Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?

I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance.

Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are

10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense?

In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that.

Brian Elfert

Reply to
Brian Elfert
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They would be from this guy's POV. I work under 7' ceilings.

Remember, you're probably going to have lights, DC tubes, etc... hanging, so the extra space would be worth it for the net height.

I've found areas with higher ceilings easier to light, as the light can spread out more before it reaches bench and tool tops. You may need fewer lights with 10' vs. 9' ceilings.

You could always add some sort of ceiling fan(s) to help with heating and cooling.

10' ceilings... drool...
Reply to
B a r r y

I forgot about DC piping. That was going to run up high in my vaulted ceiling. I should plan on 10' walls and can go back to 9' later if things change.

Brian Elfert

Reply to
Brian Elfert

I've got almost 9' ceilings and find them too low.

Dave

Reply to
David

9' ceiling is sometimes too low for flipping big countertops. go for 10'. It will be a little easier to light, and if insulated properly, some recirc fans will make sure the heating bill won't increase.

A standard sheet of MDF measures 108 11/16" on the diagonal. You can't manipulate, freely, one of those in a 9' height.

Building tables and chairs won't give you any grief...unless you want to store those 12' cherry boards vertically..

Make it 10 feet, Brian.....

Reply to
Robatoy

If you're framing, twobys come 8', 10' 12'....

You're gonna have to buy 10 footers anyway aren't you?

Reply to
Wes Stewart

You can also get sheetrock in other than 4x8 sizes to match...If I were going from scratch, I'd go the 10'.

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

It is going to depend on what the majority of your work is.

I make little music boxes so I could manage with a 7' ceiling.

If you are handling large cabinets, long countertops the extra height will give you clearance on overhead lights, heating ductowrk etc.

In my area the choice would be 8' or 10' for wall stud construction since those are the standard lengths available. Ceiling fans or a recirculating duct and fan will help your heating costs.

Reply to
marks542004

Reply to
Pat Barber

They make 104 5/8" precut studs in both 2x4s and 2x6s. 9' walls would be easier than 10' unless I don't cut the 10 footers and go to 10 1/2' or so.

Brian Elfert

Reply to
Brian Elfert

I built my shop with 10' celings with 2x6 studs on recommendation of a neighbor. I don't regret it for a moment. I can flip 4x8 sheet goods end-for-end without hitting the lights (or DC system once I put one in) which I could not do with 8' or 9' ceilings. It's as cheap to do 10' as 9' and, with insulated 2x6 walls, you won't notice the difference in heating or cooling.

Reply to
dondone

I went from a shop w. 8' ceilings to one with 14' ceilings. It took me .000008 seconds to get used to is.

Go for the 10'.

You won't regret it.

Bill

Reply to
bill.mcnutt

I'm already ahead of you on the 2x6 studs. Energy costs aren't going down any time soon.

I am most likely going to go with 10' walls even though the expense is not insignificant. 10% more interior/exterior sheathing, siding, and studs are required which is at least $1000 additional. $1000 doesn't sound like much, but my budget for this building is tight.

Brian Elfert

Reply to
Brian Elfert

I finished my shop a few years ago, with 9' ceilings (actually, closer to 8' 10"), and I regret it. Stick the 10' measurement in, slop an extra 4" of ceiling insulation in to reduce heating costs, and go.

The ONLY problem 10' ceilings create is changing light bulbs: you need a ladder instead of a chair.

Reply to
Charlie Self

You won't spend that much more to go 10'. 2x4's are relatively inexpensive and so is drywall. Your foundation and roof won't change at all. I know it's more insulation and wiring etc. but how many times are you going to get to build a shop from scratch. Pick up a full piece of 4x8 plywood to move around and see how high off the ground you lift it then figure how high the top of the piece went. With lights and storage overhead you'll end up thinking about 12' ceilings. I think drywall can be special ordered in 5' wide pieces (difficult for one guy to handle) but if you use regular 4x8 sheets you'll split one to finish you your walls or if you go to 12' you won't have to cut them at all. Whatever you do I'll be jealous. I've got a 2 car garage that I try to park one car regularly and everything is on wheels. I am happy to have it but it would be nice to have permanent spots to park the equipment on. Robert

Brian Elfert wrote:

Reply to
Knotbob

I'd like, but not need, high ceilings making dollhouse furniture.

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y

I doubt anyone would recommend 9 over 10. Build it as high as you can afford. You won't regret it. Dave

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Reply to
TeamCasa

Brian,

When we built our garage, I made a 2' high concrete perimeter foundation. Then I built standard 8' high walls on top of that. Once the slab was poured and the ceiling sheetrocked, I ended up with just over 9-1/2 feet of ceiling height.

This has worked out to a very comfortable height for me. I can stand plywood sheets on end, and carry them around easily. I can rotate the plywood sheet end for end and not hit the ceiling. I can stand 8' boards upright against the wall (I have to set 10' boards at an angle, or lay them flat). And, I can easily maneuver 7 foot high cabinets (pantry, armoires, etc.).

I used low profile T8 Fluorescent lights on the ceiling, electronic ballast, instant on, no flicker, good in cold weather. They only stick down about 4 inches from the ceiling.

I used garage door tracks that sit a little closer to the ceiling, but they still stick down about 1-1/2 feet from the ceiling. I've banged them with a board once or twice, but since they only stick out 9' into my 28' garage, they're not usually a problem.

I used 2x6 studs with R19 insulation, and a 4000 watt Cadet "Hot One" electric heater will just keep it warm in there when I need heat. It's a little undersized for the space (I should have about 6500 watts for my

650 sq/ft), but I don't need the heat very often, and 67-68 degrees feels really warm when I'm busy working.

Anthony

Reply to
HerHusband

Ok, I've got ceiling envy now... *g*

If it's affordable, I'd go 10'..... If you work with sheet goods, picture flipping over a sheet of plywood and catching a corner on a light fixture...

My work area is divided in 2 areas, one with 7' ceiling and the other with 9' or so at the peak.. I find myself stepping outside the garage door to handle 8' tow-bys and sheet goods...

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Brian.. I know that you don't need help rationalizing, but use the same method that we use to justify tools... $1,000 over the life of the shop, minus the cost of light fixtures and stuff that you won't be breaking.. *lol*

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

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