Yeah, I got that part (mine does have a 2x4"-to-6" 'Y' on its input),
but my point is that 4" DC parts aren't the same size as 4" PVC (and I
don't think drainage PVC is the same as waste PVC pipe) and indeed not
all 4" DC ports are exactly the same size (my saw and planer don't
take the same fittings). Flex hose makes up for a lot of sins but
it's also a lousy duct. To get things to fit I end up with 4x as many
parts as I need, just to get something that sorta works. Or not.
Hmmm....ok you're telling me I'm having (yet another) senior moment,
I've not rearranged or added anything for so long I couldn't even tell
you any more what I actually used (I think it's just standard Sch 40
PVC, though for the trunks/distribution lines) or where any of the end
adapter fittings, etc., came from originally; it all moved from TN back
to the farm when came back and I'm pretty sure at least some of the
original pieces predate the move from VA to TN in '78.
I don't _recall_ any particular difficulties, though...then again,
that's not surprising (not remembering something, that is, not that
there weren't difficulties...)
Got me, but things never seem to go tougher like they're supposed to.
On the way home tonight I bought a 4" thin wall (drainage stuff) elbow to
play. It's *way* too big to fit anything connected to the DC. It looks like
PVC pipe has a 4" ID, the same as 4" flex hose.
How to get from the DC to a 4" piece of PVC pipe? They make PVC to DC
fittings, but that gets me from pipe to flex hose. I'd like to go solid pipe
from my DC to separator (three right angles and a little pipe) and from there
out, but can't figure out how to do it without flex somewhere in the middle.
OK, I'll try to see if I can ascertain what I did use...I don't have any
flex except some metallic flex. It'll have to be some time next week as
planning on being gone over weekend...
What's your actual actual DC port dimensions you need to fit?
They're all over the place. Flex tubing and clamps make up for a lot of sins
but trying to connect anything solid to the things is iffy. I've even had
problems with quick disconnects, making them nearly useless.
Unisaw = 3.88" O.D.
DW735 = 3.95" O.D.
DC = 3.93" O.D. (4" port didn't measure the 6")
4" Thinwall PVC elbow = 4.26"
Some miscellaneous DC fittings:
4" to 2-1/2" reducer = 3.97"
90 degree elbow = 3.91"
DC - PVC connector = 3.93" O.D. 4.36" I.D.
"Y" = 4.00"
Blast gate = 3.97"
Male Coupling = 4.00"
OK, I see what I did...man, I'm apparently aged... :(
I _DID_ have some similar troubles but had totally forgotten what I had
done. It's a combination of things including a couple wraps of metallic
tape on the smaller OD fittings but the primary solution was to take the
PVC fitting to the saw and slice a couple kerfs in it so it could be
compressed. On the tablesaw (PM-66) I then used a bead of caulk and pan
head sheet metal screws to put it in place and compress it to the port.
It's not absolutely air tight, but not bad. Similar tricks elsewhere.
The other thing I used I don't know where to recommend to try to get but
it works pretty well if you can find (and afford) it. In a former life
I did online coal analyzer engineering support at coal mines, prep
plants and utilities. In the prep plants I found flex metal duct in 4-,
5-, and 6-inch sizes and managed to acquire quite a bit of cutoffs. It
serves where you've used the plastic flex w/ a similar fitting trick
like on the PVC (sometimes shrink, sometimes gain a little). Another
thing I've used for smaller ports is similar but cheaper is the air
cleaner aspirator hose off the farm tractor -- it's readily available at
any Deere or other farm supply in various sizes altho not sure up to 4"
I don't have any idea what vendor the metal flex I have is; it has no
discernible markings and it's been 20 years nearly and it was scavenged
or "donated" rather than purchased. The link here is similar stuff...
But, I'll repeat that the biggest trick was that I just modified the
fittings, particularly PVC to suit and splitting them to allow to
constrict them was the biggest thing. Since they just sit there and I
didn't disconnect at that point when moved, I'd completely forgotten
about what I'd actually done...
On 04 Jun 2010 04:39:43 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote the following:
I've never seen 6" macaroni (diameter OR length), so that must be the
All together now, guys: "BUT YOU'D BETTER GROUND IT!" <schnicker>
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor
the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin
But why? Why should I ground the dust collector? It's not like it's
going to ionize the dust cloud and set the shop on fire right???????????
I did ground the planer dust collection chute... after the 3rd board the
static shocks got to be too annoying.
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
If you don't plan to have available at least 8 ft in front and behind
the table saw and a minimum of 4 ft to the left of the blade when saw
is in use, sooner or later it will come back to bite you in the arse.
I see all sorts of answers :-)
I'd make the tool bench 2 to 3x longer. And deeper.
Consider what might be used on each machine.
A 3' disk being .... or a 24 / 36 " long ...
I think I'd swap the bench with the wood lathe.
I'd have more room to 'jump' backwards out of the way or step back...
A corner might trap more chips as well.
More closing storage. Lots of dust - even with a collector.
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
On 6/3/2010 8:18 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
I am hoping to move into a shop later this year that will be marginally
smaller than your shop but I still plan to keep every thing on mobile bases.
I'll store most everything around the perimeter of the room in no particular
order and roll the machine out as needed. The dust collector and machines
that will work in any location will likely not be moved much but I will
still be bringing my wife's car in at night.
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