Started my next Unisaw rebuild *pic's*


I started the tear down on one of my Unisaws today. This one came from a prision. I looked, but I didn't find any carved soap guns or knives in it :). To just look at it, it looks pretty sad,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/rustysaw.jpg
I cleaned up the top with Top Saver.
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/cleansaw.jpg
Wow, does this stuff work well and it doesn't smell like puke like the Walter product I used to use did.
I checked the arbor for runout,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/runout.jpg
and while it wasn't too bad, I am going to replace it anyway (I already have a new one). One of the problems I have found with institutional Unisaws is that the threads the blade sit on near the flange are usually worn and the blade/arbor fit has some slop. This one is no exception, the ACME threads are worn. The arbour is very hard to turn by hand, the bearings are totally shot.
I took the saw totally apart,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/allapart.jpg
The guts of the saw are really in very good shape, nothing broken and very little wear on the gears. You can see the new Baldor 3hp motor beside the old 575v 2hp one. This Baldor is a *big* motor. I also have a new Danfoss mag starter for the saw. You can see a DeWALT sliding table and a Biesemeyer splitter as well. The new General T-Square (Biesemeyer) fence is in the basement still, as is the Delta mobile base.
Check out the serial tag,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/serial.jpg
I have to figure out a way to preserve and re-use the prison tag.
I will take a piece of the saw with me to the paint store in the next few days and have them mix me up some Delta Gray. I have not spoken to him yet, (yoohoo, Mike!) but I hope a friend of mine will be able to paint the saw for me this week. Otherwise, I will borrow a Turbinair HVLP from work and try my hand at painting. I will also get new bearings and have the arbors swapped this week at a local machine shop I do business with all the time.
Note that this saw has a cast iron base on it, it is fairly old.
I hope to have it up and running in just a week or so, I have wanted a sliding table for a long time!
David.
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I embarked on the same project today, but out of necessity. The other day when cutting some tenon checks my trusty Atlas (vintage early 1950's) cabinet saw made a "random width adjustment." I thought maybe I had screwed up and made the sacraficial fence a sacrafice. When I went to take off the dado blade & put on the saw blade, the arbor had shifted 1/4 inch to the right. Figured I trashed the bearings so disassembly seemed in order.
With a longstanding broken motor adjustment bolt, I had to disassemble from the top down and finally got the motor off. Both the motor and arbor double v-belt pulleys were canted (but parrallel)and jambed on. The problem turned out to be only a arbor collar loosing it's allen screw.
So with only two pieces of cypress to rip to finish my chairs for the deck, I now have my trusty saw in as many pieces as you. It seems that in addition to a single allen screw for the collar, I need new double v-belt pulleys. Grizzly seems to be the only source, so while I wait for them I'll be wire brushing and repainting also. I'll post some picts also when I'm moving along. All I have now is a less organized pile of parts than you :)
Talked to SWMBO about Unisaw for Father's Day, but my old pile of Atlas parts looked a lot like your old Unisaw parts and in the 25 years I've owned it, it's been spot on. I didn't touch the trunion bolts so when it goes back together (I hope), it should remain parallel.
Mine came from an old Italian cabinetmaker, no history like prison inventory tags, but for a 50+ year old saw it's pretty slick.
Jerry
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Jerry McCaffrey <publicatsimoogledotcom> wrote in
<snip>

<snip>
I have a 2002-vintage Unisaw, purchased new. I cannot imagine that your Atlas, with some TLC, wouldn't do everything that my new machine does. And with a bit more panache. Not everyone has a 50 year old cabinet saw from an old Italian cabinetmaker. My saw learned its habits only from me. :-)
Patriarch
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"Jerry McCaffrey" <publicatsimoogledotcom> wrote in message

