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Some recent work

Don't think time is a function. At $60 a pop the bill would be about = $3,000.

Should be all he needs is a receipt for tax purposes from the Legion.

P D Q

Reply to
PDQ
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Don't think time is a function. At $60 a pop the bill would be about $3,000.

Should be all he needs is a receipt for tax purposes from the Legion.

P D Q

You are probably right if they issue a receipt. I doubt however if it could actually be a tax credit rather than a deduction if itemizing here in the US. But he is in Canada and who knows how that works up there.

Reply to
Leon

this is correct. you can only write off the cost of materials for donated goods. as a glass artist i get approached a lot for objects to raffle off. it's more cost effective to just give a check.

regards, charlie

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Reply to
charlie

That's the part that drives me crazy. You'll spend $100 on one piece of jewelry, or even way more than that, but you want the box that holds all of them to cost less than that!

I agree with that. For a while I had the mindset of not wanting to waste any space inside the box whatsoever, it had to be practical. I've let go of that for a while and am just having fun, but I have gone a little too far with some of them. But I figure that not everyone who has money to spend necessarily has tons of jewelry and they may appreciate a smaller box that's unique, and as you provided links to show people already have names established for high end work with big storage. I do have a couple of lines of more storage oriented boxes, nothing really big though. And no metal slides :)

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've been planning to do a larger version of the Curves box, I have the doors partially made but have been putting off working on it. I should do some larger pieces, I am just reluctant to invest a lot of time and materials into the larger stuff. The one I am working on now, I have done the top without knowing what's going under it, and it's good size so perhaps I'll make this one a bit larger than normal.

I have the first one priced at $400 on Etsy. My own website gets hardly any traffic (except the page I put up about my shop built drum sander), I've had a box sit in a consignment shop for a year and then get returned to me. We'll see how the new gallery turns out. Sometimes I am just tempted to just double the price of everything and see what happens.

That's one area that maybe holds me back. I'm not going to talk about myself as if what I am doing is museum quality this and finest that, and maybe the people with the $$ need to hear that kind of stuff, but they won't hear it from me. I just want to smack that guy. But he's probably only saying it because that's what he thinks people want to hear, and maybe he's right.

I guess I would rather sell things that maybe they are under priced but it's still a lot of money to the person buying it and something they will really appreciate and love, than something somebody bought because it was expensive which is the feeling I get from a lot of these sites. But I get more messages from people saying how they love one of the boxes and would buy it if they had the money than I do sales. In a way I appreciate those messages more than the sales, but at the same time it doesn't pay the bills.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

On Feb 17, 5:53=A0pm, snipped-for-privacy@YAHOO.COM wrote: [snipped a whole lot of common sense]

Tell you what. I'll hold him, you smack him. Then we switch. What a snooty douche-nozzle. But wait! I'm just too brilliantly fantastic and talented to do that. And too good-looking too! I could muss up my Birkies!! I'm so upset, I think I'll throw tofu at him instead!!

Reply to
Robatoy

Wellllllll you have to sell yourself, I have done plenty of that in the past. Fortunately I have reoccurring customers and referrals from them. I wonder what would happen with your pieces if you put them on another unrelated site and doubled the price. I have learned that you can scare business off if you are too cheap or don't display enough confidence in your pricing. Very often I get jobs that I an not interested in doing until I actually up the price to what I am comfortable with. I think a customer can read your discomfort in your pricing. I "try" not to let pricing limit what I want to do in a project.

Reply to
Leon

Now you're just pissing me off. :-)

Reply to
-MIKE-

:-) Just don't end up on a list like

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Reply to
Maxwell Lol

Thats the only thing I liked... Those slides looked like something I'd do, the rest of it made me feel like, inferior....

Honestly, those slides really looked out of place on such nice, creative work. The first two appear to have some creative and unusual slides, so I can't help wondering why the metalware on the last one?

Reply to
Jack Stein

I don't think so Kevin. The designs are very appealing and creative. I could probably do the work, but not the design. For example, the little wave on the last box top is special, I doubt I would ever have come up with doing that, very artistic. Don't under sell yourself, any one can build stuff, you have to be special to design stuff that pleasing to the eye.

Reply to
Jack Stein

Well everyone feels strongly about the slides :) I have had feedback from customers that they don't like short drawers that fall out when you try to get to the back of them. As I said elsewhere, the main problem is the top drawer where the top overhangs, especially if you have a drawer that is inset to the frame of the box rather than overlapping the front, the wood slides have to end the thickness of the front of the drawer plus the reveal from the front edge, the top overhangs the front of the box perhaps 1/2" to 3/4", and you need a good 1/2" to 3/4" of the drawer still on the slides to support it without falling out. Add all that up and you have an inch and half or more of the drawer still under the top.

