If you have a straight shot into the basement you should be all right.
I bought a DJ-20, brought it home and then determined there was never
going to be a way to get it into my basement. Brought it back and
exchanged for a PM54A.
My basement stairs is U shaped with a landing half way down. No way to
carry an 8' long crate down the stairs. It was just too darn heavy to get
through the window. I didn't want to uncrate it as then there would be
temptation to carry it by the table ends. It probably would not fit down
the stairs even uncrated.
I think I should be OK. I have a patio door to go through and then a
straight half flight of stairs down to the shop. I'll have to get 2 or
3 good strong friends to help out (well, they're friends for now at
least...this might change things). Grizzly customer service says the
crates are 120 and 310 lbs. Ouch.
I have pretty much determined I am going to go with the G0500 based on
the good things I've heard about it. Its that or the G1018, but for
$100 extra bucks, you get 1/2hp more, 10" more bed, 1 more cutterhead
blade and a dust hood. Sounds like its worth the extra money. Y'all
agree, or is 1 1/2hp plenty for this size machine?
Again, thanks for the comments folks.
An alternative if you need it, is to use a dolly with the larger balloon
tires with about a third of the air let out. Works great on stairs and
over uneven surfaces. Me and my bad back just dragged a pretty sizable
piece of scavanged granite up and down a bunch of stairs.
rob firstname.lastname@example.org (rob) wrote in message
Well, here's my story.
I bought the 6" Jet.. For awhile I kicked myself for not
buying a jointer with longer beds.. But then I realized
that most boards don't really NEED to be jointed. The
planer is often good enough.. Now I know it's not as
good a joining every surface, but it's good enough.
I mainly use ok. If I get a piece that is warped/twisted
too badly to flattened with the planer, I set it aside.
When I do raised panelled doors for cabinents, or something
else that requires a lot of 2' to 4' pieces, I cut up
the reject pile and use the jointer to true them up.
Works pretty well if you buy your wood in big quanities
and can pick through your own stack. Or if you're willing
to buy a few extra boards every time (naturally they will
be used eventually).
And actually, I'm glad I was forced to do this technique.
I save a lot of time by using the planer only about 80%
of the time, and saving the jointer for the 20% or so "problem
boards". I can't tell the difference from the days where I
used to joint everything, but maybe the more anal retentive
types can. :)
Do you not rough cross cut before jointing? I have a basic 6" jointer. I can
mill up to about 5-foot long boards with that. Precious few of my project
individual components are longer than that. Sometimes I will componentize a
design to keep from having to mill really long components (e.g., stacked
cabinets). For widths greater than 6", I joint then glue. Then I find that
it's good enough for the planer.
If it fits on the jointer, I see no reason to skip that step. If it doesn't,
I'll sight the board and take off the high spots by hand if necessary.
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