Shrink-proof Beadboard


I'm to be putting up some wide beadboard and had a couple of questions. The design is identical to standard beadboard/wainscotting, but the boards are to be much wider - 10 to 12". http://store.yahoo.com/vintagewoodworks/beadboard.html shows what it looks like.
Given the width, I'm very concerned about seasonal dimensional/moisture content change, since I'm looking at the existing work with full 1/4" gaps between them! There has also been cupping and, frankly, it looks like shit. I don't want my work to look like shit. I've been thinking of tracking down some quarter-sawn Eastern White Pine to minimize the movement and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions. (It's to be painted, BTW.)
I don't mind profiling it myself, but I've not got the jointer to handle 12" boards. Could I just use MDF or FinnPly?
JP **************************************** sorry charlie, back on my meds...
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Jay Pique wrote:

I would suggest that MDF is the way to go. Here in AUST. we can purchase it it pre primed and ready to go. regards John
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I did some a couple of years ago. It was Masonite (tempered hardboard). Tounge and grove stuff. Builder's adhesive, and coaxed it into place with a rubber mallet. Nail top and bottom where it would go under molding. Pre-primed. Looks great. Pieces were about 9-10" wide, and 8' long. I cut it into 4' pieces for a hallway to take care of little hands that seem to want to hold the walls up. Took a remarkable amount of paint to look good -- maybe 3 coats of semi-gloss latex enamel..
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professorpaul wrote:

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm going to go with MDF for sure, primarily because of the stability. I haven't looked for a source of preprimed (and premilled) 10" MDF beadboard yet - is it commonly available?
JP *************************** I <heart> Insomniacs.
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wrote:

Try putting the bottom ON the lower molding instead of behind it. This eliminates the dust and dirt catching holes where the face profile goes behind the lower molding. I've done several bathrooms and kitchens this way with excellent results.
The pre-primed MDF beadboard can be glued right to drywall using PL adhesive or the equivalent.
Barry
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