Single Dado Blade Usage

I need to make a slot for a key in a picture frame corner. In the past I would use my standard combo blade but it doesn't leave a flat bottom.
Have you ever used a single outside blade for this task? I have a Freud Dial-A-Dado. The manufacturer says to not do it but I don't see the harm. What am I missing? Is this a bad idea?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:01:23 AM UTC-7, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

Dial-A-Dado. The manufacturer says to not do it but I don't see the harm. What am I missing? Is this a bad idea? Not sure what the problem could be but most outer dado blades have alternating teeth with a clean cut edge tooth followed by a flat bottom tooth. I would assume you will get one ragged edge if you just use a single outer blade.
I keep one FTG blade around for doing tenons so have never benn forced to try this. If it is not too deep, maybe a router with an 1/8" bit?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 4/10/2013 1:01 PM, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

Dial-A-Dado. The manufacturer says to not do it but I don't see the harm. What am I missing? Is this a bad idea?

I can't see any danger but I have to believe that you will probably get a less than desirable cut. These outer blades are location specific, at least on the Forrest dado king, you might get a rough cut on one side.
On a second thought will everything press/connect correctly with out a chipper in there against that adjustable blade???
Test first.
I have used my plate joiner/biscuit cutter for similar cuts.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Have you looked at your 24T rip blade lately?
Lew
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 2:01:23 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

Dial-A-Dado. The manufacturer says to not do it but I don't see the harm. What am I missing? Is this a bad idea? Thanks for the input guys! I ended up just using both outside blades (sans chippers) and it came out to a 0.23" spline :)
You can see the build here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YZcQby_GFI

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nice technique on setting up the 45 cross cut. Very nice.
On nipping the spline, I would have sawed it proud about 1/16th and then used the block plane to smooth it down, rather than sawing it tight and then using the block plane to try and defeat the teeth marks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Friday, April 12, 2013 12:15:57 PM UTC-4, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

the block plane to smooth it down, rather than sawing it tight and then using the block plane to try and defeat the teeth marks. Great suggestion! Maybe use a playing card in between the saw and wood. Nice.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Alternatively cut them as triangles vs rectangles before glueing in place.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nice job Brian.
Turn about is fair play, :-). A problem with using a sock or similar thirsty material to apply a finish and or stain is the amount of the material it soaks up.. Women's old stockings and or panty hose work very well to apply either varnish or stain. As a bonus they also do not absorb the pigment from the stain.
Lastly, how often do you find that you have to reset the 45 degree setting on that Osbourne miter gauge? I tried one several years ago and found the same problem especially if it was used at 45 with the telescoping arm almost fully extended.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Friday, April 12, 2013 8:19:18 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

It was only off 5 thou over 8" so I just left it alone. It's a pretty rare event for me to cut 45's. It would definitely be a pain to have to set the 45 manually w/o a pos stop each time.
Which miter gauge are you using now?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Two different ones. For smaller lighter cuts I am using the Incra 1000HD with the next size longer telescoping fence. I mostly use it for narrow stock, <10". I also have left and right side Dubby jig sleds. These are strictly visual for angle setting but the angle scale is along the outer edge of the sled and that gauge is relatively long. IIRC the scale is about 16~18" long so if you divide that length by 45 you can see that there is quite a bit of distance between degree marks. Considering no positive detent stops it is pretty darn accurate. About 15" out from the pivot clamp knob is another clamp knob that holds the angle setting with out chance for wiggle or deflection.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.