"Shortening" 3/4" plywood cabinets

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wrote:

Yup... Festool was up first... decided to scroll to see if there was something else for which I was supposed to be looking.
John
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On Sunday, February 19, 2012 12:27:49 PM UTC-5, John Grossbohlin wrote:

That's what I would have guessed also, but the 50" is the only one that's discounted; so much so that it is actually the cheapest size from Rockler.
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I have in fact trimmed boxes of about 18X18 on my table saw simple by running them against the fence with the waste on the left of the blade. In your case, if there is no outfeed table I'd skip the table saw... Too much weight to try to juggle around on a running saw as the cut is completed. Bad things can happen!
Do you have a rip guide for your circular saw? My two Porter Cable saws (7 1/2" and 4 1/2") cut very nicely with the rip guides... I'd not hesitate to cut the bottom off cabinet boxes with either.
John
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On 2/14/2012 4:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

I assume this means setting the fence 24" (the intended finished height of the cabinets) to the right of the blade. I have to check. This might be more than the saw's capacity.

I'll bet. If there is indeed enough width to the table saw, I would in fact have an outfeed table.

That sounds like skill might be involved; to move the saw just right through the cut and offset any tendency it might have to curve toward the edge. I'd have to practice on scrap first.
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In your situation yes, set the fence to the desired finished height of 24". Come to think of it, I think my boxes were 24" too! If you put the waste to the right of the blade against the fence don't forget to adjust the fence to take the kerf into account, i.e., if the blade removes 1/8" of material set the fence to 2 7/8" to remove 3".

Practice is a good idea if you haven't used the rip guide previously. I've used rip guides on inexpensive saws that were horrible compared to my PC rip guides... You may find that your guide works great or it may be terrible in regards to how well it lets you maintain a good cut... test cuts is the best way to find that out.
John
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On 2/14/2012 3:42 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote: ...

I'd either do that or just get out the handsaw and be done...
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On 2/14/2012 2:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

As other's have noted, you can do it on a table saw, with a circular saw, and with a hand saw.
I'm with Leon on the Table Saw. I would not hesitate to make the cut on the table saw with an outfeed table, BUT, with the keeper part against the fence!
On either the circular saw, or with a table saw, if you're worried about the off cut binding (which can happen with either one), there is a very simple solution to that which makes it much safer all around:
Span the kerf cut on each side after it's made, with some scraps, hot glued to the _inside_ of the cabinet ... that will keep the cutoff 3" part from moving/flopping around on you as you make each subsequent cut.
Using the table saw, this is a safer method I've used a few times on tall boxes, as well as cutting large recycled plantation shutters down in size.
YMMV ...
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On 2/14/2012 5:08 PM, Swingman wrote:

I have to check the maximum cut width, or whatever it's called. My sense is that it might not be wide enough

That's exactly what I was worried about. Sounds like a good idea.
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On 2/15/2012 9:11 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Picture worth a dozen or so words:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods#5709436118163608578
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Circular saw with an edge guide, e.g. (Amazon.com product link shortened)

Looks like three setups from here, not six...

2 7/8", not 3" -- you forgot to account for the thickness of the kerf.

This is not Not NOT a good idea.

Any time you hear a little voice in the back of your head saying "this could be dangerous", LISTEN.
You're right, this could be dangerous. Real dangerous.
Is there some reason you can't set the fence at (height of box minus 3") from the blade, so that the box is on the fence side of the blade, and the waste on the free side?
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On 2/14/2012 5:28 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

As I mentioned elsewhere, that seemd like the kind of job that might require some "feel", feel I may not have yet.

There are three sides to cut on each of two boxes, so six repetitions of clamping on a guide, etc.

3" was just an approximate number I threw out for brevity, but thanks for the reminder anyway; I am capable of any number of silly mistakes.

Thank you for amplifying that "little voice"

The boxes are pretty tall, possibly too tall to fit between the blade and the furthest possible position of the fence (even at their cut-down, "finished" height). I'll have to check when I get a chance.
Thanks for the warnings. That's why I post here.
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You're right, it does take some "feel" but (a) not a lot, and (b) it's easily acquired. Practice on a few pieces of scrap, and you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly. The longer the guide surface, the easier it is to do.

Oh, right, duh. You did say two boxes. [...]

YW.
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On 2/14/2012 2:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

It sounds as if you have or have access to one of those little direct drive table saws with a dinky little table. I would not attempt the cut with one of these. If it is a real table saw with off feed and side tables, it would be my first choice. It sounds to me that you may be better served with the circular saw. One of the big problems will be splintering of the finish cut as the blade teeth come up. You will need to cut through the finish veneer with a utility knife or similar before cutting. It would be a prime candidate for making a circular saw edge guide similar to this: http://womeninwoodworking.com/wiw/Story/Circular_Saw_Straight_Edge_7707.aspx
You don't need an 8 footer, but the concept is the same. Spend your time on layout, scoring, and clamping or tacking your edge guide. Good luck.
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Screw or clamp a scrap straight edged board/strip, as a circular saw guide, onto the waste side and cut it.
Sonny
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On 2/14/2012 5:24 PM, Sonny wrote:

I've done this several times - on my dinky little toy table say.
It _usually_ goes ok... But if it grabs it's gonna be ugly.
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On 2/14/2012 7:51 PM, Richard wrote:

You have a table say!! I have no say at the table. :!)
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Do you mind your manners at the table?
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On 2/15/2012 8:18 AM, Leon wrote:

Sometimes my fingers don't pay attention to the keyboard...
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On 2/15/2012 9:51 AM, Richard wrote:

That is just one of my problems, then the spell checker wants to change the story... ;~)
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On 2/14/2012 6:09 PM, DanG wrote:

It's bigger than that; a seventies-era Craftsman, on legs, with wings.
If it is a real table saw with off feed and side

There's a separate table that looks to be exactly the same height. It could be put to use as either, but not both.
It sounds to me that you may be

I've got an edge guide. It consists of two 4' pieces of aluminum extrusion. I've used it a fair amount and I'm comfortable with it. But reclamping the guide 6 times, especially as the box shpe doesn't lend itself to clamping, sounds like a pain.
I think I will measure the table saw capacity first. If it is too small, I may buy one of those guides with a built-in clamping system and use it with my circular saw.
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