Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
moron? Ive tried everything.
Causes of snipe:
1. Board tilts up/down as it enters/leaves the feed rollers.
2. Cutterhead tilts up/down as wood enters/leaves the feed rollers.
I mounted my planer on a table and added infeed/outfeed rollers, seems
to help somewhat. Greasing the pillars on the head seems to reduce
head tilt a little. Other than that, you'll have to experiment and
see what works for you.
It means that either the board or the carriage (the part with the
cutter head and rollers) shifts too much when only one roller is in
contact with the work. It can be caused by a number of things, including
the tables being too low, or tilting down away from the cutter head.
What kind of planer do you have? Does it have a carriage or cutter head
lock, and if so, do you notice any difference when using it?
You can reduce the effect of table adjustments by using an auxiliary bed,
easily made from a piece of melamine.
I'd disagree with that. (Unless you own a "sniper" planer; OR don't
know how to prevent snipe by adjustment and feed techniques). One of
the easiest way to prevent snipe is feed one boards in sequentially, but
overlapping a bit so that the planer sees a continuous length of boards.
The only part that could have snipe would be the leading end of the
first board and the trailing end of the last board. As long as the
boards are less than 1/2 the width of the planer that's an option.
I just don't believe that it is a "cost of doing business".
Snipe is caused by improperly adjusted infeed and or out feed roller
height and / or pressure. Start by adjusting the bed rollers just a hair
above the planer bed. Use a good straight edge to run between the infeed and
out feed rollers on the bed to about 0.001" to 0.003" above the bed. Make
sure it is even across all planes of the bed. Then adjust your infeed power
roller so that it grabs the board but it will not slip if you feel the board
kick up on the back side you bed roller is to high. Then adjust your out
feed power roller in the same fashion. Also do use some type of support on
both sides of your planner level with your bed if your stock is any longer
that 48". This should all but eliminate any snipping.
I agree with Rumpty, price of doing business. Unless you spend countless
hours on set up every time. If your using a portable planer there are a few
tricks to try.
I have a planer sled that I have had success with for some pieces but that
only works once in a while. Rest of the time I know I have "X" amount of
in any job and don't fret about it. Lifes to short to nit-pic some waste.
Thanks for telling me it ain't something I can control on my Delta 13"
portable which has always sniped the hell out of stuff right out of the box
and no relief after agonizing hours of fooling with leveling screws on the
cheap stamped metal tables. That in spite of the big selling feature about
locking head mechanism.
Not one to give up easily though, so when time permits I'll follow the
instructions for the outfeed roller adjustment. They want a BIG piece of
hardwood and I'll have to check the woodpile for a piece that will give me a
4"x4" chunk to machine to their specs and I'll go from there.
I have that planer and rarely see any snipe. When I do, it is because I did
not support a piece as it exits. What length boards are you putting
through? The loner ones are in need of support. When I do some short ones
(say 18" or less), I have never seen any snipe.
It is still good practice to oversize the boards and leave some to trim off
the ends. Easy to say, but when you have a 20" hunk of wood and need two 9
1/2 inchers, there is little room for error.
Ed, have you tried laying longer pieces of scrap on each side of your
short workpiece and running the three through together? By the time
the scrap gets sniped, the good piece is safely through the cutters.
Ripped-down $3 tubafors are perfect for it, and darned cheap
Bbut, if your diet is high in vegetable oils will it cause spontaneous
combustion? If you have sawdust in the compost will it cause a dust
explosion? Enquiring minds you know...
And, and, what if there is Yew in the scrap heap - will it smell "pee yew"?
<pauses for breath>
time to go methinks
"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...it's more like a jar of
No, no, no! Pay attention! That's what to do with your *sawdust*, not
your scraps! Scraps take too long to compost. How many times do I have
to repeat it?
I just discovered a use for planer shavings. A friend came over today
to use my planer on a bunch of spruce and pine he cut on his property.
Somebody with a Woodmiser milled it for him and he asked to use my
planer. A soon-to-be grandfather, you will never guess what he will
make with it (the wood, not the planer). That's right, a hope chest
for his daughter.(1)
Anyway, to make a short story even longer, as he was cleaning up, he
asked me if I composted the shavings. I told I put them out for the
city's compost pick-up. He said he could use it as firestarter. I told
him that my experience with planer shavings is that they did not burn
too well. I tried putting them directly on the fire. If you put too
few, they just immediately flare up. Too many, and they just sit these
and smolder until the fire goes out. Then you still have a pile of
(partially burnt) shavings to dispose of. I also tried putting them in
paper grocery bags and then burning the bag in a stove or fireplace,
but the same thing happened.
What he does is to pour diesel fuel or kerosene on the shavings so
that it is absorbed. He keeps it in plastic bags. When he needs to
start a fire in his woodstove, he puts a small quantity of the
shavings in the stove and lights it. Bingo!
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
(1) He had promised her a hope chest many years ago and is finally
getting rountuit. Bill is building a cradle too, as behooves any
grandfather. He is planning to finish it with shellac. When I told him
that it shellac edible as it is made from bug secretions (just like
honey) and that it was used to coat Smarties (M&Ms, Keith), it
reinforced his decision.
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