Should I able to do this with a band saw?

Hi,
I have a 50 year old 10" beaver table saw powered by a 1/2 hp motor. The resaw max is about 8".
I had a piece of 1x6 pine that I wanted to resaw. So I put in a resaw bandsaw blade and made sure everything was square. When I tried to resaw the pine I only got about 1" through the wood. The blade was really slowing things down and I thought I was moving the wood pretty slow.
I tried the same thing with a 1x4" piece of oak and still I could not resaw it. I was able to do a 1x3" piece of pine.
So my question is, should I be able to resaw with this set up or my difficulties related to the motor? Would changing to a 1 or 1.5hp motor solve this?
Thanks
Alex
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Here's my thoughts. I'm not speaking from any real experience, but just some observations I've noticed with my saw (14" Delta). BTW, do you have a bandsaw or a tablesaw?
1) What blade are you using for re-sawing? A typical resaw blade has 3 teeth per inch. Less teeth and deeper gullet allows the wood to get carried away properly. Trying to make these cuts with a 16 tpi blade probably wouldn't work real well. 2) How sharp/new is your blade? Do you have another blade you can try? 3) Have you done anything to tune up your saw? How easy is to to turn the wheels when the motor is disconnected? If all the power is used up in just spinning the blade, there will be no power left for cutting wood. 4) I wouldn't really plan on doubling or tripling your saw's power. It's may not be designed to handle the extra torque that would be generated. If it was a regular thing you'd be doing, I'd sell this saw, and buy another one that can handle what you want to do. Course, you could figure you've got nothing to lose, and drop in the motor. If it works, great. If if twists the saw into a pretzel, you need to get a new saw anyway. :)
My $0.02 (CAD) Clint

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Hi,
sorry I have a band saw. I am using a new blade with 3 teeth per inch. I can try another one and see if that makes a difference.
When the motor is disconnected there is no problems turning the wheels.
I'd rather not sell the saw. It is just the right size for my small saw and I usually only use it to cut curved parts and on that it works well. I just thought I would try to see how it worked resawing wood.
Could you elaborate on the torque problem? If I put on a 1 hp motor running at the same speed where does the danger come into play. The whole saw is made from cast iron so it should take a lot of stress.
Thanks
Alex
Clint wrote:

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Does your saw look something like this? : <http://owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id &54> OWWM.com could sure use another Beaver bandsaw entry, if you're interested in posting some pictures.
Some really dumb questions:
Is the blade inside-out? Check the direction of the teeth.
Is the blade slipping on the tires? A 50 yr old bandsaw may well need new tires, check the condition of yours.
Are the guides dragging on the blade? Back the guides off and double-check.
Is the belt slipping / loose? Check your belt tension and examine the pullies to see if they're worn.
Are you sure of the pulley sizes? I've gotten a couple of saws that came to me with incorrectly sized motor pullies. This calculator can help you check: <http://www.owwm.com/Math/SFPM.asp
--
-Joe Wells

"Here stands baseball's perfect warrior. Here stands baseball's perfect knight."
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Hi,
sorry I have a band saw. I am using a new blade with 3 teeth per inch. I can try another one and see if that makes a difference.
When the motor is disconnected there is no problems turning the wheels.
I'd rather not sell the saw. It is just the right size for my small saw and I usually only use it to cut curved parts and on that it works well. I just thought I would try to see how it worked resawing wood.
Could you elaborate on the torque problem? If I put on a 1 hp motor running at the same speed where does the danger come into play. The whole saw is made from cast iron so it should take a lot of stress.
Thanks
Alex
Clint wrote:

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So, you put a bandsaw blade on a tablesaw. I see your problem.

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Is it a new blade? With a 1hp motor and a new blade I cut 6" of oak pretty easy, but it gradually deteriorates as the blade wears. Doesn't take too long for it to act as you describe. So, with 1/2" it would be difficult; with a dull blade impossible.
I normally resaw on my table saw. Much faster and easier than a band saw; just wastes a little more wood. And it is rather more dangerous; be very very careful!. Now that I have a bandsaw I leave a quarter inch web in the middle and knock that off on the bandsaw; before I used a handsaw.
If you have a larger motor I would certainly give it a try. You might not get enough power transmission to make it worthwhile, but if you have the motor...

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Snip

3 tpi max and it will still go slow. I had a similar set up and maple went slowly.
Keep in mind that resaw band saws are comonly being sold with 4+ hp motors. You might try still fewer teeth and the added HP would help.
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On Dec 31, 2:54 pm, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Let me suggest you get a copy of "the Band Saw Handbook" by Marek Duginske. It has a lot of information about the proper use of the bandsaw and very clear instructions on tuning and operating it. If you do much with your band saw it is money well spent.
Richard
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Hi,
I have a couple of books on tuning up a bandsaw and I have followed their instructions. I have checked the pulleys out and the speed is correct. The blade is on the correct way.
I would just like to know if doing what I am doing with a 1/2 hp motor is possible?
Alex
Richard wrote:

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Yes it is possible but it will be very slow. IIRC it tool me about 5-10 minutes for a couple of feet of 6" wide maple with a 1/2 hp saw and a new 3 tpi 1/2" blade. As Toller indicated, if you have a TS, it will be faster.
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On Mon, 01 Jan 2007 06:16:16 -0800, acolic wrote:

I wish that I could be more help, but I'm not on-site to see/hear/smell what's going on. My sense is that a 1/2 hp bandsaw with the right blade should be able to chew through 6" of pine. Even well into the 50's, the recommended motor for Delta's 14" bandsaw was 1/2 hp. They even offered the riser block back then. It is possible that your motor isn't developing its full power for some reason. If that's the case, you could probably put a 1 hp motor on it, but keep in mind the limitations of the machine. It's only a 10" saw after all and trying to push 6" of rock maple through it could put undo strain on its bearings, frame, and guides.
--
-Joe Wells

"Here stands baseball's perfect warrior. Here stands baseball's perfect knight."
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Exactly what happened at the 1" mark? If it cut fine for the first 3/4" and then stopped at 1", you may be feeding too fast - not allowing time for the sawdust to clear the gullets. If it gradually slows down, you may also have an alignment problem. What sort of fence are you using? A straight fence and a blade that "drifts" can cause increasing friction to stall your cut as the wood wedges itself between the blade and fence.
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Check to see if the belt on the pulleys is tight. If it is slipping, things can slow down.
Rick
Larry Kraus wrote:

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Hi,
I re-tuned the band saw and retightened the motor belt and I was able to resaw a 1x6.
It wasn't easy but I went slow it worked.
I think I'll try another blade and a 1 HP motor and see if it is easier.
Thanks
Rick wrote:

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