Source for dyed (green) bottle stopper blanks

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i've made some for my glass work, and worked with ruth on her steel tab design for glassworkers. i get between 25 and 40 for them, depending upon if they're 2 sided and how much glass i've added. my last batch of stoppers cost me about .90/each but the plating is incredibly thin, discolors, corrodes, and peels off, so you really do get your money's worth.
here's what i used: http://www.partyandweddingfavors.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9
regards, charlie http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I'm thinking I'll have to raise my prices by $5 for the SS, maybe that much for boxelder since that's no longer available. That'll give me a range from $20-35 and a better feel for what the market will handle.
My feeling is $25, maybe $30 is going to be the point of resistance. I also had a number of cigar pens at nationals ($45). Several lookers but only one buyer.
As for how long it takes to turn one, last night I realized I'd dropped my (old Delta) to its slowest speed (belt adjusted) for a bowl I was doing. Kept getting catches, and it was taking an hour to turn a stopper. Bumped it up 2 notches and things are much happier- and faster.
Today I walked past someone cleaning out a cube "Hey- got a motor controller for a 3/4Hp AC motor?" He replied "Sure, you know how to program it?" It's good to be an EE.

I answer to jason at <my domain -- check the picture URL>

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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Updates: 1) It's transfast powder, not transtint. I'm not sure how different they are, but the jar doesn't mention dissolving in alcohol at all.
2) A piece left in alcohol-dissolved transfast overnight then sliced showed little to no pigment penetration (approx 19 hrs). Maybe I'll get out the camera and put together a page with the data points here. Several other pieces are still soaking.
3) I got a vacuum pump off craigslist today and after too many trips to the BORG (I hate buying brass fittings there) got a pickle jar dropped to where the blocks bubbled and sank into the alcohol-dissolved transtint (liquid this time) dye. (I don't have guages, so I don't know what in/Hg it was at). Updates to follow tomorrow. I'll have to see how well the jar holds vaccuum - so far I had to tighten down the fittings a couple of times. Should have taped the threads, but was in a hurry.

-- Nobody Special
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On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 19:32:41 -0700, Nobody Special wrote:

Transfast is soluble in water. TransTint liquid is soluble in both water and alcohol.
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Larry Blanchard wrote:

Thought so. Thanks for confirming it.
Although the green did appear to dissolve in alcohol. Perhaps it only suspended in the alcohol instead of dissolving.
Of course, now I've got to go repeat my penetration test with transtint dissolved in water under vaccuum.....
Maybe in a few weeks when I'm not booked solid.
-- Nobody Special
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Nobody Special wrote:

Update at 3hrs of soak under vaccuum. Pulled one piece out and cut off a corner at a diagonal. In 3 of the directions there was 1/8" or more (in one case probably 1/4") of penetration by the dye. On the last side there wasn't much. But since the block was pretty small, it would probably have been dyed throughout in a few more hours.
I put its partner back in along with some of my stopper blanks, pulled the vaccuum back down and will check them in the morning.
-- Nobody Special
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Hope you post your results! As I said before, I have soaked in dye solution, but never vacuumed. I have a nice Gast that is not doing anything at this time. This could be interesting.
Robert
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You have mail!
I hope.
Let me know here if you didn't get anything. It is 1:20 am CST at the time of this post.
Robert
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Got it. Did you get my reply?
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Yep. Just got back in (Sunday night) and will put a couple of ideas over to you in the morning.
Robert
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Nobody Special wrote:

After ~12-13 hrs I pulled the 2nd piece. Dyed throughout except for some areas that were probably just due to it being a burl.
The stopper pieces I had in there were lighter than the commercial pieces inside, but so far I've not turned through the dye.
-- Nobody Special
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Nobody Special wrote:

Another data point: about 24 hours for a block ~1.5" thick and 2.25" square. As far as I can tell it was saturated throughout- even after drying for 24 hours. Turned real nicely and has better color than the 13 hour pieces. Still nowhere as vibrant as the commecial ones, but good color.
Maybe in a few weeks I'll try to use slow curing resin so the dye has something to keep it in once things dry.
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I sell black ash burl to a number of turners around the country, I know some of them use denatured alcohal to stabilize which displaces the moisture. you may be able to add dye to this cocktail, might be worth a try. ross www.highislandexport.com
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