so a dummy buys a ras...

[Adam]

I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw and here's what I've learned so far, It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again. It starts with a key. It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they want to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some pictures in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, Adam

[Robatoy]

RAS's are a nasty piece of gear. A blade with sharp teeth at 3500 RPM is not only dangerous as is..but now we're hanging that on a little carriage?!?!?! It's no secret that I thoroughly dislike the beasts.

Be careful, Adam.... concentrate, focus and you'll be fine.

[Mortimer Schnerd, RN]

I don't understand what the big deal is with RAS. My first big tool was a RAS (which in hindsight was a mistake). The only operation I didn't think was safe was ripping. Everything else was fine with normal care being taken.

[Darrell Dorsey]

This is supposedly some good info on RAS's. I dont have one but hope to get my dad's old saw some day.

[Doug Miller]

I'm always mystified at the prejudice displayed toward RASs by those who have never owned and rarely used one.

Radial arm saws are WAAAAAY safer than table saws. When operating the RAS, one hand is *always* on the handle of the saw and it is therefore impossible to amputate that hand or any of its digits - and to keep the other hand safe, all you have to do it put it someplace that isn't in the path of the blade, and keep it there.

Kickback is a rare event, and if it occurs, the workpiece is thrown *away* from the operator, not *toward* him as with a TS.

Crosscutting long boards on a table saw is insane by comparison with doing the same on a radial arm saw.

Ripping looks scary... but think about it - there's less blade exposed during rip operations on a RAS than on a TS (assuming you haven't done something stupid like removing the guard).

I know I'm coming perilously close to violating the Usenet Prime Directive by attempting to inject a dose of reality into a discussion, but, please, let's at least attempt to be a little bit objective here.

[CW]

I agree with you.

[David]

So crosscut very long boards on a CMS. Using the right tool for the job is part of "safety first". If I can maintain control of a board on my TS sled, I'll cross cut on the TS for critical cuts. I don't get perfectly straight cuts on my CMS, because it isn't a slider. if I had a slider, the movement of the blade would insure a straight cut. Plus the quality of cut is better on my TS w/ WWII or the double sided melamine blade.

I spoke with a neighbor about his dust-gathering RAS. He confirmed for me that it won't stay adjusted. One of the bugaboos that afflict all but the very best models according to many reports. Since I don't (and won't) own one, I have no personal experience with one. I'd like to keep it that way.

Did Rumpty pay you for the RAS plug? (VBG)

Dave

Doug Miller wrote:

[Clint]

So a friend of mine offered me a RAS, as he's got two sitting in his garage (in pieces). I've got a tablesaw, a miter saw, but I'm thinking this saw could still be a useful addition to my arsenal. Or am I dreaming? I was thinking it would be as useful as having a crosscut sled set up, and useful for cutting dado's and rabbets. Probably keep it at 90 degrees almost all the time.

Clint

[LRod]

Don't listen to chicken littles about the RAS. It's as safe as any other powered, toothed implement in your shop. Operator stupidity, now; that's another matter.

However, get the book by Wally Kunkel ("Mr. Sawdust") at

It's focus is on Dewalt RAS' and their structure, but much of the material is useful to any RAS owner. $29.95, but worth it. You'll certainly get something out of it.

[Log]

[James "Cubby" Culbertson]

I've got a RAS and find it to be very useful, and safe. I don't rip on it only because I'm used to using my table saw for that. It allows me to cut miters in an easier fashion than fidling with the miter gauge on the table saw though. It's invaluable for cutting down stock to length when the boards are long. As for keeping it in adjustment, well I have a craftsman from around 1984 maybe and I set it up myself then. Today, not a single adjustment has needed to be made and it still cuts dead on. Clean it up, plug it in, and give a go! Cheers, cc

[Ivan Vegvary]

I have and use a RAS. My only discomfort is that work other than cutting, e.g., molding, rabitting etc., if the work shifts it will shift into the cutter and get gouged. Doing the same operation on a Table Saw, if the work shifts, you cut less than you had intended and can take a second pass. Otherwise, I like and use RAS.

[Prometheus]

Keep your thumb outta the way, and you should be fine. :)

[George]

That's the one. Too many stupid people put their hand where the blade's going.

Mine's been with me thirty years - Montgomery Ward - and I didn't get it new. You check the sets prior to cutting, just as you do your table saw, and it shouldn't be a problem. Every RAS is capable of holding a setting, the rub is how long.

If God had meant for us to rip on a RAS, he'd never have given us the tablesaw.

[Wilson]

[Robatoy]

yup

I rest my case.

[Guess who]

Aside from the OP possibly being a troll ...otherwise he should take up knitting ... How do you compare when ripping? I watched a neighbour trying to manipulate with one arm on either side of the blade. I *gave* him a table saw. Now he's making money. The RAS has its uses which improve on the TS, but the TS is my choice for ripping, and a few other odds and sods. Safety is not so much the tool as the idiot using it [been there in spades.]

[Dave Hall]

\ Do a search on DeCristiforo and Radial Arm Saw. I think his RAS book is something like "The Magic of your Radial Arm Saw" or similar. It is a pretty good book although like all the other RAS books I have seen says nothing about the Craftsman model. I think his is written around a DeWalt RAS. I like DeCristiforo's style but that may be because THE book on my Shopsmith was written by him.

Dave Hall

[dadiOH]

I grant you that it is easier/better to rip on a table saw - should be, that's what it is meant to do - put ripping on a RAS isn't all that hard and no more dangerous than on a table saw...one keeps one's hands and body where they should be (out of the way of danger) in both cases.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[George]

It's "multiple-cut mesmerization" to me. The ones I've gone on have almost always been, with the RAS, cutting multiple pieces to length and forgetting how wide their palm was. With tablesaws, accidents are more frequent, but usually involve forgetting where their fingers were when ripping multiple pieces.

My personal worst, to date, was my bandsaw. Turn the saw off, start to brush dust away. SHEESH! Lucky I can still bend that knuckle.

Now chainsaw accidents, on the other hand - or should I say foot, because that's been most common, are really grisly....