I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex than I want (probably done with a file, the back is convex too), and am afraid to touch it to even the 1000x stone.
I have a 220x stone with a cupped side, and cringe at removing material from it on the surface plate.
Hey... the grinder! Hmm, that has a pretty nice wheel on it, I'd hate to ruin it. Plus, no jig to hold the blade. I have an ebay blade that has a blue corner, maybe 3/32, that I have to remove, too.
Kind of sounds like the blade itself is cupped, like a board can become cupped from atmospheric moisture? Or is that called condensation?
In either case, don't bear down hard when sharpening, a little pressure yeah, but mostly let the stone do the work. Use your fingers to keep even pressure on both sides of the blade, otherwise it will skew. You want it 90º square on both corners. When finished honing on the finer grits and you're done, bring the blade back to
220 just to very slightly round the corners of the cutting edge. Ever so slightly though, and sideways, not top to bottom.
Definitely do it, it's no good otherwise.
Go to a junk shop with a back yard, find a thick piece of float glass and buy it, buy a pack of Norton aluminum oxide yellow paper (NOT a house name of standard garnet, brown/orange) and a can of 3M super 77 and do the 'scary sharp' thing, it'll work well to square your blades, and cheap. This is good to have, even if you have stones.
I don't mean to sound terse or blunt... I just... feel like a brick. Sorry.
Is it faster than sandpaper on a surface plate? (already have the surface plate, and a box of wet/dry 120x silicon carbide, and a can of adhesive... not that 120x is sufficient)
At this point (wherein I've already spent more than I want to spend on maintenance) I think a (diy) jig for the grinder should do it.
No, it's convex on both top and back (near the edge), and (of course) the edge. A result of whatever sharpening method was used on it before I got it.
Are you saying to run the blade over the stone on its narrow side?
Yeah I'm just pushing my stinginess to neurotic levels for the sake of the humor.
I'll do anything for laughs, even if I'm the only one laughing.
A Grade A surface plate is in my possession, but what does AlOx have over silicon carbide? The 120x doesn't seem to remove material as fast as the 220x waterstone.
As I said elsewhere, I think I just need to set up the grinder.
On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:37:18 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, Enoch Root quickly quoth:
Five to fifty. 'Nuff said?
Price is about 2 large boxes worth for a 2x6", 3 for a 3x8".
I prefer DMT over Ezelap. For a coarse set, pick up the HF set for $12 on sale. Then get fine and extra fine diamond plates for honing. Finish off with a stropping of Veritas green goop on leather.
Yes, at least twice as much metal removal at the same grit.
Newp. Getchiz wunna them belt sandahs instead. Much handier.
I will consider the coarse set. It doesn't lose its flatness?
That might get me back to where I am with the 220x waterstone.
I'm going to resurface that tonight (two monthes, four plane blade rebevels, three #71 router blade reshapes, one marking knife shaping, and a 2"x1/4" O-1 Starret plane blade bevel later.) With my left hand (the right wrist is sore.)
Aykshully, Artist Guy (the one I got the oxy-gas welder from) wants to rid himself of a jet 10" disk and 6" belt sander for $250... and a jet floor drill press.
I'm resisting the sander, I'm resisting. I can do without it. I like a dust-free workspace.
On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 19:53:32 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, Enoch Root quickly quoth:
Dunno, I don't have one yet. But they shouldn't. I believe they're made the same way DMT does theirs, with metal poured around the diamond paste. They should remain as flat as they're built. Just don't sharpen 500 same size bits/irons on the same square inch of plate in one month.
No, diamond gives you at least double the metal removal of stone. That's why you have to be careful and only use the coarser stones when absolutely necessary. Honing on a fine diamond takes just a few seconds to get the same return a waterstone gives you in several minutes. Few things in life surpass the efficiency of a diamond plate.
You could use the cheapie diamond plate to flatten the waterstone.
Got a dust collector or shop vac and set of earmuffs/plugs? Just Do It! And send me that drill press. I'll trade ya for my HF 8" monster, a whopping $39.99 value!
I think I might try it for roughing out the bevel... I don't have any issues with the finer stones for now. The rough ones, though, lose material too fast, cup if you are using it on narrow blades, and aren't fast enough to do a lot of rough work.
I didn't let the stone dry completely before rubbing it on a sheet of
120x spray-glued on a granite plate (last night). The paper loaded up fast, but it was still effective. Plus I could use the heel of my palms, so no pain.
It's a nice drill press: the speed is variable to 60rpm (I recall him saying) which is very nice for working with steel. I will prefer that over the sander, but he talks about dumping the sander more. Still on warranty, but too small for his needs, blah.
it's not too flat to begin with, and the plastic board the diamond plate is adhered to is pretty flexible. but you're not trying to do fine work with it, just hog metal off to get the bevel to shape. think of the HF stones as the step after the bench grinder. lay it on a flat surface and give it a go. the grits are coarse enough to shape up a chisel fast, but the edge it will leave isn't really ready for use.
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