sister-in-law asked about the wood grain lines in my table. She never saw naturally-aged cherry wood!

Reply to
Phisherman

Sorry if this is the original "option" but I didn't see the original post...

Aging with Lye works VERY well and is extemely easy to do. I used about

1 of the plastic spoons of lye to a cup of water and then just sponged it on after planing and again after sanding.

If you are seeing any residual lye after it dries, your using too much lye (or not enough water).

Jim "P van Rijckevorsel" wrote in news:3fae0c12$0$165$ snipped-for-privacy@news.wanadoo.nl:

Reply to
Jim

I have tried the catalyzed two part aging stuff (sold through Woodworkers Supply - search for "old growth"). It produces a nice warm tint that looks nice. My oldest try with it is about a year old now. I would use it again.

Jim K.

Jim wrote:

Reply to
James T. Kirby

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