The other alternative is to make the top drawer not actually a drawer but fixed and have the top hinged. That's doable on a rectangular box, but when you start throwing in angles and curves as I like to do it starts getting tricky. Plus when you have a solid wood top that is just a single board I want that attached to some structure to help limit any warping it wants to do.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

Well I was referring more to the techniques involved. I still have miters give me fits from time to time and I am generally going to ruin something if hand tools are involved. Master woodworker I am not.

From the design/creativity side, that's really something hard to define. I see it as I have an understanding of what the wood can and cannot do, what my tools and skills can and cannot do, and a library of techniques to deal with about any situation that is going to come up. I have learned to not let my fear of things not turning out right stop me and to just go with it. I don't see it as me doing something special, more that most everyone else is holding themselves back. It's probably a little of both.

The example you gave, well I bought that board which was intended to be used for a guitar by the guy who cut it. It was longer with a natural edge along part of it, rough cut straight for maybe 3/4s of the edge. He did it that way because he had a template for half a guitar and was minimizing waste. I looked at it and my first thoughts were probably what anyone else would think, trying to decide which rectangle I wanted to take from it. The full width and stop at the natural edge, or a longer length and rip it narrower. But it was already not as wide as I would like, and not as long as I'd like if I cut it at the natural edge. So I was just open at that point to considering a different option, go longer and leave a bit of the natural edge. Is this going to look stupid? Let's find out! I ended up deciding to leave the rough cut on the edge so it would blend in better with the natural edge, and as a bonus - less work for me. From there having that bit of asymmetry allowed me to consider doing the pulls in that asymmetrical layout around the swirl of the grain. If it wasn't for that first choice I wouldn't have made the second one.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

wrote

OK, I am moving rapidly into an area I know nothing about. But I have seen some kind of double dovetail slides out of wood. This would essentially be a full extension slide. No idea how to make them (obviously a jig of some kind) or how durable they would be. You obviously don't want to produce something that would break easily.

Reply to
Lee Michaels

I think I saw some full extension slides made from wood in a Fine Woodworking a few (maybe 10, maybe less) years back. But, those were on a full size chest-of-drawers and were kind of big as I remember. Might be hard to do on a jewelry box, except for that guy who does the minatures of course . . .

Bill Ranck Blacksburg, Va.

Reply to
ranck

I'll take the risk of disagreeing with everyone. It may be my beginner perspective, so I don't have any baggage attached to the drawer slide issue. Whatever the reason, my first reaction to the drawer slides was that the combination of beautiful wood and shiney industrial parts was kind of cool.

Maybe I'd react differently to the box, but that was my reaction to the pictures. Doesn't matter much. I can't afford your stuff, so I'm not the customer you need to please.

Reply to
Drew Lawson

It might look better if you could get brass, or at least brass plated, slides. I always think brass looks better with wood. But, hey, it's your stuff and you have to satisfy yourself first.

Bill Ranck Blacksburg, Va.

Reply to
ranck

Wow - I've never seen brass slides (but I haven't looked either) but that's the best suggestion I've seen!

Brass would work, but even just a couple of microinches of gold (like

1/1000 of an ounce, worth about US$1.00) would dress up a steel slide enough to make it worthy of the box.

(tuppence)

Reply to
Morris Dovey

I've googled previously on the subject, but haven't experimented with it. My concern is there's got to be some free sliding middle part to accomplish it, and at this scale that could easily warp. I don't have a lot of confidence it's going to keep working well over time, but that's just my gut feeling.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

Thanks for that! I think it would look pretty out of place on say a more rustic looking piece with a big natural edge top or something, but I don't think it looks bad in and of itself.

A lot of it is about perception. I don't _need_ to dovetail the drawers, but that is perceived to be a standard of quality. It's actually pretty darn easy to dado in wood slides and they make everything line up perfectly without any fiddling. I had to muck around adjusting the steel slides to get everything aligned to the degree needed here for quite a while, and I had to modify the plastic bumpers at the back that hold the drawer in the closed position because they required too much force as is. So it's actually a lot more work to do it, but the perception may be the reverse, so I need to make sure if I do use them that I try to explain that.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

Believe it or not I was just googling brass full extension slides this afternoon, but I didn't come up with anything. Anything is possible for the right amount of $$$ but for the tiny volume I do if it works out to $100/pr it aint worth it.

For the amount of weight involved it ought to be possible to make an undermount slide that isn't huge either.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

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