Shop Vac Switch not working.

The switch in my shop vac is a DPST switch, when I test it with a continuity tester only one side is making a connection. I don't know a lot about switches but i am assuming both sides should have a connection?
Secondly, just because i'm curious - why don't they just use a SPST switch?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
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On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 2:37:35 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@beatstudios.com wrote:

They could have, but they may have been trying to make it "safe," While you might have to modify the mounting, you can replace the switch with any switch that will carry the load.
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On 08/24/2016 2:37 PM, snipped-for-privacy@beatstudios.com wrote:

Well, if you're measuring the right contacts, yes... :)
Are both pairs of contacts in use?

Presuming it's a 120V vac and not 240V, then there's only real reason to switch the hot leg; excepting, of course, if it doesn't have a polarized plug, either wire could be the hot one...so, they switch 'em both would be my best guess w/o further details.
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My shop vac is 120V and it's switch died about 10 yrs ago. I replaced it with a standard wall switch and it's still going strong.
Art
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On 08/26/2016 3:55 PM, Artemus wrote: ...

Sure, interrupting either leg is functional; just not as safe as both...as noted, unless it's a polarized plug, it's 50-50 as to which will be the "hot" side any given time...
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Not the drivel of another Safety Nazi. The original switch was SPST and I replaced it with an SPST using the original wiring. The plug is a 3 prong one. Art
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On 08/27/2016 10:45 PM, Artemus wrote: ...

The posting to which you responded was answering the OP's original question of "why use a 2-pole instead of single-pole switch"?
Yes, granted, it only takes breaking one connection to make the switch work; one _presumes_ there was a reason the original manufacturer of the vac the OP has used the 2P; the likely reason for that is it uses a nonpolarized plug.
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On 8/27/2016 11:01 PM, dpb wrote:

Could it be for the 220V versions also?
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On 08/27/2016 10:58 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Possibly, OP didn't ever provide the additional info...
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On Friday, August 26, 2016 at 4:02:33 PM UTC-4, Artemus wrote:

Isn't it a pain to carry the wall around with you when you need to use the shop vac?
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On 08/28/2016 12:02 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

where you are using the vacuum, you may be interested in this suggestion.
The switch is for my Shop Vac QPS10. I found the manual by searching for Shop Vac schematics and manual
Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor Mouser #: 540-LRA32H2FBBNN Mfr. #: LRA32H2FBBNN Desc.: Rocker Switches & Paddle Switches DPST BLK 10A QC TERM RoHS: RoHS Compliant
It cost me about $10 to get two switches (One to install and a spare) About a $1 a piece for the switch and $8 shipping and handling.
It snaps into the vacuum, but when I got it in, I realized I had it backwards, from the markings on the sweeper.
So; on my vacuum if it is off, you do the logical and push OFF to turn it on, It it is off you push On to turn it off. I keep explaining to my grandson, why would you push on when it is obvious the vacuum is off.
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On Sunday, August 28, 2016 at 1:56:39 PM UTC-4, keith snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net wrote:

A reversed switch on a wet-dry vac might not be anything more than confusing, but I sure wouldn't leave it that way on a router or any other tool that could hurt your grandson.
Why didn't you switch it back once you realized it was backward? Just curious...
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On 08/28/2016 7:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

While I said it just snapped in, It took a lot of fiddling to get the wires and switch positioned correctly so the switch "Easily" snapped in.
In other words since there was no safety concerns I was to lazy to spend another 5 minutes getting the switch out plus another 15 to 20 minutes getting wires and switch positioned so I could "easily" pop it back in.
I also considered the possibility of damaging the switch or the housing getting it out to re position it. (The old switch failed because it was in pieces.)
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On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 12:37:31 snipped-for-privacy@beatstudios.com wrote:

you have not said if the switch is working or not
if it is not working why not dismantle the switch and inspect it
if it is working then
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On Sunday, August 28, 2016 at 8:45:23 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:

Did you happen to notice the subject line of this thread?
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On 8/28/2016 9:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

DOH!
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On 8/24/2016 3:37 PM, snipped-for-privacy@beatstudios.com wrote:

Put the hot wires on the working side of the switch. Put the neutral wires together with a wire nut. Clean up the shop.
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On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 9:11:11 AM UTC-4, Larry Kraus wrote:

Eliminate the switch and use a remote.
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/images/g/yR4AAOSwxN5WVrZL/s-l225.jpg
I have a mini shop vac in the cabinet under my miter saw. The remote is velcro'd to the saw. The hose comes though the side of the cabinet and attaches to the saw's dust port. I also have an extra hose that I use to extend the shop vac hose for quick cleanup of the work bench, drill press, etc. The extension hose also reaches the dust port on my band saw.
I got the vac for $10 on Craigslist. It sure does help to keep shop cleaner.
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On Mon, 29 Aug 2016 07:35:47 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

I glued a magnet to a remote for my DC and keep it stuck to the side of my Unisaur table.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/dustacces.htm
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