I recently put together a small pedestal for SWMBO to place plants on. One
problem I had was when I mitered the 45 degree sides of the wood (Red Oak).
I got lots of splintering and the edge ended up being very rough. I was
mitering with the grain as the post is about 28" high. Is there a trick to
reducing the splintering when mitering with the grain?
Shawn in Moscow (Idaho that is)
(reply in group please)
I'm still not getting a clear picture of what's going on here. a miter
is a corner joint where the boards meet (more or less) end grain to
end grain. I can't picture "mitering with the grain". were you perhaps
using your router to chamfer corners?
splintering during test fitting would seem to indicate something like
too tight of jointery or rough handling.
more info please....
On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 14:33:00 -0700, Bridger wrote:
To correct your picture, rotate your boards 90 degrees. I was not mitering
end-grain, but long-grain. I wanted to avoid having to glue up five 6"
wide boards, so I mitered some 6" boards length-wise.
still not working.
were you scarfing boards together?
the only way I can see mitering boards together lengthwise would
result in either an "L" , a "U" or a square tube. or, I suppose a tube
of some other number of sides.
if you were simply making wide boards out of narrow ones, that would
be a butt joint.
maybe if you gave a more general description f the project and the
steps you've taken I'll be able to see what you're up to.
Ah, now I see. I must have missed the part about the pedestal.
sometimes I'm so dense I amaze myself...
So the thin edges splintered after ripping on the saw... what was the
One approach to assembling such a thing involves the use of packing
tape or similar. Lay out the parts points touching and apply strips of
tape along what will be the outside surface of the tube. Flip it over
and spread glue, then roll it up and stretch more tape around it to
hold it 'till the glue dries.
I'd be inclined to make an over length tube and cut the ends after
gluing it up.
Some people like to use gorilla glue for oak because it foams up and
fills little gaps. There's no strength to the glue in the gaps, but
the foam is about the right color to match (white) oak and kinda takes
stain like it too. YMMV.
If you want to fill the splinters rather than rounding the corners I'd
suggest using grain filler on the whole piece.
Mitering is mitering, whichever way the grain runs.
In his case, he had the grain running vertically and
mitered WITH the grain. With a highly textured wood
such as oak, it splinters considerably more that way.
Slightly rounding the corners (1/16" roundover router
bit used after gluing/drying) or lots of flat sanding
will fix it while leaving sharp corners.
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recommending to apply some tape to the edge to prevent a end grain "blow
out". Email me if this is similiar to the problem you are having and I will
provide you with the name of the book. It was wriiten by the router lady.
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