i've made some for my glass work, and worked with ruth on her steel tab
design for glassworkers. i get between 25 and 40 for them, depending upon if
they're 2 sided and how much glass i've added. my last batch of stoppers
cost me about .90/each but the plating is incredibly thin, discolors,
corrodes, and peels off, so you really do get your money's worth.
here's what i used:
I'm thinking I'll have to raise my prices by $5 for the SS, maybe
that much for boxelder since that's no longer available. That'll
give me a range from $20-35 and a better feel for what the market will
My feeling is $25, maybe $30 is going to be the point of resistance.
I also had a number of cigar pens at nationals ($45). Several lookers
but only one buyer.
As for how long it takes to turn one, last night I realized I'd
dropped my (old Delta) to its slowest speed (belt adjusted) for a bowl
I was doing. Kept getting catches, and it was taking an hour to
turn a stopper. Bumped it up 2 notches and things are much happier-
Today I walked past someone cleaning out a cube "Hey- got
a motor controller for a 3/4Hp AC motor?" He replied "Sure, you know
how to program it?" It's good to be an EE.
I answer to jason at <my domain -- check the picture URL>
1) It's transfast powder, not transtint. I'm not sure
how different they are, but the jar doesn't mention
dissolving in alcohol at all.
2) A piece left in alcohol-dissolved transfast overnight
then sliced showed little to no pigment penetration
(approx 19 hrs). Maybe I'll get out the camera and put
together a page with the data points here.
Several other pieces are still soaking.
3) I got a vacuum pump off craigslist today and after too
many trips to the BORG (I hate buying brass fittings there)
got a pickle jar dropped to where the blocks bubbled and sank
into the alcohol-dissolved transtint (liquid this time) dye.
(I don't have guages, so I don't know what in/Hg it was at).
Updates to follow tomorrow. I'll have to see how well the jar
holds vaccuum - so far I had to tighten down the fittings a couple
of times. Should have taped the threads, but was in a hurry.
Thought so. Thanks for confirming it.
Although the green did appear to dissolve in alcohol.
Perhaps it only suspended in the alcohol instead of dissolving.
Of course, now I've got to go repeat my penetration test
with transtint dissolved in water under vaccuum.....
Maybe in a few weeks when I'm not booked solid.
Update at 3hrs of soak under vaccuum. Pulled one piece out and cut off
a corner at a diagonal. In 3 of the directions there was 1/8" or more
(in one case probably 1/4") of penetration by the dye. On the last side
there wasn't much. But since the block was pretty small, it would
probably have been dyed throughout in a few more hours.
I put its partner back in along with some of my stopper blanks,
pulled the vaccuum back down and will check them in the morning.
After ~12-13 hrs I pulled the 2nd piece. Dyed throughout except
for some areas that were probably just due to it being a burl.
The stopper pieces I had in there were lighter than the commercial
pieces inside, but so far I've not turned through the dye.
Another data point: about 24 hours for a block ~1.5" thick and 2.25"
square. As far as I can tell it was saturated throughout- even after
drying for 24 hours. Turned real nicely and has better color than the
13 hour pieces. Still nowhere as vibrant as the commecial ones, but
Maybe in a few weeks I'll try to use slow curing resin so the
dye has something to keep it in once things dry.
I sell black ash burl to a number of turners around the country, I know
some of them use denatured alcohal to stabilize which displaces the
moisture. you may be able to add dye to this cocktail, might be worth a
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