(slightly OT) glueing wood to glass

SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive would y'all recommend?
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On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 9:24:16 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:

100% Silicone caulk would be my choice.
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I used aquarium tank silicone glue for a similar purpose years ago and never had issues with it. (I was gluing wood trim to the outside of an aquarium tank.)
Not too pretty from the inside, but if you can't see that it's not a big deal.
Elijah ------ only used the tank for a couple of years
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 20:01:44 +0000 (UTC), Eli the Bearded

Isn't that the same thing (100% silicone caulk)? The stuff with acetic acid is better but I don't know if it's available anymore. I'm allergic to it so haven't looked *for* it. ;-)

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snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote in wrote:

Thanks for all the ideas. Super glue seems to have worked (so far :) )
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On Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 7:22:23 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:

Glad it works...it would not even enter my consideration for wood! *J*
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sawdustmaker wrote:

How about the humble screw?
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On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 7:24:16 PM UTC-7, sawdustmaker wrote:

Why not DAP 33 glazing compound, just like an exterior window?
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On 7/12/16 9:24 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:

Silicone caulk will adhere to glass, but best to read the directions on the tube of the many different sealants to see which is best. The local glass shop I use recommends Lexel caulk. It is really superior for glass. http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/
Having said that, I just "picture framed" two very large bathroom mirrors in a luxury home using some very fancy trim molding. I went into the job thinking the same thing as you, "how do I adhere the wood to the glass?"
My answer: "You don't." The mirror is on the wall, so I used trim nails to attach the molding to the wall, not the glass. It worked great. The molding sat about 2/3 on the perimeter of the mirror and 1/3 off the edge of the mirror, over the wall. I shot nails into the wall, careful to make sure I was clear of the glass mirror.
Three tips... 1. Use a shim the thickness of the glass when shooting the nail or they'll try to pull the trim against the wall. The shim doesn't have to stay there, it just has to keep the molding from pulling towards the wall. 2. Make sure whatever molding you're using is stained/painted on the back, the same as on the front/sides. The mirror will reflect the back side of the molding and you'll see if it's no finished-- it's stick out like a sore thumb. 3. If possible, assemble and glue the "frame" together on the floor or work surface, then apply it to the mirror/wall as one piece. I used CA glue on the miters to make the job quick.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 7/13/2016 12:54 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

Yes to the above, but cut a rabbit into the trim so that it does not pull the mirror to the wall, so you do not need shims.
Alternatively "frame" the mirror in one of the wide thin boards, I believe they are 3/8 X 2, then cut the trim so the edge aligns with the putter edge of the thin board and overlapping the mirror. I would glue the trim to the thin board.
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rabbet - a groove cut in the edge of a piece of material.
rabbit - small furry critter with long ears.
rarebit - melted cheese on toast.
John
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On 7/13/16 6:39 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:

.......

I considered cutting a rabbet in the back, but didn't do it for a couple reasons. The mirrors were very close to the corners of the wall which weren't very "square" at the sheetrock seems. I didn't want to push the corners and tear the tape in the corners above the mirrors. When the trim was assembled as one piece, I figured at that point it's a decorative fixture that is merely for show and didn't need belt as suspenders.
Just to clarify, you only need one shim to hold the trim away from the wall as you nail it. You place it near each nail as you shoot it, then move to the next.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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I used, on two mirrors, automotive style double sided attachment tape made by 3M. This tape is used to attach body side moldings on vehicles. So it is weather proof, thin but gap filling, and applied like double sided tape. Still working fine 10 years later.
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On 7/13/2016 6:48 AM, Leon wrote:

Actually to add to the above, I attached the frame on top of the mirror.
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On 7/13/16 9:17 AM, Leon wrote:

I'm going to tuck that tip away for the future.
--

-MIKE-

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I'd rebate the inside of the frame and use pins or glazing points to hold the mirror in place.
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On 7/13/16 8:15 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:

I'm guessing the mirror is already adhered to the wall.
--

-MIKE-

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A wide taping knife worked to remove the bathroom mirror that I framed (which was adhered with construction adhesive), but point taken.
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