I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage titebond
had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they even
make titebond. He didn't have any idea.
So I did a google search and found that the only advantage of titebond is
that parts can be taken apart with water, so it is good for joints that
might need to be taken apart.
So, my questions:
1) Can titebond joints be taken apart with water? If so, how? I made two
matching cabinets, only the plywood panels came from different sheets and
sure don't match. I would like to replace them on one cabinet. When I
posted a question a couple weeks ago on how to do that, no one suggested
dissolving the glue.
2) Is there any other advantage to titebond?
3) How susceptible to water problems is titebond? Is a cabinet in an
occasionally steamy bathroom at risk?
Titebond II can be exposed to wet conditions (outside, etc) and not have
any problems. Titebond will eventually fail.
As far as taking glued panels apart, you'll probably have to use so much
water that you'll delaminate the plywood. Titebond is pretty strong
Just to add to what Wade said, original Titebond and Titebond II are both
polyvinyl acetate emulsions. Ther term 'aliphatic resin has little or no
real meaning. Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
(pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
chain. This cross linking makes Titebond II more resistant to degradation
by water but it will still break down. Titebond II is not waterproof by any
stretch of the imagination. Water resistant would be a batter term. Thus,
both will fail eventually in the presence of water. For a bathroom I would
definitely use Titebond II as it would resist the higher humidity more
Too true. To say that Titebond can be taken apart by water would be a
stretch. It is degraded by water but you do not use water to take it apart.
That would suggest reversibility and since PVA adhesives are polymerized
through a chemical reaction, they are by their very nature irreversible -
unlike hide glue for instance. No-one suggested taking it apart using water
because it just isn't a good idea. I would probably steer closer to
veneering the panel or finding another way to cover it rather than taking
the cabinet apart. You could try to use creative finishing to match them
Yes. Warm water with a little vinegar added will loosen cured yellow
carpenter's glue joints, provided the glue is not labeled
It's a yellow carpenter's glue. Elmer's is just as good. The joint,
curing process, and clamping are very important, no matter what brand
A joint should not depend on the glue. There's no substitute for
mortise and tenon joinery. Make sure you run an exhaust fan for 20
minutes during/after a steamy shower--this will prevent mold/mildew
from eating the wood.
As someone who's been using Elmer's for years, I have to say I think I like
Titebond better. Still on my first bottle, mind you, so I haven't used it
much, and I haven't tried Titebond II yet. Seems to flow much easier, and
has a higher initial tack, so the parts don't want to slip around as much.
It also seems to have a longer working time. If the bottle isn't telling a
fib, it also won't transform irreversibly into cheese if I accidentally let
Strength wise, I doubt it matters. I've got Elmer's-glued stuff that has
held up for years.
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < firstname.lastname@example.org>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
I went back to using Titebond for most of my gluing. Titebond II was too
viscous, and more of a pain to use.
You are better off with a variety of adhesives --- Polyurethane, white (for
more working time), yellow, water-resistant yellow, 5 min epoxy, System 3
regular epoxy, hide glue, and hot shot. They all have a place in the shop.
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