Should have got the !$!#@ cheap stones


I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex than I want (probably done with a file, the back is convex too), and am afraid to touch it to even the 1000x stone.
I have a 220x stone with a cupped side, and cringe at removing material from it on the surface plate.
Hey... the grinder! Hmm, that has a pretty nice wheel on it, I'd hate to ruin it. Plus, no jig to hold the blade. I have an ebay blade that has a blue corner, maybe 3/32, that I have to remove, too.
Oh heck, I'll use the side.
er (learning to not squeeze the stone so hard)
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Enoch Root wrote:

Ditch the stone and get a diamond-crusted block, Ezy-lap or whatever. Stays flat, cuts as fast as a grit several grades coarser.
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Clifford Heath wrote:

What he said.
I prefer diamond plates for back lapping and edge shaping, with 4000 and 8000 waterstones for finishing and touching up.
Barry
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Clifford Heath wrote:

How much is that in boxes of sandpaper? :)
Is it faster than sandpaper on a surface plate? (already have the surface plate, and a box of wet/dry 120x silicon carbide, and a can of adhesive... not that 120x is sufficient)
At this point (wherein I've already spent more than I want to spend on maintenance) I think a (diy) jig for the grinder should do it.
er
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On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:37:18 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,

Five to fifty. 'Nuff said?
Price is about 2 large boxes worth for a 2x6", 3 for a 3x8".
I prefer DMT over Ezelap. For a coarse set, pick up the HF set for $12 on sale. Then get fine and extra fine diamond plates for honing. Finish off with a stropping of Veritas green goop on leather.

Yes, at least twice as much metal removal at the same grit.

Newp. Getchiz wunna them belt sandahs instead. Much handier.
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Larry Jaques wrote:

I will consider the coarse set. It doesn't lose its flatness?

That might get me back to where I am with the 220x waterstone.
I'm going to resurface that tonight (two monthes, four plane blade rebevels, three #71 router blade reshapes, one marking knife shaping, and a 2"x1/4" O-1 Starret plane blade bevel later.) With my left hand (the right wrist is sore.)

Aykshully, Artist Guy (the one I got the oxy-gas welder from) wants to rid himself of a jet 10" disk and 6" belt sander for $250... and a jet floor drill press.
I'm resisting the sander, I'm resisting. I can do without it. I like a dust-free workspace.
er
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Resistance is futile! Besides, it'll be a good excuse to get a dust collector too.
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Tim and Steph wrote:

Or a wet/dry vac. I need that anyway. But I've already got a metal lathe and a metal bandsaw on the list. And space. Need a bigger one.
I was hoping Santa'd send me one. But I got a dog kit and a IOU for a dog, instead. Hope my cat understands.
er
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On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 19:53:32 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,

Dunno, I don't have one yet. But they shouldn't. I believe they're made the same way DMT does theirs, with metal poured around the diamond paste. They should remain as flat as they're built. Just don't sharpen 500 same size bits/irons on the same square inch of plate in one month.

No, diamond gives you at least double the metal removal of stone. That's why you have to be careful and only use the coarser stones when absolutely necessary. Honing on a fine diamond takes just a few seconds to get the same return a waterstone gives you in several minutes. Few things in life surpass the efficiency of a diamond plate. </gushing>

You could use the cheapie diamond plate to flatten the waterstone.

Got a dust collector or shop vac and set of earmuffs/plugs? Just Do It! And send me that drill press. I'll trade ya for my HF 8" monster, a whopping $39.99 value!
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On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 06:14:02 -0800, Larry Jaques opined:

Should we qualify this with "of the same grit?" In practice I find that my 220x water stone takes metal off faster than my 325x DMT.
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On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 16:02:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,

It was described that way in the original email.
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Larry Jaques wrote:

My wrist is throbbing at the very idea.

I think I might try it for roughing out the bevel... I don't have any issues with the finer stones for now. The rough ones, though, lose material too fast, cup if you are using it on narrow blades, and aren't fast enough to do a lot of rough work.

I didn't let the stone dry completely before rubbing it on a sheet of 120x spray-glued on a granite plate (last night). The paper loaded up fast, but it was still effective. Plus I could use the heel of my palms, so no pain.

It's a nice drill press: the speed is variable to 60rpm (I recall him saying) which is very nice for working with steel. I will prefer that over the sander, but he talks about dumping the sander more. Still on warranty, but too small for his needs, blah.
er
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Enoch Root wrote:

it's not too flat to begin with, and the plastic board the diamond plate is adhered to is pretty flexible. but you're not trying to do fine work with it, just hog metal off to get the bevel to shape. think of the HF stones as the step after the bench grinder. lay it on a flat surface and give it a go. the grits are coarse enough to shape up a chisel fast, but the edge it will leave isn't really ready for use.
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Kind of sounds like the blade itself is cupped, like a board can become cupped from atmospheric moisture? Or is that called condensation?
In either case, don't bear down hard when sharpening, a little pressure yeah, but mostly let the stone do the work. Use your fingers to keep even pressure on both sides of the blade, otherwise it will skew. You want it 90 square on both corners. When finished honing on the finer grits and you're done, bring the blade back to 220 just to very slightly round the corners of the cutting edge. Ever so slightly though, and sideways, not top to bottom.

Definitely do it, it's no good otherwise.

Go to a junk shop with a back yard, find a thick piece of float glass and buy it, buy a pack of Norton aluminum oxide yellow paper (NOT a house name of standard garnet, brown/orange) and a can of 3M super 77 and do the 'scary sharp' thing, it'll work well to square your blades, and cheap. This is good to have, even if you have stones.

I don't mean to sound terse or blunt... I just... feel like a brick. Sorry.
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AAvK wrote:

Too late. Woke up with a lame wrist.
Second night in a row rehabilitating old metal. (And the night before that the edge on my newly hardened 2"x1/4" home job.)
er
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AAvK wrote:

No, it's convex on both top and back (near the edge), and (of course) the edge. A result of whatever sharpening method was used on it before I got it.

Are you saying to run the blade over the stone on its narrow side?

Yeah I'm just pushing my stinginess to neurotic levels for the sake of the humor.
I'll do anything for laughs, even if I'm the only one laughing.

A Grade A surface plate is in my possession, but what does AlOx have over silicon carbide? The 120x doesn't seem to remove material as fast as the 220x waterstone.
As I said elsewhere, I think I just need to set up the grinder.
er
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