Stripping polymerized linseed oil


Hi all,
I goofed when applying a polymerized linseed oil/beeswax topcoat. I got sidetracked and did not properly wipe off the excess before it dried. So now it's very sticky. I've been stripping some of it off (along with the stain :/) with Strip Kleen varnish remover, but it's very slow going. MEK also requires lots of time, elbow grease, and gloves. Is there something easier?
Thanks in advance.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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Michael White wrote:
> > I goofed when applying a polymerized linseed oil/beeswax topcoat. I got > sidetracked and did not properly wipe off the excess before it dried. So > now it's very sticky. I've been stripping some of it off (along with the > stain :/) with Strip Kleen varnish remover, but it's very slow going. MEK > also requires lots of time, elbow grease, and gloves. Is there something > easier?
Possibly acetone, but it still requires gloves, terry towels, and lots of elbow grease.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

Lew,
Thanks - that stuff did the job best of all. I finished the job in an hour, versus with the Strip Kleen, I did about a quarter of it in an hour. I went through quite a few of those disposable gloves, though.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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Michael White wrote:
> Lew, > > Thanks - that stuff did the job best of all. I finished the job in an hour, > versus with the Strip Kleen, I did about a quarter of it in an hour. I > went through quite a few of those disposable gloves, though.
When it comes to the ketones, acetone has the most "zip" compared to MIK, MEK, etc.
Glad things worked out.
Lew
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And they make it in 4 grades, too:
1. Low strength acetone
2. Medium strength acetone
3. High strength acetone,
and, 4. for those really, really, tough jobs,
KICK ACETONE.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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