Should I tint Titebond if...

If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains, wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me, despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the "wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out. Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the joint for fear of bleeding under the tape.
dave
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|If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains, |wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if |I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me, |despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will |blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the |"wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out. |Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the joint |for fear of bleeding under the tape.
I'm appling the finish to my project (at least the first coupla coats) and then I'll glue it up.
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oh, water based stain won't interfere with the glue, right?? that would be a great advantage.
dave
Wes Stewart wrote:

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you can always test it on some scraps..
randy
wrote:

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I'm a big believer in testing. Just wondered if it was de rigeur amongst the Wreckers to prefinish if using water based dye and water based glue to avoid light areas like I get now with my not-so-perfect technique when staining with oil modified stain like Bonakemi, which won't color glue contaminated wood at all.
dave
xrongor wrote:

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|oh, water based stain won't interfere with the glue, right?? that would |be a great advantage.
Probably would. Mask off the joints and apply finish, leaving the joinery bare.
Wes
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Nope - but I read recently that it can bleed back on you if you're not careful. I blue tape all of the glue areas before I use the water soluble aniline dyes. [ Actually, I go a little "short/narrow" on the tape - so I end up over-dying a tad in the glue area, just in case I screw up. ]
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Dave,
Can't answer about tinting the glue but as for using the 3M (blue) tape - use it. Glue will not bleed under it as you've probably experienced with paint and other masking tape. I save the tape from the larger projects and stick the longer pieces to the back side of a door in the shop to be reused. Whenever I need a piece of tape - just grab one of those. It works quite well.
Bob S.

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thanks, Bob. sounds like I need to do some more testing! If the blue tape works well, then that would be an easy solution. Someone said if I dye stain first and then glue, the glue could screw up the stain anyway and I'd be looking at a marred piece. I'm paranoid about not getting enough glue in a joint, so I have LOTS of squeeze out.
dave
Bob S. wrote:

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gluing on is not easily cleaned. Yet, when I trim the ends off and break them, they never break at the glue line. (so, even my light gluing is stronger than the wood)
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Toller wrote:

Usually quite true. I've stuck really scraggly, irregular stuff together with light glue and no clamps, and had it break somewhere other than the glue line.
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Silvan wrote:

Quite some time ago I had a chance to talk with a guy who worked for one of the major glue manufacturers (can't remember which one), and in conversation he told me that light gluing is actually better than heavy. He's the guy that convinced me to use an acid brush and spread a thin even coat rather than just squirting some in the center of the joint and smooshing things together. Much less squeeze out to deal with now, though I do keep a damp sponge or rag on hand during glue ups.
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Fri, Mar 5, 2004, 9:32pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@nospam.com (BayAreaDave) asks: If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains, wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond <snip>
Damn right. I recommend PURPLE.
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