Stopped cut on a tablesaw?

I was wondering if anyone has come up with a good way to make a stopped cut on a table saw (say for example to cut an L-shaped piece). The best I can figure is:
1) raise the saw-blade as high as possible 2) make some test cuts to see where the saw blade will be on top when it reaches the stop point on the bottom 3) mark a line on the top to stop cutting at the stop point on the bottom. 4) cut 5) clean out the end of the cut with a hand-saw 6) ask Santa for a bandsaw
Can anyone suggest ideas for making the cut easier or more accurate?
Thanks, Dan
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Dear Santa, Thanks for all of the gifts in the past. I've been good this year and would love to have a new 18" bandsaw. Please send me a Jet or Delta. I promise to make some special Christmas gifts in the future.
Thank you, Dan
PS I still believe in you!
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What about getting the new 14" Grizzly?

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Sorry Ace, My experience with Grizzly keeps them off my list. YMMV Dave
Ace asked:

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On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 21:41:15 +0000, Ace wrote:

When you're asking Santa for new toys, you go for broke. Didn't you pretty much ask Santa for "one of each" when you were a kid?
Watch:
Dear Santa,
I've been a very, very good boy this year. I ate all of my veggies, helped others when the opportunity arose, and worked really hard to raise the GNP of 'Merica. This is what I'd like for Christmas:
Cresent bandsaw in restorable condition, preferably with working motor. 12" or larger jointer, any make. Large, stationary drum sander. Unisaw, pre 1970 with 5hp Baldor. 1000 bf of wood, comprised of curly cherry, quilted maple, figured mahogany, and burls of various species.
Of course, Santa, as you well know (with you're Naughty/Nice radar) that I have nowhere to place such items. Therefore I ask for the additional items, because I've been so very, very good:
40' x 60' dedicated woodshop with three-phase service, heated and air-conditioned, with front and back double-doors large enough to drive a pickup truck into and a loading dock to the side. Land to place a 40' x 60' shop, preferable obtained by bulldozing the home of the annoying neighbors nearby.
Thank you ever so much Santa. Once the above has been delivered, I'll release Donner, per our previous agreement.
Merry Christmas!
--
Joe Wells


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Alas, in recent years Santa has begun using _my_ credit card when selecting my presents.
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wrote:

Santa lives in Lapland. If you're lucky you might get some masur birch, but you can forget the tropicals.
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On Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:28:30 -0800, "Daniel Grieves"

Cut it with a very nicely with a router, straight edge, and some sort of straight bit. Lacking a router, I'd use a hand saw or jigsaw.
Stopped cuts on a table saw can get scary in a hurry. They can be done, but there are many things that can go wrong, resulting in damaged work or possible injury.
Barry
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Number 6 was close. Amend it to read, "Ask SWMBO for a band saw". You'll be happier, so she'll be happier. :)
David
Daniel Grieves wrote:

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On Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:28:30 -0800, "Daniel Grieves"

If you HAVE to do it that way, cut them as close to the cuts meeting as safe, using stop blocks on miter or rip fence, then finish the cuts with a flush cut saw of jigsaw.. YMMV
I've done production cuts on my trusty shopsmith with 1x6's standing on edge and cutting 1/2 way through them, but only with a LOT of feather boards, clamps and guards...
Having 2 or 3 inches of spinning blade exposed and my hands being anywhere near it is NOT my idea of fun!
Oh.. last year, we did do something like you're talking about... had to "notch" a bunch of 2x6's for a deck railing... We did the ripping part of the notch on the RAS... pretty much the same as a TS, then used my CMS, with the depth stop set 2 inches above the table, to do the cross cut... cleaned up the resulting notch with a touch or 3 on the 1" belt grinder... a hand saw would work fine for That.. (or for the whole "L" cut... lol)
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