Hello...Looking to start a project that requires use of a 1/16 straight
router bit. I've never used a bit that small before and wondered what
advice you could offer besides slow and easy.
I'm going to be routing some groves into MDF board for a project and
would prefer not to find out the hard way and end up explaining to the
15th person in the hospitals ER of how I got this piece of metal
Would it be possible for your application to use a slotting cutter in
stead of a straight bit? Might be safer, or at least less likely to
break. I know that MLCS and Porter Cable (through Amazon) have 1/16"
Don't think the slot cutter will do it. The grooves I'm looking to put
in are going to wander a bit. The project is my first attempt at a
wooden HO scale (1/64th) wooden slot car track. Middle groove for the
guide pin of the car and a shallower groove on either side for the
power rail. I'll be putting 16 ga. rebar tie wire in the outside
grooves for the power rails.
Candysthis, I have a Dremel and was wondering how it would work for
this application. I'll have to look into the router attachment for it.
Thanks for the ideas. Please feel free to add more. It's going to be
a couple of weeks before I can start.
HO scale for model railways is 1/87th scale, yes.
However, HO scale for slot cars is 1/64th scale.
I'm not at all sure why this is the way it is, but it is. It's probably
something like how O scale (for model railways) in Europe is 1/43rd
scale, but O scale in the U.S. is 1/48th scale. And don't even get
started on G scale....
The "bmoses-nospam" address is valid; no unmunging needed.
I need to cut a very small slot in a cabinet I made after is was
assembled and decided to use my new Dremel tool. Plunged right in,
started making the slot, it kicked and sent the bit right into my right
index finger. Nearly cut the entire tip of my finger off and exposed
the inner workings of exactly how a finger nail grows out of the bone.
Luckily, the whole thing healed without a much of a scar. Luckily. I
was stupid as I think I was using a drywall cutout bit. Big mistake.
For what its worth,
Who still has his right index finger.
The Dremel should work but.....the bearings in the thing aren't really
designed for heavy side-loads. At least the first two I owned weren't.
Newer models *may* be better.
Just go slow or you will let all the smoke out.
FLASHBACK!! wow.. lol
I made an HO scale track for Tyco and Arorua cars about 100 years ago...
I'll have to see if I can find a picture... faded memory recalls building a jig
for the router (or maybe the drill press?) that cut 3 grooves at once, the
middle one for the slot and the 2 outside grooves were for the burglar alarm
tape that we used for the power to the cars...
Damn.. that was a LONG time ago.. *g*
If you look at web sites like Penn State, etc., you'll see yo-yo cutting bits
for the drill press... that's sort of what we made, as I remember...
Please remove splinters before emailing
bremen68 (in firstname.lastname@example.org)
| Hello...Looking to start a project that requires use of a 1/16
| straight router bit. I've never used a bit that small before and
| wondered what advice you could offer besides slow and easy.
Easy - but not slow. I use 'em in a CNC router at 90"/min; but keep
the depth of each pass at or less than 2 diameters (1/8").
FWIW, the same rules work fairly well for 1/32" bits. Also FWIW - it's
only scary the first time. :-)
DeSoto, Iowa USA
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