Shop Walls/Ceiling

I'm starting with an unfinished basement with insulation in the walls. A few questions:
- Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
- I'm leaning towards a suspended ceiling, probably with insulation for sound dampening. Any thoughts/experience/recommendations along these lines?
Thanks in advance, Al
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No, it is because I'm too lazy to finish it. Just could not see the added benefit in my (garage) shop, but I did paint it.

It should be OK, but if noise is a particular problem, thee are specialty products for better sound dampening. I've never used them and I have no idea how effective they are. IIRC, Owens Corning has some stuff on their web page about it. Ed
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wrote:

well over 10 years and I just never got past the insulation... TO ME IT IS FINISHED !
Bob Griffiths
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Al wrote:

For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to put up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want to have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and studs just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing leak). For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or raceway.
Darin
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OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place ? No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good in a wood workshop.
Darin wrote:

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And if you leave it raw, it'll be saturated with sawdust in no time, just waiting to drop into whatever you're finishing at the time.
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That's how I did mine (T-11) and I think it's great. It has all the benefits of plywood or OSB, but looks much better IMHO. The texture breaks down the loud grain pattern of fir, and the vertical lines add interest. In my case, with only 8' walls, I left the ceiling open. I find it is cooler, feels more open, it's easier to store stuff up there, and my trusses were not designed to carry enough load anyway.
It wouldn't be easy to take a sheet down to work on utilities, but it could be done.
-- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.billpounds.com

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Didn't use T11, but did use 1/4" vinyl-coated hardboard for exactly the reason you cite above. Look under the "Shop Pictures" link on my web page: <www.mklange.cnc.net>

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snipped-for-privacy@noserver.com says...

Where can I find out more about T11 wood paneling? My initial google attempts don't seem to be yielding much.
Thanks, Al
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Try T1-11 or T111
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I'm not certain of the correct name, but I'm certain I got it wrong. It also comes with the grooves on 8"ctrs and on 4" ctrs and the name implies that feature, as well as different thicknesses. I used the 5/8" stuff. Just visit your local borg and ask for exterior siding in sheets. They all carry it.
-- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.billpounds.com
says...

to
raceway.
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@earthlink.netxx says...

Thanks - your shop looks to be a Rolls Royce in my book!
- Al
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