I find the best way to clean up the top is with a palm sanderand 150 paper .[220 if you prefer] .Once you end up with bright steel give it a couple of good coats of good past wax applied with steel wool......I greased the moving parts with dry graphite lube .....mjh
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Actually, I've become somewhat of a expert at top cleaning. The "best" placement in my basement shop for the table saw is directly below our laundry room and bathroom. It seems that every two years someone overflows something above & I have "rain" on the saw. That has been one reason (other than outright cheapness) why I keep the old saw. Yes you are correct, ROS with ~150 grit works wonders. I also wetsand with WD40 and that slurry even works better it seems. Just paste waxed the jointer table the other day, should probably do the TS more often.
On reassembly maybe I'll try the dry graphite on the height and tilt screw shafts since they pick up crude. The arbor was packed with 50 year old grease that was still clean & functional, so I'll just repack there.
Thanks for your comments.
Jerry
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On Sat, 7 May 2005 20:22:48 -0700, "David F. Eisan"

There's no one hiding inside, I hope!
Barry
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On Sat, 7 May 2005 20:22:48 -0700, the inscrutable "David F. Eisan"

Cool serial killer serial tag! ;) I wouldn't try to remove it.
Carefully mask around it, coat it with wheel bearing grease, remove the masking, and spray the base. Once dry, the paint-covered grease will easily wipe off the preserved sticker.

Why doncha paint it a NICE color instead, Davey? Pretty please?
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On Sun, 08 May 2005 07:03:34 -0700, Larry Jaques

If you don't have wheel bearing grease on hand, Vaseline works equally well and may be easier to clean up.

Maybe he's trying to keep it true to its heritage. [I don't particularly care for Ford gray, but if I restore my 9N, it's going to get painted to the original color]
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On Sun, 08 May 2005 13:35:24 -0700, Mark & Juanita

As does latex paint, if the item to be protected is metal.
Apply latex THICK, trim with Xacto or razor blade, paint with enamel, peel off latex.
If really want to go all out, a modified latex paint product sold as "Liquid Masking Film" is sold in art, hobby, and auto / cycle paint shops. Paint it on, trim it, peel off undesired coverage, paint as normal, peel off mask.
Grease is cheap, but it'll mess things up if it gets where it shouldn't.
Barry
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On Sun, 08 May 2005 13:35:24 -0700, the inscrutable Mark & Juanita

I'll -not- ask why you know that, Mark. ;)

I can't stand gray, so nothing I refinish is ever going to be that color, TYVM.
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On Sun, 08 May 2005 19:22:08 -0700, Larry Jaques

It's best that you don't. :-)

Traumatized by a gray cat when you were a youngster Larry?

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On Sun, 08 May 2005 21:38:54 -0700, the inscrutable Mark & Juanita

Oy vay!

No, but I lived far too close to a Navy base then. Everything was gray. Then I worked 3 years for a company where the walls, ceilings, and furniture (even the workbenches) were all the same shade of gray. It was ghastly. (Palomar Technology in Carlsbad) I think I also equate it with cold Russian skies and large commie wimmenz. And now all the car interiors are gray and...
Gray: It's a commie PLOT about world domination, I tell ya.
LJ--who already has seen enough gray to last half a dozen lifetimes.
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<sniperoo>

Someone who painted "Dina" that butt-ugly green doesn't have a whole lot to talk about!
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Nahmie
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On Mon, 9 May 2005 16:34:57 -0400, the inscrutable "Norman D. Crow"

Hey, Twisted Turquoise is the Davis & Wells default color. I sure like it better than gray, lemme tell ya.
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Errmmm, David...seeing as you are posting to the Federated website, that must mean you are associated with them somehow?(That's cool because Federated is my Fein supplier)... but does that mean you are going to rebuild that monster band-saw at some point?
<G>
Rob
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Rob,

I am the sales manager there. Might we have met? I am the 6', thin, 35'ish guy at the counter all the time.
I would like to see that big Grob metal cutting bandsaw redone like the General 24" planer we have in the show room. That is such a cool machine, on board welder and 40-4000 FPM.
David.
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OK now answer this question honestly now. How many extra screws nuts, bolts and washers were left after re-assembling the unisaw? Curious minds want to know?
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