Stuck motor shaft key on Delta CS... any ideas?

[Pet Quality]

Hi All,

I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.

To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some spray lubricant, the set screw came out.

The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.

I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.

Any suggestions?

PQ

[Leon]

Do you need to remove the key? Normally the key only keeps the pulley from spinning on the shaft.

[Upscale]

It's possible you might need something like a gear puller. Before you get to that stage though, you might try a spray can of some type of freezing agent on the motor shaft.

[Bernard Randall]

First as Leon queried, do you really need to take it out?

If you do, one method I have used, not elegant and will probably need a new key, grip the key real tight with a vise grip then you can possibly use a lever under one of the jaws of the grip, or you can tap on it.

Bernard R

[Mike Patterson]

Freeze spray (I think Radio Shack sells it) on the shaft and key, heat on the pulley, and tap, tap, tap.

Also, are you sure the key comes out in the direction you think it does?

Good luck.

Mike Patterson Please remove the spamtrap to email me.

[bridger]

a little judicious application of the torch to the key, followed by a long soak in penetrating oil may help.

[Pounds on Wood]

Are you sure there is only one setscrew? That means either, a second hole in the pulley, or a second screw under the one you removed, or maybe both.

[Mark Hopkins]

Heat it with a torch and then rub a candle on it while still hot. The wax will get right in there and free up the key...

[Pet Quality]

Thank you all for the suggestions! To answer a couple of previous questions, I'm pretty confident it's the only set screw, because I have the original manual for the CS and for installation it only refers to tightening one. I can see the top of the key in the hole left by removing the one set screw, so there really isn't anywhere else for another to go. Plus, the replacement pully has only one, though admittedly that's not necessarily relevant.

As far as I know I need to remove the key. The pulley certainly isn't budging with the key in place, and to my knowledge it's the pressure of the key against the motor shaft that keeps the pulley on there.

I'll give some of these suggestions a try - thanks again!

PQ

[bridger]

whatever you do don't try to drive the pulley off of the shaft with a hammer. get a pulley puller. it'll come right off.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

You're trying to remove the key with the pulley in place???? That is a problem. Put a puller on the pulley if you can't tap it off and chances are, the key will fall out. The key stops rotation. Ed

[Pounds on Wood]

I'm certain that you are mistaken about removing the key first. Yes, the setscrew will be on the key, but the key does not hold the pulley in position axially, only torsionally. Pull the pulley with a puller (hmm, say that 5 times fast). The key will then pull right out, although you can just reuse it with the new pulley. Incidentally, they are hard to get off for a good reason.

[mike]

Is the pulley off yet? If so then hit with a large punch and hammer. If it breaks any hardware store carries them. If the pulley is still on and penetrating sprays don't work, then heat the shaft with a heatgun or slightly with a torch. The key will tap out then. mike

[Pet Quality]

I'll be trying the heating method tomorrow morning. I actually don't have a good heat source, need to go to the Borg and get a torch.

I'll post results as soon as I have some...

PQ

[Pet Quality]

The nature of my request has changed. Even with a torch I have been absolutely unable to get the key out or pulley off, and in fact succeeded only in driving the pulley all the way to the back of the motor shaft, at which point it became stuck completely on the shaft - and after trying every method I could think of to make it budge even a tiny bit, I lost my temper.

I'll spare you all the details, but suffice it to say that this motor will not be enabling any more woodworking activities, ever. This has turned out to be a very, very expensive "cheap and simple upgrade". But frankly it's par for the course for me - every "mechanical" project I get myself into ends up taking 10x as long as it should, and costing 10x as much. So it's really no surprise to me to end up in this situation.

Now that I've calmed down a little (but only a little), does anyone have a suggestion on what to use for a replacement motor on a Delta CS? The lowest price I see on the 'net is about $250 shipped for the Delta part (62-044). Something tells me I can do better than that, by going with some other, comparable make or model.

Any suggestions? (please don't say 'take the motor to your delta dealer and have it fixed', I'm fairly certain at this point that this would not be economically viable.)

Thanks,

PQ

[George]

Baldor is certainly comparable in quality, if not better. Another highly respected brand is Leeson. Make sure you buy the same type (TEFC or whatever it is) with the same mounting frame (56 or whatever).

[Pounds on Wood]

Grizzly sells Leeson at a pretty good price. They also sell an import motor which I have purchased and been satisfied.

--

[Leon]

Have you tried breaking the pulley off yet?

[Greg O]

It sounds like it may be too late! Greg

[Tom Veatch]

What? No pictures???

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA